pleasant

I do wonder what the 'law' is regarding first generation cordless stuff and the OE support and supply of repair parts. Had a guy in recently with a Toro multi tool system...one battery and charger being used in chainsaw, grass trimmer, hedge trimmer, etc. Wanted a replacement battery.......actually two, so he had a spare. The original battery was messing about- hence why the replacement required. Money wasn't the issue for him. Supply was. He has trawled the 'net' with no luck. Came to me as his closest main dealer......contacted Toro. "Sorry obsolete" was the response. "We only produced that machine to take that battery for two years- latest newer model takes a diffferent battery and not interchangeable" I told Toro how disappointed this customer would be to hear that. I rung him to explain I couldn't help and I asked him how old the kit was......he said it's just over two years old. 800 quids worth of gear...useless as cannot get a battery for it. More landfill. Green???? Not on your life.

Genuine Husqvarna pistons and rings are now obsolete. You should be able to find some aftermarket suppliers though. I would do a compression test, and (if you have the equipment) a leak down test before assuming it is piston and rings etc.

Stihl 123.......He needs a WSM not an IPL. Here you go: Manual covers both pre AV and AV systems (see section 8 ) https://f01.justanswer.com/mr2cycle/00ec7dbc-1b68-4744-8943-6eea80b25430_STIHL+034%2C036%2C036QS.pdf

The bar rail tool is designed to repair the top flaring if someone had used the saw with a dull chain and lent on the bar to get the chain to cut. Obviously wear caused by a loss of steel isn't going to be cured. The Oregon tool we use can go down to the full depth of the gullet- other tools won't.

Excess grease being pushed out through the blade seals illustrates more grease is a waste of time and money- but with blown seals it will also allow debris to be dragged back into the gearbox, which is something you definitely don't want. It's a seal for a reason.....the name gives it away.

No manufacturer recommends this at all. And in all my years of repairing machinery, neither have I. This quote from a few years ago on here, sums it up quite nicely and is the correct approach: GardenKit Veteran Member 5.2k Location: Devon Posted February 18, 2013 Take the cover off any hedge trimmer gear case and you will find the grease stuck to the casing, but when its warm it will flow back to where its needed as long as there is enough of it. The casing should ideally be no more than half full. Lithium EP grease is fine. Quote Independent Garden Machinery dealer and Aspen Service Centre in Devon

Yes they do

Unless I've misunderstood, California as a state is only 172 years old...not 400

Financialy better off.......giving free repair advice doesn't pay too well. 😅

Hmmmm.....you lost credibility there

We have a 'vintage' Oregon rail closing tool. Very handy Here's one in action (from about 30 seconds in)

My advice would be to look at each of those items on an individual basis for excess wear and/or damage rather than a blanket automatic replacement. If a guy came in and asked us to replace a sprocket, he would be a bit miffed if when we handed it back we had automatically fitted a new bar and chain as a matter or course. We would only replace those additional items if they were worn beyond what we could consider efficient and importantly safe- and that would only be after contacting the customer to advise. In your case, I would do the same.

My wife's quite interested in a deep grind actually

A pro user said to me the other day...problem is with cordless it's like a light bulb- it either is working or it isn't and there's no warning that it isn't going to work next time either...which is a fair point. Like he said, at least with a petrol machine you can normally tell something isn't right before it goes bang completely and at least you have a chance to put it right before it does, and importantly you can arrange to use another machine on the next job instead of being let down without warning and costing you lost work on the day.

It's about control over you. Same as the way cars are going.....full of electronics so they can trace you if needs be, and to stop the great unwashed going anywhere, they can turn the power off at will. If there's a war in the future, the enemy can target the power supply and we are fooked. Sure, the smart will get a generator to re-charge their batteries for their garden stuff, but the majority won't. The state can decide when you can use your tools, car etc. Phones now are nothing more than a personal tracking device, and the government encourage everything to be done on them now....I wonder why? It's coming.......all under the guise of the green agenda. Fools

yeah...mine started coming home late, then wouldn't answer the phone when I called. Absolute nightmare! 😁

Yup.. Very true. And fair enough.

Yes, i was obviously referring to cold compression readings.....i didnt realise in your post i was responding to, that you weren"t

Like I said, not all esso stations, are selling enthanol free e5. As per that press release

Briggs and honda single cylinder 4 strokes are typically around 80psi compression, 2-strokes are knackered if they only have 80psi.

Ethanol is naturaly hygroscopic....which means it acts like a sponge in the atmosphere and absorbs moisture from it. Particularly when stored. E10 is ten percent ethanol and is recommended to be used within 30 days of purchase, e5...5 percent ethanol is longer, but a use by date it approx 6 to 7 weeks. After these times the fuel deteriorates rapidly, can go back to its raw state and absorb moisture

PS.....I don't think he means drilling into the top of the cylinder either! Will improve flow, but you will have eff all compression🤣

Absolutely correct, but not all esso stations sell it in that format so be careful, but essentially a large percentage do. So, yes you can get esso premium which is ethanol free and thats the stuff to go for

When i explain to my customers their issue is water in their fuel mix....and because the fuel pick up is at the lowest point of the tank, with water being heavier than petrol, the engine is trying to start on water, they normally think I'm making up and dont beleive me or they say they havent used it in the rain, so how did it get there. I have a varied selection of glass jars that i keep a sample of the fuel i remove from customers machines to show them....plus as a picture paints a thousand words I have a glass cabinet on my reception with examples of gummed up and or rusty carbs, perished fuel lines and clogged fuel filters we have removed, so customers can see for themselves whilst I work out their invoices.