pleasant

My opinion on sharpening devices, they all tend to work (some better than others) IF the operator knows what they are doing and how to get the desired effect. Bit of a dark art chain sharpening, and even a lot of my pro users don't know how to do it correctly with or without the best devices available.

I'm a 9-5er with a personal pension which is now fooked and has been for sometime. I'm near 60 and cannot afford to retire on the projections I am getting. I am lucky as I have just had an inheritance, which if I don't invest it will just be worth a fraction when or if I can retire, so I have to do something with it, so I will be looking at purchasing a small property to rent....to be fair I am only after a capital gain, rather than any huge profit from rental income. This, will have to be my pension now. It's not right, and I suppose I am in a fortunate situation, but even us regular man in the street people have to think about how we will support ourselves in a few years- not just the Jeremy Hunts of this world

Don't let it get to you, he's a wind up merchant

Here?

2-stroke should 4-stroke to a degree when not under load, then like you say, clear their throats under load. That's why manufacturers state a bar and chain should always be fitted, or a head fitted to a brush cutter- all adds a degree of load when tuning.

The one's I prefer are the 'cordless' ones- ie ones that don't need to be connected to the ht lead for a pulse. Saves hassle having to access the lead, but they are more expensive. My genuine Husky one is my go to. My back up is the tiny tech, which does need connecting to the ht lead, but is very good, and reasonably priced although the refresh time is a bit slower, than some deared ones. Here's the tiny tech. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Meter-Tachometer-Small-Engine/dp/B072KPKNT9 Here's the husky one, which you can use with or without being connect to the ht: Husqvarna TACHOMETER 502711401 WWW.WILLISANDGRABHAM.CO.UK Tachometer (Rev Counter) hend held ideal for small workshop or garage.

Difficult to tune, doesn't idle well- either stalls or chain moves too much. Indicates an air leak to me resulting in leaning of the mix, which can cause all those issue. Set it on idle- high idle if you can and get a can of brake cleaner or carb cleaner and gently spray around the flywheel area, clutch area and the carb area, but avoid spraying anywhere directly near the filter intake as it will give a false reading. If you have a leak then the engine will stall out or rev up independent of the throttle. When you spray near the area with the leak. Try that before stripping it down, as it can save a lot of hunting.

Hmm.....just watched your video and I admire your enthusiasm, but riding a motorbike with all that stuff on you seems a recipe for an accident before you've even arrived.

At my age I can only dream now of waking up like your gloves.

Well she was with me, so maybe it's just you. 😅

Yup. Max recommended bar length on one of those is 14" Re, the choke lever jumping up. If you remove the filter top cover you will see the lever is a black plastic affair which is the width of the back of the machine. One end is held in the body by a circular hole for the black plastic rod to locate into and the other end clips in. These have a habit of unclipping so the lever is just floating around. This could be just your problem, but combined with that is a brass coloured earthing strip which also keeps tension on the black choke lever to stop it flapping around and keep it in position. The saw may have ended up in the bin for this 'problem' It's a simple fix though, if the brass earthing strip is incorrectly located underneath the plastic choke lever rod or has become distorted out of shape so doesn't apply pressure to the choke lever it will need relocating correctly and maybe bending slightly back into shape.The brass strip need to be located on the top side of the choke lever to exert downward pressure- it also needs to earth on the earth wire which slides into the choke lever when the lever is in the full upward off position. Bit difficult to explain....best thing to do is go to your friendly video sharing site at search for stihl ms180 choke lever....the ms170 is the same, and the 171 and 181 are very similar if you can't find a video of the 180

The issue here, is if we listened to all groups who complian about the environment, we simply wouldn't have any way of heating or producing electricity. No matter what options are available, there will always be protests. No to nuclear- too expensive, too dangerous, cannot easily dispose of the waste products No to coal and oil- coal- emissions and because they are fossil fuels No to burning materials such as wood- again because of emissions No to gas, because of fracking and supply No to wind, because people don't want their view spoilt and the materials cannot be recycled efficiently So we have to do something....because you simply cannot keep everybody happy. I just wish the government would be honest and tell people how it is, rather than thinking, being honest costs votes, when in reality I believe it would be the opposite.

Have you tested it for those 20 minutes with the fuel cap loose? If not, try that and see if it continues to run on

I always have them in after being purchased at screwfix......can't get any bits for them through my suppliers and technical support and info is zero, so I don't bother touching them

From my experience of four stroke hand helds, the main thing that is overlooked is regular checking of the oil level in the sump. Even more critical in handhelds as they are thrown around at different angles, more so, than say a mower.

👍😃

You're not good at making friends much are you? 🤣

Main dealer, and have been for various franchises over the years.

I'm afraid some of us have to. Having an 'open air' workshop and showroom isn't the most practical option. 😁

When you can earn £90 a day just stacking shelves in tescos thanks to the annual increase in minimum wage, which just shunts hourly rate increases further up the food chain to offset the base rate increase.....then £150 a day for a skilled person with all the outlay and running costs of equipment is cheap nowadays Just as long as you have enough customers willing to pay at least that figure.... but, should be more really

No worries.....my invoice will follow in due course. 😁

I would hazzard a guess its a bearing issue. Either crankshaft either end or possibly the clutch drum bearing. All three bearings are designed to keep the crankshaft in line. If a bearing is failing it can cause end float in the crank and can cause the crank to rotate elliptically. If you grab the flywheel can you move it side to side up and down? This will indicate your issue. Removing the recoil will allow the crank to move off its designated line thriugh the engine. Re fitting the recoil will line everything up again and restrict this 'off centre' movement and could cause the issue you have.

There arent casing screws located behind the flywheel...its a different typre of casing compared to a blower.

?? Thought he said it was fine once recoil was off

Stihl handeld blowers are prone to that. Had several machine given to me to dispose of because a customer has done 'self diagnosis' and tells me the engine is seized and they just want to buy a new one. 😇