pleasant

Any efco saw listed for sale in the uk will be very old stock. Efco ceased to be a brand in the uk well over 5 years ago. The sister brand ...oleo-mac are the only current products sold within the uk now, and as most efco and oleo-mac products were near identical, the parent company in a cost saving exercise couldnt see any good reason offering an identical product, just in a different coloured plastic in the same market. Therefore....avoid any 'brand new' efco products that are still for sale in the uk market unless you want at least a 5 year old saw before youve even used it! All manufacturing dates are clearly marked on a white sticker next to the serial number, so if in doubt ask the seller the year of manufacture. Just worth noting.

Probably cost you £20 in labour time writing this thread. 😁

'Sustainability was a central design principle from the very beginning. The facility has been certified by the German Sustainable Building Council (DGNB) with the gold standard, recognising its energy-efficient construction and use of renewable energy systems. The combination of photovoltaic and a geothermal system significantly reduces fossil fuel use' But increases substantially the mining of Lithium, and coal (to produce the electricity to charge the batteries. Oh, and then the relatively short service life of a battery machine and zero re-sale value, and the lack of recycling of the plastics and batteries.

BR 800 recall_Document for website.pdf

48,000 apparently.

It's called an annular buffer. Part number 1116 790 9600. According to Stihl it is still available from any Stihl dealer at a cost of £7.90 including vat. Here's another schematic with part numbers: Stihl 020 Chainsaw (020T) Parts Diagram, Air Filter WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM Not that I promote DIY spare parts...obviously!

As a dealer, I am seeing an over all uptake of petrol handheld over that past 12 months in the region of 30% above what we were seeing over cordless. Having spoken to a lot of my pro users who are going back to petrol, their two main reasons are longevity of petrol and the re-sale value of petrol machines after the 3 years write down, which means the machines owe them nothing on the books,so anything they can get re-sale wise is all bunce money when sold on as a 3 year old machine. There is zero value in 3 year old cordless machinery being sold on....even more so if the original purchaser retains the battery for future use on new cordless machines. This is a major factor, particularly to the smaller operator who wishes to sell on used machinery when written down.

Please don't use the word 'strimmer' that is a brand name of Black & Decker...a bastardization of the words 'grass' and 'trimmer' Sorry, but a pet hate of mine......using the word strimmer is like using the word hoover to mean a vacuum cleaner.

I suspect the saw had been used for a while with the exhaust loose and the bolts rattling around in the threads in the head so widening the thread opening. Only belt and braces job would be to check the threads by manually screwing the bolts back in and seeing how far they have to screw in to stop sideways movement....if it's a fair way before you feel a good secure grip then you're best replacing the cylinder...you could try and tap it and use slightly larger bolts, but it's a very thin wall and would most likely fail again very soon.

Webb are NOT a manufacturer. It is now a name owned by Handy garden machinery who are a distributor. They purchased the Webb name from Bosch over 10 years ago, who owned it back then (Bosch also owned the Qualcast and Atco names. The Qualcast name was purchased by the group that owns Homebase and Argos, and the Atco name was also purchased by the Handy group. The tooling rights and production stock of the then Atco and Qualcast cylinder mowers, were sold off without the brand names to Allett, who now market the old Atco Qulacast cylinder mowers as their own products) to put on stickers that they could attach on cheap chinese imported landfill machines- they aren't even made to their specification, just whatever they can buy that can be painted Webb green and carry a sticker. Their products are no better than anything you buy at toolstation, b&q, argos or screwfix, although if you need spares you may have slightly better chance with a Webb then a titan or any other shite makes they peddle, and Handy did at least import some spares with these machines- and they are pretty generic.

As has already been said.....that Bosch (or any Bosch garden product) is only suitable for light domestic gardening work, in gardens that are already well maintained to a good well kept standard...not for getting an overgrown garden back into shape. You have the wrong tool for the job. You need a decent brush cutter (clues in the name) or a more heavy duty version of a brush cutter, called a clearing saw. Once you have it back into shape and you want to do some light edging work on inch long grass, then start using the Bosch (if it lasts)

If you find TDC by placing something like a sccrewdriver into the plug hole and rotate the engine until the screwdriver is at its furthest point protruding outwards, it it is on the correct stroke then both valves should be fully closed (so you can 'waggle' both rocker arms so they arent under any pressure) then you can adjust both valve clearances...on briggs OHV engines its between 0.004" and 0.008" this is a Honda clone, so may be different. If on the stroke where you have TDC only one vavle rocker can be 'waggled' then you will need to rotate the engine fully so the next stroke will close both valves.

We fit 3.5mm on that. Anything bigger and you cannot get enought winds on the pulley before the thicker cord overfills the pulley groove....you then run the risk of it also falling out the pulley. Anything thinner, such as 2.8mm, which for us is the next size down just means it won't last 5 minutes before it snaps....we generally fit that to the more light weight grass trimmers and hedge cutters 4mm we leave to fit some of the bigger clearing saws and the real old big chainsaws. 5mm is for generators

Have you flushed through the system? It's an old saw that has probably laid dormant for sometime. Chain oil left in areas such as the oil pump can solidify and clog it up over time and only allow a small amount..if any oil through. If this is the case, you would be better off draining the tank, removing the pump and drive and leaving overnight in a solvent solution, then blowing it all out and refitting

Sorry.......misread your post as grooming. Apologies.

For the sake of £5.10 and no screw holes in the bench I always use the stihl tool 5910 890 2800. 😉 The recommended grease is part number 0781 120 1109 which is described as a multi purpose grease, and specifically designed for hedge cutter gearboxes...but it is also the recommended stuff for clutch bearings from Stihl.

Jesus christ! Used to get a few weekend warriors recycling their old engine oil as bar oil, back in the day before answers were a lot easier to get to questions with google now ......didn't realise there's a few out there still doing it.

If you have any BP1 spare parts I will take the lot..and I can collect and pay cash. Don't need a receipt either.

Joking aside...I have actually been asked that over the years. More than once. Had a guy buy a saw from us..brought it back a week later saying it wasn't right as he was getting chain oil and crap all over himself....turned out he was left handed and was holding the rear handle with his left hand and the top wrap handle with his right and was in the firing line of all the shite being thrown back from cutting. I pointed out he wasn't holding it correctly and there's no such thing as a handed chainsaw...just the correct way to hold it. Oh, and if you continue to hold it incorrectly like you are and the chain flies off it's heading straight for your leg, as you're standing on the wrong side of the saw.

As mentioned above...could be a blade binding issue, but the bearings sound really rough...certainly not a smooth operation. As its being run in the video, spray some lube on the blades...if it changes the blade speed, then look in the blade area for the issue. Gum, burred teeth..that sort of thing. To my mind it sounds motor/bearing related though

I appreciate this is top end stuff, but all should be taken into consideration for the wider picture. What compression tester are you using...it is known to you to be accurate?

Poor plug threads in the cylinder, leaking carb or manifold, rings not correctly fitted and to a lesser extent crank seals leaking??

There should be constant drive to both rear wheels when the drive is engaged correctly

iIiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiYou could but you wont be the best results turning it by hand. If you remove the blade it will most likely not start so dont try. The blade acts as a flywheel, and trying to start a mower like yours with no blade fitted when you pull the rope you with get severe kickback and the rope handle will be snatched out your hand.....very painful. If you have checked the cable is correctly attached to the operating lever on the gearbox, and you have cleaned out the pinions and lubed it all up, just reassemble it all, put the wheels back on, start it with the blade on and engage the drive if you can easily stall the drive to the rear wheels by holding it back from going forward, then stop the drive, adjust the cable up via the inline adjuster and keep doing it until the wheels continue to scrabble for traction whilst holding the mower stationary. If you can hold it back and the wheels stop rotating under load even though the cable is adjusted as far as it will go, its the gearbox........as i mentioned earlier, this is providing the belt is correctly tensioned, but if it isnt you wouldnt get any drive at all as the belt would simply slip on the engine pulley when started.