pleasant

We have already given France very nearly that amount already and they are happy to take our money and stick two fingers up and turn a blind eye to the dinghies Just a moment... COMMONSLIBRARY.PARLIAMENT.UK

Good man. Pictures are welcome

'Diversity is our strength' 😇

IF you have to go through several safe counties en route to the UK ,and then employ a gangster to smuggle you into a country and pay them an eye watering amount of money to do so, then by definition you are not poor, nor a genuine asylum seeker. There are channels in place for genuine asylum seekers to the UK, none of which include smuggling you into the UK at vast cost to the underworld. Anyone who says the majority are genuine asylum seekers are gullible fools. Genuine asylum seekers already have a legal route at little cost.

In the UK now, if you have any opinion that is some way different to the agenda set out by the MSM, then you are instantly labelled as 'far right' which instantly pigeon holes you into the same category as Tommy Robinson. the EDL and the National Front. They do this so you appear to the sheeple, that you are affiliated to those extreme organisations so you either shut up or you get shut up. If you dare suggest there are too many immigrants coming over in boat, you are now far right, if you suggest we have too many people in this country you are far right...it's all done so in the end you comply with how they think you 'should' be thinking.

You would from me...although im not fussy!

Overfilling will cause hydraulic pressure if the grease has nowhere in the gearbox to migrate to. This will blow the seals where the blades extend from as will as any seal between the clutch housing and the drive gears and also the lower cover plate gasket. Stihls advice is to only check and top up if required every 25 hours of use....admittedly that could be every week of a pro user but for weekend warriors that probably 3 or 4 years. Rule of thumb, if you remove the grease plugs and there is a 'tail' of grease on the inner side of the plug as its removed, then it shouldnt need any. We always give a quick pump of grease just to be sure, but even then, unless we are rebuilding a gearbox a tube of the special grease last our workshop considerable time, so doesnt work out much more expensive than some alternative

You have a point re the chainsaw protection element, and safety boots/shoes with soles made from a certain material and will just turn to dust after a couple of years whether you wear them every day or only occasionally....that's the nature of what it's made from. I did some research because I was so cheesed of with the soles crumbling on my occasional use chainsaw boots, and I avoid soles made from that now. Since then, I have always purchased chainsaw boots and my everyday steel toe capped work boots not made from it, BUT I don't expect any boots worn everyday at work to last much more than a year anyway. Mine get a lot of use and abuse and I am surprised they last that long. For my main work (I'm a dealer- not a pro arborists) I wear scruffs dealer boots with steel toe cap and steel sole inserts...cost about £60. Really comfy and well made...but still only last a year. Google the issue with soles disintegrating (there's loads about it) and then avoid that material..think it's called PU (probably short for polyurethane)

Yes....I was asked to do this last year when a customer had both models, and ran into said issues. Cost him more than expected in the end.

What? My comment to try and help you or the helpline in said comment?

The stihl 045 (1115 series) was produced from 1974 to 1984. The later the manufacture, the more safety features, such as AV...anti vibe mounts and an operational chainbrake, rather than a simple hand guard for example

The MS241 Is the entry level Stihl PRO ground saw. Definitely NOT a home owner saw. Homeowner Stihl finish in their range with the MS251. Was one of the first Stihl saws with mtronic alongside the ms441. This was around 2011.

Being as polite as i can but without trying to be insulting, but we dont touch them at all. They really arent made to come apart and never go back right, and spares supply should we need them are non existent. They are marginally one step up the rung of quality than flymo. If we look at them for what would be a simple repair, then we've put our name to it....then when ii invariably comes back with a more serious issue and we say we won't touch it, we are in the scenario of the customer stating 'well, you've looked at it before' Then we have the same customer telling all his mates we now repair Hyundai, and we get a load coming in and we have to explain we only did the repair on his mates machine as it was a simple repair, but yours is more serious etc, and then we have arguments on our hands So we dont put ourselves in that position

spring re-fitted. Thanks for your help everyone 👍 All pics are really helpful dave. Cheers

All pics are really helpful dave. Cheers

Youre a star bob the dog. Thank you.

OK. That would be great. Needs to be either of the models (above) other models are different you see.

We have taken one in for a service and noticed there is no tension on the plastic grass deflector flap (the hard plastic one you lift up when you fit the grassbag- not the rubber flap underneath the rear end of the mower) Spring is still present but is just flopping around loose on the securing rod to the body. I cannot for the life of me work out the correct way it should be fitted. Not being a Honda main dealer, info is somewhat short to obtain and I don't have another one of the same to compare it to. I have googled, you tubed and obtained a parts list, but nothing is clear as to its orientation. If anyone has one on here can you take a couple of pics how it should be fitted?

When I was younger I used to love corned beef. One day at work in the staff canteen (remember them??) I ordered a corned beef sandwich for lunch. Sat down at a table with my colleagues, started eating the sandwich and I thought 'that bits a bit chewy' and I ended up pulling out my mouth 90% of a cows eyelid with eyelashes still attached. Unsurprisingly I don't eat it anymore.

Smoked salmon and cream cheese. Nicely buttered on good quality brown bread.

You have to cater for the idiots and chancers. Putting in the description what may be the issue as to why a machine is for spares or repair is as nearly as good as stating it IS definitely the reason. I have had several of instances on various 'ebay' forums whereby a buyer has had a successful refund on a spares or repair item where the seller stated in the description 'compression feels fine, so I don't think that is the issue' When the buyer received it, the compression was far from fine. The seller genuinely felt he was being honest and helpful, but bit him in the backside. Best to state proven facts that cannot be disputed rather than opinions and subjective descriptions.

I echo (excuse the pun) what spud said above. I would add good, clear photos are a must. Give the saws a clean up first as well......apply 'bullshit spray' if you have any......commonly known as silicone dashshine/bumper cleaner/tyre shine, as the plastics will come up nice for the pics. A good description helps to sell.....an honest one sells better than a short cagey one. Offer postage if you have a box to put them or it in....you will always get more than if you list as collection only.

The flywheel shouldn't move on its axis. If you have 'play' instead of it being a tight fit, then this can throw the timing out. The timing is set by the keyway in the flywheel/crankshaft and is not adjustable. Seems too much of a coincidence not to suggest where the flywheel has come into contact with the contacts on the module it could have stalled the rotation of the flywheel and damaged the keyway?

What part of the country are you? Would be good to have as a source of spares in my game

Careful Spud...you don't want to have to give back your ten mill do you???