pleasant

The two are like chalk and cheese. Do you want a rear roller or a wheeled machine? Once you have decided that, then you have made your choice out of the two you have mentioned. Aside from stripes (which is actually a by product of having a rear roller btw) having a roller will allow you to cut right up to the edge of your lawn if you have a dropped border lessening the chances of scalping, it will cut lower than a mower without a roller, as the roller can act as a foot guard if you use it without the grassbox fitted, lessening the chances of your foot entering the rear of the deck. Mowers without a roller have to have the blade height raised slightly to try to avoid this. And a roller prevents tram lines in your lawn when cutting in early and late season when the ground is damp and spongy. Up to you. The Moutfield does have the Honda fitted, which is a good engine (providing you never leave fuel in the carb for extended periods as they easily gum up) but it is a wheeled mower, and the gearboxes aren't great and wear quickly. The metal chassis can also rot out quickly...certainly quicker than a lot of others I see. You are fine if you clean underneath after every cut and don't let it build up. There's less chance of clogging as by not having a roller the discharge chute will be wider, but you won't have the advantages of having a roller listed above. Cobra products are a Chinese brand, generally using Lonchin branded engines.....they are OK (ish) but parts can be difficult to obtain as are dealers if you have a warranty issue. Neither would be my first choice, but it all comes down to your budget...as always. Personally, if I am not using a machine for commercial use, I would always have a rear roller mower in my own garden.

All machines we ever sell are fully assembled, fuelled and oiled ready for customer to collect. He/she is then given a concise handover as to start, run and stop it. Including the correct use of safety devices and what to do and what not to do. This covers all machines we sell, whether hand held or wheeled, such as lawnmowers and such like. We have been main dealers over the years for some of the biggest and most prestigious brands- but not Echo. All brands we have been a dealer for stipulate this is how their machines should be handed over after a concise PDI, and we sign paperwork to prove this has been done. In the last 10 years or so, with the introduction of more stringent EU emissions- especially 2-strokes, we have seen an awful lot of 2-stroke machinery assembled by us prior to hand over, that will barely run out the box....this is, so if randomly picked off the production line by some EU official the manufacturer can be guaranteed it will pass emission tests. Once the machine is sold, emission tests do not apply, so us dealers override if necessary the factory carb settings to allow the machine to breathe properly- and thus operate as it should. We do have the odd machine out the box that will run fine with no tweaking, but will probably come back for an adjustment a week or so later. We don't charge for these adjustments as it would be awkward to do so and doesn't foster good relationships with customers.....even though the manufacturer won't pay us for doing so, so it cost us time and money, but in the long run it will pay off for us.

Duck bill vent valve missing? Cap not on correctly? Hole in tank body? Oil feed pipe split, damaged, not on properly or missing?

You are probably correct, but I was being light hearted about it...hence my comment

....or they were, but they were happy not to have them back.

Yes.....all 5 of those in that line are Chinese clone shite. No wonder no one came forward to claim them. 😅

Ladies and gentlemen.......this thread explains to you in no uncertian certain terms why you should avoid Hyundai and buy the correct machine in the first place. This thread should really be an infomercial. 😅

The Flymo hovers fitted with the Tecumseh MV100 engine had the snorkel set up on the upper handle

Good engines that Suzuki M120x. Remember selling them new. Unlikely to find ready new parts for that.......NOS is possible from an old dealer. Flymo part number if you need it: 5195293-00/5

Agree...and also need to take into account insurance. Would need to inform his insurer the machine has been 'modified'- if not, and it takes his eye or leg out, or (and I know several people this has happened to) they have kicked up a stone and taken out a double glazed patio door... machine inspected and discovered not 'stock' and insurer didn't pay out. A lot forget this.

If you are suggesting a replacement power unit thats compatible with your existing attachments, then there are more variables to consider than just the inner driveshaft. Internal and external diameter of the of the outer alloy tube, the way the attachments fix to the power unit tube.....not sure what you mean by mentioning the honda gx50, as that is just a bare engine...not a complete power unit which would plug and play?

You dont need to know the make and model of the carb. The unique briggs and stratton engine codes on the blower housing will give you a parts list which will inform you what carb is fitted and the part numbers required to order. It will be model, type and code...thats how the engine number is formed. Just type the model and type numbers into google and you will find a parts list. The first two numbers of the last set of numbers. ...the 'code' will tell you the year of manufacture should you need it.

National minimum living wage is now £11.44 p/h for over 18's. When charging yourself out, you need to include all your overheads- the cost of training and your skills and experience, the cost of purchasing your machinery, the depreciation, your time and cost to travel to the job, and then the running cost of your machinery for an hour- you will get though a litre of 2-stroke an hour for example, and a litre of unleaded now is say £1.50 plus the cost of your oil, and that's without the maintenance and repair costs factored in. Then protective clothing etc. Then you will have your income tax and national insurance, and then cost to purchase/rent/hire your vehicle, and the insurance for it and road tax and running costs, your public liability insurance etc. At that hourly rate you may as well stack shelves in Tesco and be financially a lot better off. You need to work out how much you need in your pocket to live on after all these costs have been taken out. If you say you only need to clear in your pocket £15 p/h then you need to be charging yourself out at considerably more than that to know you won't end up working for little more than minimum wage.

Genuine refugees are not people that need to pay thousands to criminals to get here under cover or darkness and sneak their way in. There is a legitimate process for genuine migrants......those that spend £12-£15k on a family of four to try and make their way in through the back door are by definition not genuine- if they were, they wouldn't need to. Spending that eye watering amount (which in their country of origin would be a kings ransom) tells me financially it's worth them to come here in the long run.

A nice old saw, but hold on, an 028 is a shelf queen vintage saw- not something I would rely on to earn money from. Genuine parts are scarce new, and decent used parts are few and far between. The Chinese copy stuff can be a bit hit and miss and shouldn't be relied on to keep an old saw like that going as an everyday work saw.

Or knickers by the looks of it

You can have a go on my Stihl 090AV with an 84" bar...don't think you would be using it all day though somehow.

Turn up with a mains electric Bosch.......then watch their eyes.

If they're in the way and you need the room I will do you a favour and pop round with £50 if it helps. 👍

The Stihl HS45 Hedge Cutter (24") has been around for donkeys and is a proven good, reliable machine for heavy domestic use/light gardener use. Although not a full pro machine it is liked by a lot of man in a van type gardeners. It's light, reliable and will put up with more than it's really designed for. A good, used one of those and you can't go far wrong. When you say 'strimmer' do you mean a lightweight swan necked grass trimmer (where the trade marked name 'strimmer' comes from) or do you want a straight shaft machine...commonly called a brush cutter. Which can take larger diameter line and if powerful enough a metal blade for 'brush' The Stihl FS40/FS50 Swan necked grass trimmers are very good, reliable and light. Ideal for edging and cutting longer grass up against a fence or wall etc. Not great for doing a paddock but you wouldn't have a grass trimmer for that use anyway. Again, a heavy domestic product, but all swan necked grass trimmers are domestic use only anyway. The Stihl brush cutters with the straight shafts that can take a blade pretty much start with the FS56 (loop or cow handle) and are very good, but because they use a flexi drive shaft they are limited to heavier line than a grass trimmer takes, but blades can be a bit iffy when fitted. They will fit, but the flexi drive can shear if under too much load. Hope that helps.

Those Chinese clones are always rather 'optimistic' when they state hp and cc's. It is unlikely to be anywhere near 71cc already There is a youtube video somewhere which shows you how to check the actual cc of these saws.

The FS131 is the latest version of the FS130, which still uses the 4-mix engine. The WSM is based on the engine rather than the machine, and the code for the 4-mix engine is the 4180 'powerhead' Here's a link to download the workshop manual with the info you need: https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attach/667/667252-4180repairmanual.pdf

By comparison to getting it wrong and having to buy a new pot and piston or new saw....oil is cheap. Which was the point I was making for the OP

Is your oil a 50:1 dilution ratio oil? If so, then yes. It will be clearly marked on the bottle of oil the recommended dilution ratio- don't veer from that. Remember it is the quality of the oil that dictates the ratio not the machine. If you have gone to a 'shed' type place or a supermarket and have bought generic 2-stroke oil with no specific ratio on the bottle then bin it and buy some proper stuff...it's not expensive even if you buy Stihl or Husky stuff

Buy two while you're there. The first one will break down in the middle of a job, so at least you will have the other to just about finish the job until that one breaks as well. ...oh...and don't even think about trying to find spares and someone that's willing to repair it.