pleasant

It did. When I took it in to get the new clutch, I asked them to sharpen it, apparently they did not. So it still has a 'dull, dirty chain?' With respect.....your problem will definitely not be unique from my experience.

Get yourself a Hayterette.....its wider than the designated earlier Hawk graveyard mower but a similar design. Built like a barn door and will cope with hitting anything it shouldn't due to its 'swinging blade' design. Seriously.

...so did it have a dull, dirty chain??

New machines are set to run very lean to adhere to the latest 'euro emission' rules. Most manufacturers deliberately err on the side of caution and set their machines up on the production line so they run so lean that they barely run at all. They do this, so if they are spot checked by the relevant authorities to ensure they are complying with emissions then they know they will definitely pass. Part of our PDI criteria is to set them up to run properly AFTER a customer has placed an order. Once a machine has been purchased then euro compliancy is null and void you see, so you can over ride carb settings. This is why a load of online purchase stuff doesn't run well out the box as no one has done any carb adjustments. Buy from a dealer and they would have already run the machine up once ready for collection. Worth remembering that.

Unlikely as it's stated it will only run with the choke applied, which suggests lean rather than rich which would be a carbonated muffler or arrestor. Needing the choke fully or partially applied indicates it is scavenging for fuel and adding choke is artificially richening the fuel to air ratio. it is a carb issue and carb on these are notorious if they have been left with fuel in the system for any length of time. There is also limited adjustment...if any mix adjustment at all. That said, they are easy carbs to remove and work on, although a chinese pattern carb will be just as easy to cure the problem.

Hayter Hawk graveyard mower is what you need....although we are going back a bit, it is what they were made for:

In your top photo. To the left of where the throttle cable attaches is the black plastic 'butterfly' I was referring to in my earlier post. In the brass centre (if it has one) will be a minute plastic top hat shaped plug which will need removing to access the slot to adjust the fuel setting. It may already be missing as I suspect someone has already been at it, as you stated it has an oregon plug fitted. That isnt original....they came with chinese Torch branded plugs from factory. Someone may have already removed the plug. However IF there is some sealer in the hole then there is no adjustment in that area.

From memory you can, but the blade speed will then be incorrect for the blade design, as the gearing if different for a hedge cutter than its is for the hedge trimmer model and vice versa. You will also need to change over the gearing.

If your carb has mixture adjustment (like I said most didn't) then it will be in one of two places. Look at the top of the carb and note the flat black plastic part that moves as you apply the throttle. It will have what looks like a rivet which attaches it to the top of the carb. There will be a very small plastic plug in the top which can be removed with a pointy blade of very small screwdriver. If it has this plug, then it's good news as when removed look inside the brass part that is now exposed and you should see a very small slot for a very narrow bladed screwdriver. If you rotate this gently anti clockwise it will allow more fuel through and thus negating any blockages within the carb, which it would appear you currently have. If there is no small plastic plug, but instead there is some sort of sealer gunk in the hole then forget it as there is no adjustment in that area. Now look at the front side of the carb- the side facing towards the blades and on that side you may see a small 'plug' of a darker metal than the light alloy of the main body of the carb. Probably around 4mm in diameter. If you have, look closely at it and you should see a notch in one small area of this round plug. If it has, then this is your mix adjuster and you will need a 'pacman' type adjuster screwdriver for a couple of quid. Again once you have applied the screwdriver so the corresponding lug in the end of the screwdriver locks into the notch on the adjuster gently turn anticlockwise. If it has neither.....then just get a new carb of the bay for about £12.00 ....or just do that anyway!

It's a fairly newish generic chinese product. Marketed under various brand names such as, Mitox, For example: Mitox 60D Select Hedgetrimmer MITOX.CO.UK The 60D is a powerful, lightweight, double sided hedge trimmer, with a reliable 25.4cc engine and 68cm double reciprocating... Same machines were also marketed under the mountfield, gardencare and cobra brand names. (and homelite- as mentioned above) Wouldn't spend much money or time on it.....they never ran right when new....constantly needed the mix adjusting...and that's if the carb wasn't a fixed jet, which a lot were. Remember selling them for £149 (ish) and that wasn't long ago, so not great money.

Sorry, talking bollocks. Was thinking of an earlier model. Yours is transistorised ignition

They are a points ignition system....from memory there's an access hole to them around the flywheel area, although on some of these you had to remove the flywheel to gain access.

Don't mix up your fuel at 20:1 unless you have some really old 20:1 recommended dilution ratio oil for heavens sake. Get some modern semi or fully synthetic stuff at 50:1

I sold one few months back as a non runner..paid £50 for it. Spent an hour cleaning it and making it look ok for some pics, then sold it on for £125. They are big old lumps, not rare and not really desirable I'm afraid. That original Danarm bar on yours is worth nearly as much as the power unit. It's got good clear Danarm markings on it and would compliment a saw that has a really clean,working power unit. Don't see many with such a good condition genuine Danarm marked bar.

If you need a saw to earn you money and its your go to main saw, then best avoid the plastic bodied domestic range stihls.....i am referring to models up to the ms251. They are a domestic hobby saw and are not designed for the hours, use and abuse a saw that is used to earn money is. I will contradict myself slightly by saying the farmer range is the minimum you should be looking at in stihl...so the ms291 and 391. Same cheap plastic clamshell construction but designed for a bit heavier work, But heavy and power to weight is crap. Like others have said if it were my money the ms261 would be where i would start.

Ahhh....pity. Right at the other end of the country for me. Good luck though.

Where abouts are you. If you are near me I would be more than happy to cut it up for you. Gives me an excuse to fire up one of my big old school shelf queens for a workout.

Difficult to make out the diameter of the largest parts, but a 16" bar really only has a useable length of 14 or 15" . Therefore if the max diameter of that trunk a lot wider than 28 or 30" then even if you sawed all the way around the diameter the full depth of the bar it would still be attached in the middle. More importantly is the saw up to it rather than the length of the bar.....you can fit a 16" bar to an ms211 but i wouldnt want to cut a huge trunk with one

Through an A/V mount

The 'third' cap in an A/V mount ......although it is wildly optimistic fitting av mounts to one of those as they have to be running for a reasonable time to counteract the effects of white finger....which it wont. 😂

Its not a clone of any recognised manufacturer im afraid. These were brought out several years ago under various chinese internet 'brands' then the same model was cloned to be a fake stihl, although aside from the colour scheme it looked nothing like any current stihl model. It will never run or if it does it will never run right for long. With respect, they are just landfill....which really annoys me.

Difficult to say as not all 461's are the same regarding condition, hours on it etc. Would you be selling it with a bar and chain...if so what length? See it makes a lot of difference. Its predecessor, the ms460 in good condition are still going for good money....4 to 500 quid mark for a good one, but they are now a good collectors saw and still a good saw in its own right. Best judge of what something is worth is 'the bay' watch a few that are listed that are similar to yours as see if they sell. Best if you can find one listed as an auction rather than a buy it now that takes offers.

The pawl return springs are available. I remember you had to wind them on over the pawl, as the pawls were factory fitted to the flywheel via those 'pins' If you note the IPL doesn't list the pins seperately https://www.motoruf.de/mo/ersatzteillisten/FTP/McCulloch/Ersatzteillisten/IPL, McCulloch, Mac 335, Mac Cat 435, Mac Cat 440, 1999-10, Chain Saw.pdf

Remember when I started smoking we had one of those wooden draw pull out cigarette vending machines where i worked. Cigarettes were 40 odd pence a pack and the machine would take 50p pieces and you received something like 10p back taped to the packet of cigarettes. This kind of thing...anyone else remember the change being taped to the packet of fags? THB2990 Cigarette mulitcoin Vending Machine “Five-0 vendit” with Phoenix Tower Cigarettes (20s) • Trevor Howsam Limited (Boston) TREVORHOWSAM.COM

They are blind riveted in place.....a press fit if you like. The pawls are metal with a return spring on each. Why do you need to replace them? If you have a valid reason then a new flywheel comes with them already fitted as unless to have some special equipment to remove and install you won't be able to do it..hence why flywheels come with them factory fitted. There's a good, used flywheel on the bay at the moment with pawls fitted for only £20 McCulloch Mac 335 Chainsaw - Flywheel (F3) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>McCulloch Mac 338 Chainsaw</p><br><p>Flywheel </p><p>Please see photos for...