pleasant

Warranty is irrelevant as it's not transferable. Only applies to the original purchaser. A common mistake.

Most mains electric or battery chainsaws have a cut out switch rather than a traditional chainbrake as you will very quickly burn out the motor and strip nylon drive gears if a brake band was used with power still going to the motor with it still switched on. Once the brake lever is activated it cuts the power

Very diplomatic, and not at all unexpected 😅

Surely you dont need any software for estimating purposes? The tried and tested method of mentally valuing the customers house then licking you index finger and sticking it in the air seems to work for most fine. 😇

How do you get around importing. The reason they are so rare is japan hardly exported them due to failing emission test and no chainbrake fitted? I know of some people who in the past have imported them in parts to try and get around this but echo got wise.

Nice....theyre not all yours surely? What you after for one of those...couple of k? Gotta be....bet no bar or chain inc either.

When you answered 'maybe' to one earlier i did get a little bit of movement in the pants dept. 😁

The stihl 090 10 cube is the super rare model with the separate bolt on cylinder head (not a bolt on pot, but an actual head....think it was developed for racing in stihl research dept in their spare time. Not many made and not generally released to the public. Dread to think what i would have to pay for one of those....let alone a solo 611 nowadays

Can I have an Echo CS-1201, a Solo 611, a Stihl 041G, a Stihl 090 10 cube, a McCulloch BP-1 and a Dolmar KMS-4 chainsaw please?

90psi is very low. As spud has said it shouldnt even start that low. Minimum psi for it even begin to 'pop' let alone run would be 100+...and that will significantly lower further as it heats up once started due to heat expansion. 10 year old pro saw? As others have said, its done its money and on your books owes you nothing. Repair it by all means if you feel the need, but would to trust it to be a reliable saw on a job earning you money....or costing you money if it fails? Remember, even if the pot and piston are new...everything else will still be ten years old. Either repair it and keep it as a spare just in case, or sell it as it is, as you will still get reasonable money for it even as a spares machine, or buy a new one and keep it as a spares donor.

This yellow frame filter has a black plastic screw down 'button' with a slot in it for a screwdriver

The Ford connect van is available with three front seat, so does make it very practical....providing your family doesn't consist of three very large adults, as it can be a bit tight. Not too big, so you can't park it in a multi storey, not so small (esp lwb version) that you can't get anything in the back. They offer a car version of it, so they know to drive it has car characteristics

ADW. A quick update. Both of these machines have a yellow frame to the air filter- not orange. We continued in the normal way with a service, and we then buried the length of the bar into a hard, seasoned log on a saw horse turned so we were cutting with the grain. This enabled us to noodle under heavy load as it takes longer to cut with the grain....otherwise a 40 second cut cross cutting with one of these saws, our log would need to be 5ft round! We managed a constant load cut for around the 40 seconds required (apparently) Then lifted it out the cut and the saw would fast idle....not slowly dying on idle. In fact the idle was a little too fast as the chain was creeping, but after 10 seconds or so it did slow. I left it to cool down, then tried again-slightly shorter time- around 20 seconds. Again, lift it out the cut and settled down to idle fine. Going to give it another go from dead cold in the morning and see if it's the same.

👍 Keep you posted.

First thing we do on an unknown machine is drain out the tank, then if a primer fitted, prime it through back into the tank then tip that out and then refill with our own known mix. Gives us a datum point to work to....plus we can assess the condition and quality of the fuel mix thats come out of it.

Thanks for your suggestions. Based on what you have said, i will initially instruct the guys to proceed down the normal service route and change the service items and check what we would normally do it it were a bog standard saw. Adw....these are both 2020 machines, so is anything you stated with regards to age in your post more or less relevant? Oh, and they are like new....being used on a farm they arent used full time so havent done a lot of hours The better one of the two....the one with a very slight hesitation on pick up i ran today and did half a dozen or so cuts in hard seasoned wood on a saw horse that we use for testing. Cuts like a monster in the cuts and after those test cuts the slight hesitation on acceleration had gone?? I will restart it from cold in the morning and see if still the same

Well, it's normally me offering advice on repairs, but on this occasion I am after a bit of advice myself. We have had a new customer approach us about servicing and repair of their farm hand held stuff. Initially the call was asking if we would do Stihl...which we do. Upon arrival, the maintenance manager brings into us a couple of Stihl machines, plus two Husqvarna 562xp saws. Now, we used to be a Husky main dealer, but that was near 20 years ago, and pre dates all the electronic gubbins they now fit to their carbs. The two 2020 manufacturerd 562's have this auto tune carb system which my guys aren't familiar with. I took them in because if I didn't it would mean we may lose the rest of the machines....although I did point out we haven't done Husky for sometime. I was assured it was just to service and get going and make them ready for two of his guys to use on a forthcoming CS30/31 training course. We have got to the point of getting them both started, although we haven't thrown a full service at them yet. They both start BUT one has got a very slight hesitation from acceleration on idle....and I mean very slight. A millisecond before it revs up cleanly....but I know it's there. The second one, again starts and revs up and accelerates cleanly but slowly dies on idle. My guys have said there's loads on places like this one and you tube videos advising on how to approach issues with this auto tune system, and highlights some of the issues we have with these two. Particularly the one that dies on idle. My questions is....do we 'have a go' and hope we sort the issues by taking this internet advice, or should I be upfront with the guy and say these two are best left to a Husky dealer?? I don't want to play around with them in the hope the issue is cured permanently, only to find in a couple of weeks time one or both play up during the chainsaw course....and of course the inconvenience and cost of that involved? If it's considered a simple fix and a common one, then I don't mind but it's my name above the door so want to do it properly or not at all.

Leave it to fall off on your chickens...save £2.5k and chickens to sell for christmas in a few weeks time. 😇

VID-20231030-WA0000.mp4

No. Different diameters

??? 🤔

Yes, as long as the piston is 58mm dia, then they are identical. In all likelyhood it will be, although at some stage the ts760 did have a smaller dia piston...53mm from memory

Whatever you go for (and the Stihl clearing saws are fine) make sure you have a dealer relatively near. My experience of dealers in Scotland means they can be few are far between as it's a difficult market to get into.

Yes, I know its a lot to ask and a long shot but i have inherited from an elderly customer an 076av. It was in with me earlier this year to get going and estimate the cost thereof. Aside from it not run for years and a varnished carb and perished fuel lines, it also had a badly scored piston and barrel....which was a pity as cosmetically its in nice condition. Customer has asked me to dispose of it now its been with me a few months, which i am loathe to do as i am a bit of a collector of big saws. Carb isnt a problem i can rebuild that, but the pot and piston is. I can get a stupidly priced chinese pattern one, but i want to keep it as original as i can. So if anyone has a doggy power head or even a short engine but with a decent pot and piston which i can transplant i would be interested. Cheers.

Sounds and looks like you have constant drive to the clutch drum sprocket, which like spud said could well be a broken clutch spring. With the saw off and the bar and chain removed can you easily spin the drum by hand and is there any unusual rattling from that area. Its only an e clip holding it all in place....put a cloth over it and use a screwdriver behind the cloth to ping it off.....the cloth stops the clip flying off never to be seen again. Then pull the drum off. There shouldnt be much resistance is everything in there if ok