pleasant

From memory you can, but the blade speed will then be incorrect for the blade design, as the gearing if different for a hedge cutter than its is for the hedge trimmer model and vice versa. You will also need to change over the gearing.

If your carb has mixture adjustment (like I said most didn't) then it will be in one of two places. Look at the top of the carb and note the flat black plastic part that moves as you apply the throttle. It will have what looks like a rivet which attaches it to the top of the carb. There will be a very small plastic plug in the top which can be removed with a pointy blade of very small screwdriver. If it has this plug, then it's good news as when removed look inside the brass part that is now exposed and you should see a very small slot for a very narrow bladed screwdriver. If you rotate this gently anti clockwise it will allow more fuel through and thus negating any blockages within the carb, which it would appear you currently have. If there is no small plastic plug, but instead there is some sort of sealer gunk in the hole then forget it as there is no adjustment in that area. Now look at the front side of the carb- the side facing towards the blades and on that side you may see a small 'plug' of a darker metal than the light alloy of the main body of the carb. Probably around 4mm in diameter. If you have, look closely at it and you should see a notch in one small area of this round plug. If it has, then this is your mix adjuster and you will need a 'pacman' type adjuster screwdriver for a couple of quid. Again once you have applied the screwdriver so the corresponding lug in the end of the screwdriver locks into the notch on the adjuster gently turn anticlockwise. If it has neither.....then just get a new carb of the bay for about £12.00 ....or just do that anyway!

It's a fairly newish generic chinese product. Marketed under various brand names such as, Mitox, For example: Mitox 60D Select Hedgetrimmer MITOX.CO.UK The 60D is a powerful, lightweight, double sided hedge trimmer, with a reliable 25.4cc engine and 68cm double reciprocating... Same machines were also marketed under the mountfield, gardencare and cobra brand names. (and homelite- as mentioned above) Wouldn't spend much money or time on it.....they never ran right when new....constantly needed the mix adjusting...and that's if the carb wasn't a fixed jet, which a lot were. Remember selling them for £149 (ish) and that wasn't long ago, so not great money.

Sorry, talking bollocks. Was thinking of an earlier model. Yours is transistorised ignition

They are a points ignition system....from memory there's an access hole to them around the flywheel area, although on some of these you had to remove the flywheel to gain access.

Don't mix up your fuel at 20:1 unless you have some really old 20:1 recommended dilution ratio oil for heavens sake. Get some modern semi or fully synthetic stuff at 50:1

I sold one few months back as a non runner..paid £50 for it. Spent an hour cleaning it and making it look ok for some pics, then sold it on for £125. They are big old lumps, not rare and not really desirable I'm afraid. That original Danarm bar on yours is worth nearly as much as the power unit. It's got good clear Danarm markings on it and would compliment a saw that has a really clean,working power unit. Don't see many with such a good condition genuine Danarm marked bar.

If you need a saw to earn you money and its your go to main saw, then best avoid the plastic bodied domestic range stihls.....i am referring to models up to the ms251. They are a domestic hobby saw and are not designed for the hours, use and abuse a saw that is used to earn money is. I will contradict myself slightly by saying the farmer range is the minimum you should be looking at in stihl...so the ms291 and 391. Same cheap plastic clamshell construction but designed for a bit heavier work, But heavy and power to weight is crap. Like others have said if it were my money the ms261 would be where i would start.

Ahhh....pity. Right at the other end of the country for me. Good luck though.

Where abouts are you. If you are near me I would be more than happy to cut it up for you. Gives me an excuse to fire up one of my big old school shelf queens for a workout.

Difficult to make out the diameter of the largest parts, but a 16" bar really only has a useable length of 14 or 15" . Therefore if the max diameter of that trunk a lot wider than 28 or 30" then even if you sawed all the way around the diameter the full depth of the bar it would still be attached in the middle. More importantly is the saw up to it rather than the length of the bar.....you can fit a 16" bar to an ms211 but i wouldnt want to cut a huge trunk with one

Through an A/V mount

The 'third' cap in an A/V mount ......although it is wildly optimistic fitting av mounts to one of those as they have to be running for a reasonable time to counteract the effects of white finger....which it wont. 😂

Its not a clone of any recognised manufacturer im afraid. These were brought out several years ago under various chinese internet 'brands' then the same model was cloned to be a fake stihl, although aside from the colour scheme it looked nothing like any current stihl model. It will never run or if it does it will never run right for long. With respect, they are just landfill....which really annoys me.

Difficult to say as not all 461's are the same regarding condition, hours on it etc. Would you be selling it with a bar and chain...if so what length? See it makes a lot of difference. Its predecessor, the ms460 in good condition are still going for good money....4 to 500 quid mark for a good one, but they are now a good collectors saw and still a good saw in its own right. Best judge of what something is worth is 'the bay' watch a few that are listed that are similar to yours as see if they sell. Best if you can find one listed as an auction rather than a buy it now that takes offers.

The pawl return springs are available. I remember you had to wind them on over the pawl, as the pawls were factory fitted to the flywheel via those 'pins' If you note the IPL doesn't list the pins seperately https://www.motoruf.de/mo/ersatzteillisten/FTP/McCulloch/Ersatzteillisten/IPL, McCulloch, Mac 335, Mac Cat 435, Mac Cat 440, 1999-10, Chain Saw.pdf

Remember when I started smoking we had one of those wooden draw pull out cigarette vending machines where i worked. Cigarettes were 40 odd pence a pack and the machine would take 50p pieces and you received something like 10p back taped to the packet of cigarettes. This kind of thing...anyone else remember the change being taped to the packet of fags? THB2990 Cigarette mulitcoin Vending Machine “Five-0 vendit” with Phoenix Tower Cigarettes (20s) • Trevor Howsam Limited (Boston) TREVORHOWSAM.COM

They are blind riveted in place.....a press fit if you like. The pawls are metal with a return spring on each. Why do you need to replace them? If you have a valid reason then a new flywheel comes with them already fitted as unless to have some special equipment to remove and install you won't be able to do it..hence why flywheels come with them factory fitted. There's a good, used flywheel on the bay at the moment with pawls fitted for only £20 McCulloch Mac 335 Chainsaw - Flywheel (F3) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>McCulloch Mac 338 Chainsaw</p><br><p>Flywheel </p><p>Please see photos for...

Looks good. 👍

Part number for the heated handle stator is 537 07 18-02. Not cheap though

I dont disagree with the previous comments. Although as a matter of course i would hook out the fuel filter and change that for new and whilst doing that i would inspect the pick up pipe for cracking/crumbling. I am no expert on what fuel grades are used in canada but if it were the uk and fuel had been left in the tank that long the ethanol in the fuel would have begun to compromise the integrity of the hose and the filter.

Your should get a few quid back from the 028 as parts for those are getting rare and they are a popular collectors saw...and still a good saw for hobby/occasional/demo use. When i got mine for my collection it needed a brake band, but they are obsolete and are rare as hens teeth as they did used to break quite often. I found one on the bay and had to pay over 20 quid just for the band I still need a better condition orange air filter casing for mine as it has a small bit of plastic missing from the one on it on the lower part where it curves over the rear handle....

A jobu. There are jobu collectors out there, but as an investment purchase they never make great money. Its not a rare model in the range either...to the right person maybe worth...£50-£80.

Why don't you take it to a dealer to do the diagnosis work, then you won't be buying parts that may not cure the problem? We offer an estimating service which cost upfront £35 which allows us to accurately diagnose what the issue is and then quote for the repair. If the customer wishes to progress, then the £35 estimate fee is deducted from the final invoice costs, or if they don't want to go ahead or wish to repair it themselves they can have the machine back and we keep the £35 for the time we spent of it so far. Sometimes it takes us a matter of minutes, sometimes it's a mornings work to diagnose correctly, but its still the same £35 so some we win and some we lose. If a customer wants us to go ahead with the quoted repair and we then fit a new carb for instance, and it doesn't cure the issues, then the cost of that is borne by us, as it is then us who have made an error (doesn't happen often!) It's a win win for the customer.

Try a genuine carb