pleasant

He can do nearly 300 miles in a day...by the time he gets back he has around 50 miles left in the charge, so hence he needs another full charge for the following day and its the same every day. If he doesn't get it on charge pretty much straight away he gets home, he won't have another full charge for the morning you see.

Just get the proper adjustment tool. They only cost a few quid- just over £4 to be exact. https://centralspares.co.uk/parts/engine-parts/carburettors-parts/carburettor-tools/stihl-screwdriver-for-carburetor

I can't tell you. The wife wears mine!

A good friend of mine works for a company with perceived 'green' credentials, so last year they replaced their fleet of company vehicles with all electric.....including my friends company vehicle. Now, he is an area manager which covers a large chunk of England. He can easily travel several hundred miles a day every day. By the time his electric car gets home he normally has around 10% of charge left. He then puts it on his home charger and is fully charged by around 6am the following day ready for him to leave for work just after 7am. All well and good...until he realised very quickly that if he wanted to go out in the evening after work, then the car wouldnt be charged enough by the time he wanted to leave for work when he got back later in the evening. So now, he has had to buy another (cheap petrol) car, so he and his family actually have transport to go out in. Bonkers situation...but thats the reality.

Garden/field. The fact remains in the OP he isnt even entering her garden/field and nothing he is cutting will need retrieving as he is roping it back to his side. 'We have no intention of stepping foot on their land and the branches can be rigged, or use a telehandler to get them down safely.'

He said he isnt entering her garden and all branches will be roped and cut then pulled back over his side of the fence. Thats what i read anyway. He's has no need to enter her garden and nothing will land or need to be retrieved from his neighbours side. Only thing that will fall on her side are a few leaves and maybe a handful of chippings....which is what normally happens with trees this time of the year. Unless i have read the OP wrong.

Aside from being a cantankerous old 'thing' I really don't see an issue. You are cutting off your branches from your side of the boundary and the branches and any other detritus are being roped directly back over to your side. If you are that concerned then rig up a go pro for the duration.

Crack on. Its your tree, and therefore your debris, which you are clearing up and you aren't trespassing by setting foot on your neighbours land. What reason would they have to object?

From a company called TriLink

Wasn't he the lead singer of A-HA?

Stihl Synthplus is Rheopectic...the opposite of Thixotropic. A Thixotropic fluid becomes thinner as it is agitated. For example, the last of the ketchup in the bottom of the bottle. What do you do to get it out? Shake it vigorously and if will become more fluid so you can pour it out. Stihl Synthplus chain oil is very fluid when poured and whilst in the reservoir, however once it has made its way to a rotating chain it thickens and sticks to the chain due to agitation and chain speed. The advantages are such, that the more fluid the oil, the quicker and easier it will get through to the chain via the pipes and pump

This is one of those, that someone with a lot of experience will just look at it and instantly see what the problem is. Very difficult to make any judgement as to the issue without seeing it....as all these differing suggestions elude to. Like they say, a picture paints a thousand words

Why not just buy the correct flywheel in the first place??

With respect, you should be wiser as several, including myself have advised either the stihl lighter bio chain oil specifically sold for your application, or the makita stuff which would appear similar. Those are the correct grade to use....as you have already found out by using regular chain oil which is unsuitable. The fact the correct stuff is quite expensive so you are unwilling to use it doesnt make you less well informed, just that you dont want to spend that kind of money. You should be a lot wiser now.

Nicking it you mean?

Whenever I hear Black Pudding mentioned it always reminds me of this sketch. About the 1.05 mark should do it.

More to do with dressing the bar rails to level them up on the top due to uneven rail wear...not the mushrooming on the side of the rails

We get quite a few smart arses collecting rotary mowers that have been in for service, peering underneath as we help load it up and telling us to unload it as we haven't sharpened the blade..........true the underside of the blade doesn't look sharpened...because you only sharpen the upper (hidden) side at the 30 degree angle required. I just tell them to lift the deflector flap up and peer inside at the blade and they will see it's been done properly. One guy wasn't convinced and even told us to sharpen the underside before he would pay!

Use a bench grinder........with 25 years of experience doing it.

If you can find one of these, they are fantastic. We have one in the workshop. Been discontinued from Oregon for sometime, but they pop up on the 'bay' from time to time. A lot of people don't even know what it is!

Will this help? https://logsauce.shop-pro.jp/?pid=166436107

You'll be lucky to get a straight answer to that question. Wasn't even forthcoming with the reason why they had to disassemble the engine in the first place when asked. I suspect, because if it had a scored piston and cylinder, then the OP's question about the dealer allegedly swapping piston sizes over and what should they do about it would make the question irrelevant, and the OP would have had to buy a new pot and piston at cost to themselves anyway, so the fact it may have had a smaller diameter piston fitted wouldn't have made the slightest bit of difference so the question was pointless as to what a dealer should do and how they should approach them- which is presumably why they were being evasive when asked.

Yup...farmers are under the impression (unlike their Range Rovers) all machinery will continue to function perfectly regardless of zero maintenance and abuse by untrained operators. (I know not ALL farmers fall into that category, but the vast majority of my farmer customers do)

True....farm hands usually make the best mechanics. Can normally repair any 2 or 4 stroke machine within 24 hours you know. "I can rebuild any two or four stroke engine, overnight if necessary for the next day, most farmers I know can do it too“ strange, as most farmers are my customers.

First thing i change if i have one in with one of those fitted....even if its unrelated! Oh.....and Torch plugs the same