pleasant

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Yes, as long as the piston is 58mm dia, then they are identical. In all likelyhood it will be, although at some stage the ts760 did have a smaller dia piston...53mm from memory

Whatever you go for (and the Stihl clearing saws are fine) make sure you have a dealer relatively near. My experience of dealers in Scotland means they can be few are far between as it's a difficult market to get into.

Yes, I know its a lot to ask and a long shot but i have inherited from an elderly customer an 076av. It was in with me earlier this year to get going and estimate the cost thereof. Aside from it not run for years and a varnished carb and perished fuel lines, it also had a badly scored piston and barrel....which was a pity as cosmetically its in nice condition. Customer has asked me to dispose of it now its been with me a few months, which i am loathe to do as i am a bit of a collector of big saws. Carb isnt a problem i can rebuild that, but the pot and piston is. I can get a stupidly priced chinese pattern one, but i want to keep it as original as i can. So if anyone has a doggy power head or even a short engine but with a decent pot and piston which i can transplant i would be interested. Cheers.

Sounds and looks like you have constant drive to the clutch drum sprocket, which like spud said could well be a broken clutch spring. With the saw off and the bar and chain removed can you easily spin the drum by hand and is there any unusual rattling from that area. Its only an e clip holding it all in place....put a cloth over it and use a screwdriver behind the cloth to ping it off.....the cloth stops the clip flying off never to be seen again. Then pull the drum off. There shouldnt be much resistance is everything in there if ok

He can do nearly 300 miles in a day...by the time he gets back he has around 50 miles left in the charge, so hence he needs another full charge for the following day and its the same every day. If he doesn't get it on charge pretty much straight away he gets home, he won't have another full charge for the morning you see.

Just get the proper adjustment tool. They only cost a few quid- just over £4 to be exact. https://centralspares.co.uk/parts/engine-parts/carburettors-parts/carburettor-tools/stihl-screwdriver-for-carburetor

I can't tell you. The wife wears mine!

A good friend of mine works for a company with perceived 'green' credentials, so last year they replaced their fleet of company vehicles with all electric.....including my friends company vehicle. Now, he is an area manager which covers a large chunk of England. He can easily travel several hundred miles a day every day. By the time his electric car gets home he normally has around 10% of charge left. He then puts it on his home charger and is fully charged by around 6am the following day ready for him to leave for work just after 7am. All well and good...until he realised very quickly that if he wanted to go out in the evening after work, then the car wouldnt be charged enough by the time he wanted to leave for work when he got back later in the evening. So now, he has had to buy another (cheap petrol) car, so he and his family actually have transport to go out in. Bonkers situation...but thats the reality.

Garden/field. The fact remains in the OP he isnt even entering her garden/field and nothing he is cutting will need retrieving as he is roping it back to his side. 'We have no intention of stepping foot on their land and the branches can be rigged, or use a telehandler to get them down safely.'

He said he isnt entering her garden and all branches will be roped and cut then pulled back over his side of the fence. Thats what i read anyway. He's has no need to enter her garden and nothing will land or need to be retrieved from his neighbours side. Only thing that will fall on her side are a few leaves and maybe a handful of chippings....which is what normally happens with trees this time of the year. Unless i have read the OP wrong.

Aside from being a cantankerous old 'thing' I really don't see an issue. You are cutting off your branches from your side of the boundary and the branches and any other detritus are being roped directly back over to your side. If you are that concerned then rig up a go pro for the duration.

Crack on. Its your tree, and therefore your debris, which you are clearing up and you aren't trespassing by setting foot on your neighbours land. What reason would they have to object?

From a company called TriLink

Wasn't he the lead singer of A-HA?

Stihl Synthplus is Rheopectic...the opposite of Thixotropic. A Thixotropic fluid becomes thinner as it is agitated. For example, the last of the ketchup in the bottom of the bottle. What do you do to get it out? Shake it vigorously and if will become more fluid so you can pour it out. Stihl Synthplus chain oil is very fluid when poured and whilst in the reservoir, however once it has made its way to a rotating chain it thickens and sticks to the chain due to agitation and chain speed. The advantages are such, that the more fluid the oil, the quicker and easier it will get through to the chain via the pipes and pump

This is one of those, that someone with a lot of experience will just look at it and instantly see what the problem is. Very difficult to make any judgement as to the issue without seeing it....as all these differing suggestions elude to. Like they say, a picture paints a thousand words

Why not just buy the correct flywheel in the first place??

With respect, you should be wiser as several, including myself have advised either the stihl lighter bio chain oil specifically sold for your application, or the makita stuff which would appear similar. Those are the correct grade to use....as you have already found out by using regular chain oil which is unsuitable. The fact the correct stuff is quite expensive so you are unwilling to use it doesnt make you less well informed, just that you dont want to spend that kind of money. You should be a lot wiser now.

Nicking it you mean?

Whenever I hear Black Pudding mentioned it always reminds me of this sketch. About the 1.05 mark should do it.

More to do with dressing the bar rails to level them up on the top due to uneven rail wear...not the mushrooming on the side of the rails

We get quite a few smart arses collecting rotary mowers that have been in for service, peering underneath as we help load it up and telling us to unload it as we haven't sharpened the blade..........true the underside of the blade doesn't look sharpened...because you only sharpen the upper (hidden) side at the 30 degree angle required. I just tell them to lift the deflector flap up and peer inside at the blade and they will see it's been done properly. One guy wasn't convinced and even told us to sharpen the underside before he would pay!

Use a bench grinder........with 25 years of experience doing it.

If you can find one of these, they are fantastic. We have one in the workshop. Been discontinued from Oregon for sometime, but they pop up on the 'bay' from time to time. A lot of people don't even know what it is!