pleasant

You have to cater for the idiots and chancers. Putting in the description what may be the issue as to why a machine is for spares or repair is as nearly as good as stating it IS definitely the reason. I have had several of instances on various 'ebay' forums whereby a buyer has had a successful refund on a spares or repair item where the seller stated in the description 'compression feels fine, so I don't think that is the issue' When the buyer received it, the compression was far from fine. The seller genuinely felt he was being honest and helpful, but bit him in the backside. Best to state proven facts that cannot be disputed rather than opinions and subjective descriptions.

I echo (excuse the pun) what spud said above. I would add good, clear photos are a must. Give the saws a clean up first as well......apply 'bullshit spray' if you have any......commonly known as silicone dashshine/bumper cleaner/tyre shine, as the plastics will come up nice for the pics. A good description helps to sell.....an honest one sells better than a short cagey one. Offer postage if you have a box to put them or it in....you will always get more than if you list as collection only.

The flywheel shouldn't move on its axis. If you have 'play' instead of it being a tight fit, then this can throw the timing out. The timing is set by the keyway in the flywheel/crankshaft and is not adjustable. Seems too much of a coincidence not to suggest where the flywheel has come into contact with the contacts on the module it could have stalled the rotation of the flywheel and damaged the keyway?

What part of the country are you? Would be good to have as a source of spares in my game

Careful Spud...you don't want to have to give back your ten mill do you???

It isn't a black art if you know what you are doing...and it's a two stud MS250

OK. this is one of those problems that needs a 'hands on' approach rather than this type of 'is it this, is it that' sort of suggestion. Someone (maybe like myself) could take one look at it as say what is awry, but on this type of platform its not practical. Good luck solving your issue though.

It will get looser as it warms up. Metal expands as it gets hotter not tighter. The ms250 has two bar nuts BTW

It did. When I took it in to get the new clutch, I asked them to sharpen it, apparently they did not. So it still has a 'dull, dirty chain?' With respect.....your problem will definitely not be unique from my experience.

Get yourself a Hayterette.....its wider than the designated earlier Hawk graveyard mower but a similar design. Built like a barn door and will cope with hitting anything it shouldn't due to its 'swinging blade' design. Seriously.

...so did it have a dull, dirty chain??

New machines are set to run very lean to adhere to the latest 'euro emission' rules. Most manufacturers deliberately err on the side of caution and set their machines up on the production line so they run so lean that they barely run at all. They do this, so if they are spot checked by the relevant authorities to ensure they are complying with emissions then they know they will definitely pass. Part of our PDI criteria is to set them up to run properly AFTER a customer has placed an order. Once a machine has been purchased then euro compliancy is null and void you see, so you can over ride carb settings. This is why a load of online purchase stuff doesn't run well out the box as no one has done any carb adjustments. Buy from a dealer and they would have already run the machine up once ready for collection. Worth remembering that.

Unlikely as it's stated it will only run with the choke applied, which suggests lean rather than rich which would be a carbonated muffler or arrestor. Needing the choke fully or partially applied indicates it is scavenging for fuel and adding choke is artificially richening the fuel to air ratio. it is a carb issue and carb on these are notorious if they have been left with fuel in the system for any length of time. There is also limited adjustment...if any mix adjustment at all. That said, they are easy carbs to remove and work on, although a chinese pattern carb will be just as easy to cure the problem.

Hayter Hawk graveyard mower is what you need....although we are going back a bit, it is what they were made for:

In your top photo. To the left of where the throttle cable attaches is the black plastic 'butterfly' I was referring to in my earlier post. In the brass centre (if it has one) will be a minute plastic top hat shaped plug which will need removing to access the slot to adjust the fuel setting. It may already be missing as I suspect someone has already been at it, as you stated it has an oregon plug fitted. That isnt original....they came with chinese Torch branded plugs from factory. Someone may have already removed the plug. However IF there is some sealer in the hole then there is no adjustment in that area.

From memory you can, but the blade speed will then be incorrect for the blade design, as the gearing if different for a hedge cutter than its is for the hedge trimmer model and vice versa. You will also need to change over the gearing.

If your carb has mixture adjustment (like I said most didn't) then it will be in one of two places. Look at the top of the carb and note the flat black plastic part that moves as you apply the throttle. It will have what looks like a rivet which attaches it to the top of the carb. There will be a very small plastic plug in the top which can be removed with a pointy blade of very small screwdriver. If it has this plug, then it's good news as when removed look inside the brass part that is now exposed and you should see a very small slot for a very narrow bladed screwdriver. If you rotate this gently anti clockwise it will allow more fuel through and thus negating any blockages within the carb, which it would appear you currently have. If there is no small plastic plug, but instead there is some sort of sealer gunk in the hole then forget it as there is no adjustment in that area. Now look at the front side of the carb- the side facing towards the blades and on that side you may see a small 'plug' of a darker metal than the light alloy of the main body of the carb. Probably around 4mm in diameter. If you have, look closely at it and you should see a notch in one small area of this round plug. If it has, then this is your mix adjuster and you will need a 'pacman' type adjuster screwdriver for a couple of quid. Again once you have applied the screwdriver so the corresponding lug in the end of the screwdriver locks into the notch on the adjuster gently turn anticlockwise. If it has neither.....then just get a new carb of the bay for about £12.00 ....or just do that anyway!

It's a fairly newish generic chinese product. Marketed under various brand names such as, Mitox, For example: Mitox 60D Select Hedgetrimmer MITOX.CO.UK The 60D is a powerful, lightweight, double sided hedge trimmer, with a reliable 25.4cc engine and 68cm double reciprocating... Same machines were also marketed under the mountfield, gardencare and cobra brand names. (and homelite- as mentioned above) Wouldn't spend much money or time on it.....they never ran right when new....constantly needed the mix adjusting...and that's if the carb wasn't a fixed jet, which a lot were. Remember selling them for £149 (ish) and that wasn't long ago, so not great money.

Sorry, talking bollocks. Was thinking of an earlier model. Yours is transistorised ignition

They are a points ignition system....from memory there's an access hole to them around the flywheel area, although on some of these you had to remove the flywheel to gain access.

Don't mix up your fuel at 20:1 unless you have some really old 20:1 recommended dilution ratio oil for heavens sake. Get some modern semi or fully synthetic stuff at 50:1

I sold one few months back as a non runner..paid £50 for it. Spent an hour cleaning it and making it look ok for some pics, then sold it on for £125. They are big old lumps, not rare and not really desirable I'm afraid. That original Danarm bar on yours is worth nearly as much as the power unit. It's got good clear Danarm markings on it and would compliment a saw that has a really clean,working power unit. Don't see many with such a good condition genuine Danarm marked bar.

If you need a saw to earn you money and its your go to main saw, then best avoid the plastic bodied domestic range stihls.....i am referring to models up to the ms251. They are a domestic hobby saw and are not designed for the hours, use and abuse a saw that is used to earn money is. I will contradict myself slightly by saying the farmer range is the minimum you should be looking at in stihl...so the ms291 and 391. Same cheap plastic clamshell construction but designed for a bit heavier work, But heavy and power to weight is crap. Like others have said if it were my money the ms261 would be where i would start.

Ahhh....pity. Right at the other end of the country for me. Good luck though.

Where abouts are you. If you are near me I would be more than happy to cut it up for you. Gives me an excuse to fire up one of my big old school shelf queens for a workout.