pleasant

It's a brand new saw, and you are the only operator? Sustained low/zero compression due to piston/cylinder scoring and ring compression? Then the evidence speaks for itself I'm afraid. 2-strokes generally don't 'seize' They will still pull over but with little or no compression. The dealer has nothing to gain by stating it's been under oiled....in fact he will lose more by informing of this, as you probably won't have the repair done. Whereas, if it was deemed a genuine manufacturing fault under the warranty then they would get paid by the manufacturer to do the work anyway. Only time they won't get paid, if it's as a result of 'pilot error' and you don't want it repaired. They must be absolutely 100% certain the damage is NOT a result of a manufacturing defect in this case to inform you as such. From my experience none of my customers have EVER misfuelled a machine within it's warranty when there's been a major failure like yours...it's always been the machines fault! 😄

Like I stated earlier, the honda lump has a low rpm compared to an equivalent 2 stroke. So no good in a chainsaw enviromnent. The gearing in the brush cutter head allows for an increased rpm of the nylon line head to cut efficiently...if it were direct drive it simply wouldn't. In a chainsaw application. It would be a direct drive and therefore too slow to cut efficiently. The orientation of the honda and stihl 4 mix engines lend themselves to be used in an application that requires a different clutch layout than a chainsaw, so to develop a design for chainsaw application that would still have too low rpms, would be a waste of resources and money.

I won't hold my breath for many convictions. As with all new laws they introduce, they are only any good if enforced, and importantly and crucially IF there are any police officers to enforce them.....or can be bothered to. Mind you easy, soft targets seems to be the 'go to' places for forces to improve their crime figures, so with that in mind, I will have to contradict myself, and will no doubt see loads of convictions for this offence, while the more difficult job of catching burglars, rapists, robbers, vandals and the like will no doubt take a further back seat.

We have sold the AL-KO EKI2200 mains electric saws as a cheaper, but none the less superb alternative to the stihl MSE. Like the stihl this model has an inline motor, so well balanced and not so cumbersome as those that have the west to east set up. Oregon bar and chain as standard. Alloy main casing. Proper machine, well made and well priced. Ok not as cheap as an aldi special or the crap bosch offerings, but they don't pretend to be. Still cheaper than the stihl or other more 'specialist' names. A good saw

All fair points. One pro and con you may also wish to consider, which has cropped up a lot in conversation. Battery. Con No pre-warning of future operating issues Petrol. Pro Some pre-warning of iminent starting/running/performance issues prediminantly before machine packs up on a job completely. As a repairer, i have always been of the opinion, that dealing with warning issues- such as getting more difficult to start, irregular running, unusual noises etc etc are generally cheaper to deal with before it gets worse and a machine completely packs up. To me, that is a pro and con to seriously consider. Cordless stuff are like a light bulb...they either work or they don't. You can turn a working light bulb off..next time you go to turn it on it won't work. No pre-warning, no noise, no poorer performance- just doesn"t work next time you want it to.

True. My old stihl 090 max rpm is only 7 to 8k. But you have a 137cc lump with a LOT of torque. Won't cut fast, but not designed for that. Make for huge redwoods for example and will slowly chop its way through it with no snagging or bogging.

A short 10 or 12 inch bar with a lightweight chain going through small diameter pruning wood is a totally different performance requirement than say, sticking a 4 mix lump at 7000rpm in an ms261 with an 18" bar felling a reasonable diameter trunk. Wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

The main reason that there are no 4-MIX engines in a chainsaw is that they do not turn enough RPM's. Most 4-MIX engines run at ~7,000 RPM's while chainsaws run at 11,000+ This is especially important on a small chainsaw when limbing.

Dan, if they could improve a chain to eradicate those issues, then it would be here and now and on all saws...not specifically cordless. It would affect and improve all saws.

Well, you must charge by the time it takes (ie by the hour or day rate) otherwise how on earth can you accurately price a job........which you admit isn't accurate all the time, as you (and I quote) 'have a lot of 2pm work finishes too' First thing would be 'how long is this going to take and what do we need to get it done in that time?' and then factor in a percentage contingency.

Maybe you should be clearer when you appear to write triumphantly that you 'finish' at 2pm. If what you say is correct, then your aren't finished at 2pm are you?

That's true......but the customer was expecting a full day of employment. If I wasn't getting what I paid for then most rational people wouldn't re-employ them next time needed....or at least they wouldn't be first choice. You only rip someone off once- the public have long memories. Short term gain. And I repeat what I said in my earlier post......if I charge for 8 hour labour to fix his saw, and I finish it by lunchtime he's happy to pay for the full 8 hours after googling the correct time for the job? I would only get his business the once.

If you came to me and charged £1200 PLUS vat for a days work and buggered off at 2pm. You wouldn't be getting £1200 PLUS vat from me I can assure you. I would teach you how to price up a job correctly...and you would pay ME for doing that. How about you come to my place for a saw repair and I charge you 8 hours labour to fix it, for what is a 4 hour job? That would be OK with you...eh?

Correct. Battery performance actually drops off with each charge and is noticeable from around years two to three onwards. I don't know many users who would consider throwing out a two or three year old petrol saw, but i certainly know quite a few who would consider buying a new 'bare' body cordless machine if theres an issue with it compared to a repair..assuming their batteries and chargers are still fine, OR replacing the whole machine if it needs a new couple of batteries. Added to the fact the re-sale price of a used cordless saw is a lot lower than a similar priced and specced petrol saw, as buyers are put off buying used cordless stuff due to the uncertainty of performance or reliability. At least with petrol kit you can see hear and smell issues, so you do have a better chance not buying a pup. Not so with battery so much I rarely sell used stuff retail, but if I did I wouldn't sell a used cordless machine.....I have to offer a warranty, and I couldn't guarantee there wouldn't be an issue. And if there were, generally cordless issues tend to be expensive compared to petrol and that's my profit gone....and reputation.

Deffo run it and continue to do so for its life on aspen (or equivalent) as there are positive advantages to your saw if it hasn't been run on anything else- but stick to it whatever you choose either way- don't chop and change.

Look closer: Fits Earlier Stihl Kombi Pruner attachments as I said. Chain Sprocket 3/8'' Picco 7T for Stihl HT70, HT75 - 1206 642 1301 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Chain Sprocket 3/8'' Picco 7T Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1206 642 1301 https://static.stihl.com/baonline/01_473.pdf

Once you have committed to Aspen (or such like) on your NEW saw then you will be fine as the diaphragms within the carb etc wouldn't have been affected by having run on pump fuel. So, in a nutshell- start with aspen on a new saw and stick with it and you won't have issues.

Original pole pruner attachments for the Stihl Kombi system were a 12" bar with 3/8" low profile chain. Predominantly a 1.1mm, but there was an earlier time where it was 1.3mm (like the oregon 91vxl chain) Todays attachment takes the same length bar, but is fitted with the 1/4" 1.1mm picco chain

Absolutely correct...but try explaining that to a weekend warrior who's just come straight to you after buying a titan saw (other crap makes are available) from screwfix and the handbook poorly translated from Chinese into English states 40:1 recommended ratio. Nomally starts with 'I've just got a saw from screwfix and the handbook states I should use 40:1 oil' 'You won't find 40:1 mix oil....certainly in the UK. All decent quality oil sold by a specialist is now a 50:1 mix. A little goes a lot further than it used to in the old days of even 25:1' '...but can I use that at 40:1 like the handbook states?' 'No, long term it will be too rich and you will have issues' 'so what do I do?' 'You buy this, mix it at 50:1 ONLY, and it will run in any 2-stroke machine like yours perfectly- irrelevant of what your handbook says' '...but won't it know if it's incorrect?' 'It is not incorrect. It is correct ratio for the oil I am selling you. Look, it is the oil manufacturer who knows precisely the correct ratio for maximum protection and performance for their oil they have developed. Look at it this way- we service loads of different makes of machines....none come in with their handbooks, but the ALL leave here with a tank of what we put in- which is Stihl RED at a 50:1 mix and they all work fine. The only way your saw is going to know the difference in ratio, is if you don't put enough oil in or you put too much in. Eventually you will find out is been incorrect, and that will cost money to put right' 'so why does the handbook state 40:1?' 'because in certain parts of the world they are still using lesser developed oils, and they may well be using 40:1 still....but not in the UK' 'so how do I know to measure 50:1 ratio correctly?' '....here's a measuring bottle, and this is how you do it. £4.99 please' Spud, I am sure you can relate to that. 🤣

No worries 👍

I do, but I am embargoed I'm afraid

Yup.....I can vouch for that. Mind you, give it another 6 months and the AP300S/500S battery technology will be outdated and they will be on to AP400/600's such is the fact that manufacturers haven't reached the peak of development, and much like all electronic stuff, it's pretty much out of date once it's made it's way to market. Give it a few more years before investing serious money in battery kit unless you can write it down, as technical developments will take longer to improve and will gradually plateau.

My thoughts on battery power being 'green' and a 'better' alternative to what we currently have are well documented on here.

If you are in the woods with no power to charge then you will need two or three batteries OR a genny to re charge while you have some lunch. A genny defeats the object of trying to be 'green' and if you stick a genny onboard then you might as well stay with a petrol saw

I am not an agent for stiga anymore, because i don"t entertain chinese 'clone' saws masquerading under what used to be reputable brand names. I have tried to 'enlighten' you as to this particular saw in two of my previous posts. My views and opinion as to you original question i have answered quite concisely already.