pleasant

The cutters are the same width on a .325" chain irrelevant whether the drivers are 0.50 0.58 or 0.63. Certainly are on oregon...cant see others being different.

Accreditation demanded by councils simply allows suppliers to charge the tax payer more. Employees charged with procurement have little or no skill in what they are procureing, so introducing 'accreditation standards' allows them to cover their backsides as to why they chose a particular supplier if it all goes pear shaped. This is why councils can and have been charged 150 quid a time to change a 60w light bulb in an office......there's many examples of wasting money because council employees want the reassurance 'it's not my problem mate' if they only use approved suppliers or contractors......in the real world most of us would pick up a light bulb from wilko in their lunch hour and pop it in the socket...all for a couple of quid, but when its not their money they are spending its easy to set up schemes to rinse the tax payer through inflated invoices

So....it's all about CYA.....covering your arse. So if it goes belly up, you can say to your boss or insurance company 'well, I used an approved contractor' That's the reality

Agree....reading between the lines of said quote, i take it it's a cartel to price fix. Particularly where councils and my tax is concerned.

National Minimum wage for employees over the age of 23 goes up to £10.42 per hour in April

Yes, if moored and is you main residence

On the assumption tenders are identical, as a tax payer, I would hope the council using my money would go for the most competitive price, rather than accepting a higher quote simply because one tender is from an approved contractor scheme and one is not. Or is the objective to join the scheme to up your prices knowing the council are instructed to favour members of the scheme, because that is what you are saying between the lines.

Can be expensive..... Mooring With Us in Staffordshire | Great Haywood Marina WWW.GREATHAYWOODMARINA.CO.UK At Great Haywood Marina, we have 200 secured berths in the stunning West Midlands countryside. With shared water points... ..and that's just to moor there. Then you have additional fees for pumping out, electric, water supply etc (that's just the fees to allow you to use those facilities..on top you have to pay for how much waste is removed plus the electric and water) Then your normal stuff like heating, insurance and a load of maintenance. Plus it's always decreasing in value unlike bricks and mortar. It's the water equivalent of a static caravan

I think £700- £800 mark. Anything more is a bit punchy. It's not rare, it's ten years old, it's an obsolete model, it may be clean for one of these, but still been used professionally so done some hours. I just don't see it more than that. Currently two on UK ebay....both on for £1100 buy it nows, which haven't sold, and one of those you can make an offer on, and still hasn't sold. Both been on for some time. Then there's this one on a buy it now for £950...again not sold and been on for some time: Sthil MS880 36” Chainsaw Heavy-Duty Perfect Condition WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p>Sthil MS880 Chainsaw Heavy-Duty stihl ms 880 Chainsaw in excellent condition. </p><p>Well... Best guide is to watch a listing for one listed as an auction listing to get a better idea of worth...when one comes up in that format

Yes....indicative of the fact you had already answered the question posed by WILLC and I quoted what you had stated to him/her. Go back and you will see what I mean.

I hope you dont want to fell too close to the ground then?

'Now, if i take the bar off and loop the chain back on the sprocket and pull the chain back and forth, it is smooth as silk'

Muddy....I'm fresh out of pitches. Will a new chain suffice? 😇

Chain makes of the same size, pitch etc etc are interchangeable. Think of it like buying a new tyre for your car. Loads of different makes and compounds, but as long as you buy one the correct size to the original one you are replacing then all makes will fit. I am not quite sure what you are referring to with the issues with your chain. What I will ask though....has the chain recently been thrown off the bar? Is so, you will have burred a section of the internal drive links around the area that would have been located around the clutch sprocket. This will cause the chain to jam in that area in the bar groove when refitted. If you dont want to buy a new chain, then you will need to locate the burred drive links and file down the burring to make it safe to use. A chain that can jam in the bar groove will almost certainly come off again. If you want to check you have the correct chain to suit your sprockets, then remove the chain cover to expose the clutch sprocket and lay the chain around it without the bar fitted. You should be able to manually rotate the chain around the sprocket without it slipping or riding off. The drive teeth should locate correctly arould the corresponding teeth of the sprocket. Then do the same on the bar sprocket. Hold bar vertical off the saw with sprocket end uppermost in fron of you. Then fit the chain to the bar grove and sprocket tip...you should easily be able to manually rotate the chain around the bar and sprocket. The chain should remain in the sprocket tip teeth with no slip or lift.

On what basis did they decline to touch the saw? Was it because you didn't want them to fit a new cylinder?

On the ms211 are you referring to the bar stud that you are having issues with? If so, stihl produce an oversized thread repair stud, which simply cuts its own thread over the smaller one that has stripped.....providing you haven't boogered up what was left of it already trying to repair it with loctite etc Part number is easily on the 'net' just order it online or through your dealer. Stihl produce these bar repair studs for all plastic saws in their range. Here you go- stihl part number 1123 664 2405 Just take your bolts out, DONT DRILL out the holes as the above p/n are oversize and self tapping and are made to screw straight into the knackered holes. 5 minute job to fix with the above bolts.

Motor assembly I'm afraid

Motor bearings on the way out.

Yeah...job would be so much easier if it weren't for the customers ho ho

Got that clutch spring re fitted today so thanks to all. Put the coil spring over one of the shoes together with the centre hub, then clamped it in the vice so the top half was exposed. Managed to partially insert the second shoe under the spring and held that in place with mole grips....still in the vice. Then gently prised the remaining side of the second shoe under the spring. Job done. LIke you say, you need fingers like a bunch of sausages...which fortunately i have.....always a bonus....the wifes a bit wary of them tho .👍k

Hmmm....maybe. Like i said earlier igenerally don't say much. How about the classic ' may i have a new blade for my CHAINsaw?' 'Do you mean the bar....the long flat thing that sticks out the front of your CHAINsaw, or a CHAIN?' ' a new chain please' I' m not really being awkward, as i genuinely have had customers mean a bar, and if they come a long way to collect after we assumed its a chain they need and not a bar and we are out of stock, they arent too happy!

Yeah....I do understand. I don't like to preach, would rather advise and educate. Normally it's my weeked warriors that use the term stretch. I usually say something but don't dwell on it, but when they say will this oregon chain ive got from you stretch as bad as the chinese one on my screwfix piece of landfill, I then go into 'education' mode. 😇

Good man. Ho ho

Yup...i understand. But 'wear' and 'stretch' are completely different,