pleasant

Well, yes. The drive isnt disengaging so is in constant drive. Only four things can cause this. Firstly, like i said earlier the belt is jammed in the v pulley groove...through wear, or if it hasnt been used for sometime they can 'stick' secondly, the tensioning lever arm for the belt has jammes in the upwards position retaining tension of the belt. This is spring loaded and should release when you disengage the clutch lever on the upper handle. If it is stiff or seized it wont release as the spring simply isnt strong enough to pull the lever down and away from the belt. Thirdly, the belt may have jumped the pulley on the engine pto or roller and jammed the drive thus petting it in constant drive. Lastly if you have 'crimped' the clutch cable badly enough so the inner cable will not slide freely ....normally see this when people transport them and they fold the handle down and dont get the cables out of the way of the handle pivot point and it crushes the cables.

Just buy two of everything you buy from china when it comes to machinery- that way when the first one breaks down (it will) you will have the other as a supply of spares to fix it. 😅

Could be longer if you're into that sort of thing. 😅

This is right up my street....been waiting for a hayter walk behind question having been selling and repairing them for yonks. What is the model code on the silvered sticker on the body...i suspect it is the squarer chassis design....from the 480 series? Is it definitely a pro model with the briggs ohv intek engine, bull bar on the front and additional rear handle support brackets? The drive 'bar' on the handle simply should engage and disengate the drive to the roller. The other 'bar' is the opc....the one you let go to cut the engine. You should have a throttle lever on the handle which incorporates the cold start choke setting. Tortoise and hare markings are there to indicate fast and slow engine rpms....not roller drive speed as this is not variable....it is a fixed speed drive. Nothing you can adjust on any lever will alter the roller drive speed......ok sure, if you reduce engine rpms, then the drive will slow, as it is driven off the engine pto, but vice versa, it wont cut or collect very well at low rpms, so that isnt an option. The engine stalling without drive going to the roller tells me this is a lh side early pto engine. This will have a belt from the pto pulley on the left side of the engine routed back to a corresponding pulley on the lh side of the rear roller. I would suggest the belt has worn and dropped further down the v pullley than it should, so unless you allow the roller to turn to dissipate the pto energy from the engine then it will stall out. You appear to have a direct drive symptom -alllowing the roller to move whilst the engine is on idle removes the engine stalling effect. It may not be the belt....but they do wear as all belts do and they therefore slide further into the v pulley where they get stuck. However the tensioning lever on the underside that the clutch cable is attached to can also seize in the upwards....or engaged position, thus creating permanent drive. Where the tensioning lever pivots within the alloy chassis can partially seize due to damp grass and crud ' rusting' or corroding the alloy. Be careful if this is the case as you wont be able to undo the steel inspection plate bolts as they corrode over time in the alloy chassis due to the two metals reacting. You wont be able to get those sheared bolts out, so then you have a hole in your underside which fills with even more grass. I would advise you not to attempt removing those bolts. Try and release ithe jammed tensioning arm with penetrating fluid using a long thin nozzle.....dont force the pivot bush as it is bolted to a bracket which is part of the alloy throwplate and will shear right out the plate if forced very easily. Throwplates are now obsolete if it is a 480 series, .thus remdering your mower to be a push mower for the rest of its days.

They are a similar 'demographic' to her. As long as she 'fits' the area they will vote for her irrelevant. She could be effing useless (oh....hang on!) But it doesnt matter to her electorate as long as she ticks their box.

The original name of the company was jonereds....which changed later on to simply jonsered. There is nothing unusual on that saw...the name badge is correct

Logo looks normal to me. Whats weird about it? Admittedly i cannot zoom in for a really clear look

Errrr.....I wouldn't

Fuel/oil is lighter than water. Thats why we get oil slicks in the seas after a tanker disaster. It doesnt sink to the bottom. ...and more relevantly, that why your machines wont start if you leave fuel in them over wainter as the hygroscopic nature of ethannol draws moisture fromthe atmosphere and forms as water in the BOTTOM (being heavier than the fuel) of the tank, so the first thing your fuel pick up is going to draw on to start is water.

As an aside, when you state there is only 4.5 litres in a can of Aspen, are you judging that by the clear measuring strip on the side of the can? You do get containers apparently showing less that 5 litres, but this is because the plastic cans bloat outwards causing the level to drop. Once decanted into a more robust container, you normally find there is actually the correct quantity......or at least very near. Certainly not 500ml less. A manufacturer should take into account any loss of weight or volume from time of manufacture and packaging to time of sale (called desiccated goods)....therefore, Aspen in this example should effectively 'overfill' to offset any evaporative loss, although, I suspect they will blame the retailers storage conditions rather than their own measurements. However, like others on here have already mentioned I have never lost the quantity you mention you have to evaporation.

Agreed, but Aspen for example comes under 'packaged goods' law, which volume is determined at manufacture and packing, whereas fuel purchased from a filling station isn't, so 5 litres dispensed, has to be 5 litres.....no variables.

Not true.....the size and weights on packaging in the UK are 'at the time of manufacture and packing' which is designed to take into account variables such as evaporation- as in this case.

Mixing bottles aren't designed for actually storing fuel mix in hence why they 'leak like sieves' Had this 'complaint' probably no more than 3 times every year for the last god knows how many years.....and I sell 800 of them a year. It is a device for temporary storage whilst mixing small amounts for quick usage and/or for transferring into a machine

.....would like to know what exactly was defined as 'bullying' in the complaints they received. No doubt it will be misconstrued 'hurty words' or people being asked to do the job properly they are paid hansomely to do....or being told to 'pull their socks up' Nowadays if a manager asks an employee why they were 5 minutes late for work in the morning, the employee can state to HR that this questioning has brought on 'emotional stress' I remember many years ago my boss told me to get a hair cut as he though it was untidy and scruffy in front of customers. It wasnt, but hey ho. Anyway i got the length cut....a bit to keep him happy. I turned up for work monday morning and he said it was still too long. My 'colleagues' heard this conversation, and during my tea break they cornered me, held me down and took a pair of scissors to my hair and in doing so they cut my hand. I never reported them, as this was considered 'normal' banter and cameraderie at the time for an apprentice. I could have a field day with that nowadays.

..and in three years time you will need a new battery or batteries....current 40v version (36v now obsolete) for that model is nearly £200 per battery.

Whatever you use to lubricate the lower moving parts of your engine upon re-assembly, will be scavenged when the engine is hot and running, and will become part of your fuel mix vapour for a period until it is effectively 'burnt off'

I hope you have a really, really good reason to want to move to SE London....or Londonistan as its called around here. Stay in bristol is my advice. Sorry. Not very helpful re your question I know....but.

Depends like has already been said...application and length of usage. Generally a twin handled (or cow handled) brush cutter is used for more intensive use in larger areas where less precise control over what and where you are cutting is not an issue. You can use this type in a more of a scatter gun approach to cutting in large sweeps. As both handles are parrallel and located further up the machine shaft then a harness balanced machine will allow the operator to stand in a more upright position so less tiring and less strain of the back. You have to bend or lean forward to use a loop handle machine. A cow handled machine can and should be used with a twin shoulder harness....thus spreading the weight of the machine over both shoulders. However if precision cutting in a more restricted or confined area is required then a loop handle is better. You have more control as your hands are gripping two seperate balance areas so your control is more precise, and can much easier thread the head through tight areas between trees, plants and up against sensitive things like fances or walls. In the middle of a field....cow handle all day. A garden with obstructions then a loop handle. They are really two different machines for two different applications Hope that helps

We sell the really good cobra 650L chipper. Ok, its a domestic product that we sell for around £750, but thats still one, if not the cheapest chipper of this type for a domestic user....however based on price and quality we have sold a lot to gardeners....man in a van types, who like you dont want a full pro timberwolf etc, but something that will be used in a garden environment as part of occasionally used kit rather than full time use. Ok, its chinese, but it is very good and we have never had one back with an issue. Here you go; Cobra CHIP650L 3" Capacity Wood Chipper WWW.COBRAGARDEN.CO.UK They also do an electric start version as well as one with a draw bar for towing...but thats not for road towning use. Just around the garden.

My wife's went out years ago. 😟

Not sure if I agree with what you are suggesting there. Certain makes and models of hedge cutter purposely have a brake lever to prevent blade movement during starting and being transported from one area to another with the engine running. Echo have, Stihl do. The popular HS45 has for example. There is no mechanical 'brake' on hedge cutter blades unlike a mower, so you will always get a degree of 'run on' once the throttle has been released and the drive from the clutch has been removed through lack of RPM. Artificially tightening the blade clamping bolts to increase friction to stop movement, will cause unnecessary load on the clutch and engine to over come this extra resistance. Your blades should always move freely with little resistance.....if they don't over run when cutting in the dry, then that is normally because of varnish and crud build up between the blade surfaces. If you really really want to reduce (not stop) the length of over run time if it is an issue for you then check the quantity and quality of grease in the gearbox...or apply the blade brake (if you have one) From Page 5 of the Stihl HS45 operators manual: 'Note that the cutting blades continue to run for a short period after you let go of the throttle trigger – flywheel effect'

It's the idiots that come into my place and want to buy a new saw, mower etc and then say will it be cheaper if I pay cash. I normally say how so? They then come back and say something like, 'Well, with cash you can just stick it in your pocket' .....err, yeah, so how does that work then, when I have an invoice for it, and a bank account transaction to the supplier for the purchase of it? First thing tax man wants to see is either the stock I have purchased, or the money for it!!! Some people are right numpties. I normally say 'well, if you can find me a supplier who can sell me a load of stock with no purchase paperwork that I can pay cash for, then I may be able to do a cash deal for you' I normally get a blank look.

I agree....but the OP hasn't got that stuff....hence what I said. Given if you've already got the stuff, then you probably wouldn't be asking how to fix it or what to use anyway would you?

.....an new tank is £20, or a pattern one is a lot less. You can spend more than that on all these sealers and adhesives and still no guarantee they will work........or how safe the repair will be after. For that kind of money for a new one i wouldn't mess around with a repair. Doesn't make economic or time sense 😗

The 'own brand' engines are what they refer to as the EVC200 and EVC300 series, which are rebadged chinese Loncin engines. They decided to fit these engines as they are a lot cheaper than the Briggs equivalents these engines are the same series that are fitted to a multitude of entry level mowers.....such as b&q mountfields, a lot of the aldi crap offerings and other budget names. There are some differences in terms of choke operation etc, but they are essentially the same none the less. Would still have a Briggs engine compared to a Loncin anyday......at least if you do need to repair it, you can at least get briggs parts.