pleasant

Having been a dealer for efco and latterly oleo mac products for nearly 30 years, i can assure you the GSH range of saws from oleo-mac (which is what we are discussing) are chinese sourced with italian design input. The GSH range are specifically a budget home owner product for those who occasionally need a larger than normal saw. Both oleo-mac and Efco are the same company, selling identical machines under the different brand names in different parts of the world. Oleo-mac products were sold into the uk market In the 80s and 90s, then they re-branded the products (and colour) as efco for the uk and usa. Since covid lockdown the parent company decided to streamline the company and saw no sense in selling the same products under different names across the world. The decision was taken to drop the efco name and everything was re-named oleo-mac in those previous efco branded countries. This coincided with the introduction of the budget GSH range of products, which were introduced as a cheaper option to their solely italian made products, As for the efco mt3700, these are a completely different and earlier product range and are italian......ive been to the production facility in piano italy to see them being made. Again these are a budget home owner range made to compete with the stihl ms171 181 product, so it should come as no surprise that if you purchase one of these as a professional user you 'wouldn't want to run it as a pro all day' because thats noit what its for.

Yup...could be. Maybe just a gummed up needle bearing even?

There is a special tool to remove those limiters, but like has been said there are ways around this. Does the idle speed fluctuate...can you set up up fine, then after revving up does it need re setting again? Does it run fine otherwise? Erratic idle can indicate an air leak which if not cured will lean out your fuel oil mix and result in engine damage if not nipped in the bud early enough

Cost..and they are not based on copies of older designs either. It's cost money to ensure saws pass industry AV standards for pro use, not just in the UK, but also the world market. Not just the cost of development, design and parts but also the cost to have them additionally tested plus the cost of the tests. If you produce a saw for the domestic market, then it's not an issue if they don't meet AV specs for pro use. A domestic user isn't going to be using a saw for 8 hours a day either

I sell these, and for a pro user to say they are good given the work he's put it through, which is far and away more than its designed for, is good to hear. My most popular saw is the slightly smaller GSH510 with the 18" bar. A lot of saw for not a lot of money. They are only a domestic use saw with little pro user warranty, and are ideal for a home owner who has had a large tree felled that needs cutting into logs, or has had a delivery of larger than normal diameter logs. Chinese, but with a lot of italian input. I think they are good.

I beleive the same steel is used in the manufacture of chinese screw heads.

No one wants to receive a fine if they weren't driving so it should be self policing if you just have a simple drivers log book. If one of my colleagues tried to drive off in the van i had just been driving, with me still signed in as the last driver,. Then I would be bloody quick to make sure I had signed it over to him.

Honesty?

Ok

I used to go to school with Flex Hone....nice lad. Was best mates with Matt Paint, Mark Down, and some girl called Ophelia Balls.

That's a gouge....not a score in my book.

Hmmmm.... I wouldn't order a piston just yet. If you need a barrel as well, you won't buy one of those without a piston included, so if you buy a piston now, you could end up with two pistons and waste your money not using one of them. And here's the manual: https://www.hlsproparts.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/WM_40-44-340-344-444-1987_1018808-96.pdf

Crankcase air leak due to aged crank seals? If the piston and barrel are scored dont just change them before checking those seals.

Ideally 100psi minimum to at least have a chance of at least firing....a bit. A good, used saw ideal psi would be 125psi to 150psi. New or hardly used psi 160-175psi 90psi is too low to be healthy.....whip of the exhaust and have a look at the condition of the piston. Suggests wear / scoring to me. Incidentally, I have one in my collection. They are a good reliable saw and quite collectable. Working and nice they go for £150-£200 even as old as they are.

Not necessarily, although aside from consumable items, most parts new are obsolete from Stihl now. The duromatic bar and chain together are worth £25 alone. Chain cover...another £15, top cover, £20...there's £60 quid without thinking about it too much....even if those parts were still available new (I know the bar and chain are) they would cost a lot more than that so would still sell even if available new.

Ideally the carb should be ultrasonically cleaned out. Leaving it overnight in carb cleaner is A. quite corrosive and B. does nothing to remove blockages in ports, jets etc, which is if you do have carb issues is generally where your problems are.

I am a collector of older, rarer saws and sold my 031AV back end of last year to make way for a nice 048AV. I listed it on the 'bay' it wasn't pristine, but started and ran and was complete. I got £125.00 for it. That's about the figure you should expect. Anything cheaper is a steal for someone as they are getting more collectable. Give it a good clean and take lots of decent pics with a good honest description- and offer delivery as you will get more for it. Someone won't buy it to use it regularly- will be part of a collection as a shelf queen. As for £50....you will get a lot more than that if you stripped it and sold off the parts.

Ditto....

Yup....in the end, unless it was something external, I refused to work on them because you could never charge how much time it actually took you to get into it

It is certainly a mac 110. Difficult to know the exact year though, however there were subtle differences over the years of manufacture.. A new cluch from mcculloch is now obsolete, so you will have to find a NOS one on ebay or a good used one. They were a real pig to work on...particularly from a carb access point of view.

Yes, sorry. My mistake I got myself confused...it is ultra in the motomix. .....others however have said the super HP is actually a higher specced oil.

Because that's what Stihl do. They don't use ultra in their pre mixed motomix, so I have no reason to recommended an alternative oil if they don't. They seem to know their onions Personally I use ultra hp with pump fuel for my own use, but that's just me.

Good shout....you should feel it starting to 'skip' in the top of the thread when gently turned anti clockwise....then gently turn it WITH YOUR FINGERS clockwise. You will get a 'feel' for the thread. Once started to pick the thread up correctly, then use a lightweight narrow bladed screwdriver to wind it in. As said before....it should be lightly seated. Dont get it seated then give a quarter turn more just for good luck

According to stihl, the motomix and motoplus4 has a shelf life 'up to' 5 years. Obviously that depends on storage condition. I cannot recall how long the stabiliser in the green hp oil stabilises the mix for....I think its 2years. That is on the assumption you are mixing it with pump fuel. As motomix has hp oil added as standard, then when hp oil is mixed with motoplus4 it should be same shelf life as motomix, which is up to 5 years.....why anyone would buy a fuel they aren't going to use in its entirety for 5 years is beyond me though.

If you don't have any joy, and you want someone who could use it rather than not, then I am looking for one for mine to finish my resto. Obviously good luck if you find the original buyer, but if not let me know. Happy to cover your postage costs. Cheers