pleasant

I sell these, and for a pro user to say they are good given the work he's put it through, which is far and away more than its designed for, is good to hear. My most popular saw is the slightly smaller GSH510 with the 18" bar. A lot of saw for not a lot of money. They are only a domestic use saw with little pro user warranty, and are ideal for a home owner who has had a large tree felled that needs cutting into logs, or has had a delivery of larger than normal diameter logs. Chinese, but with a lot of italian input. I think they are good.

I beleive the same steel is used in the manufacture of chinese screw heads.

No one wants to receive a fine if they weren't driving so it should be self policing if you just have a simple drivers log book. If one of my colleagues tried to drive off in the van i had just been driving, with me still signed in as the last driver,. Then I would be bloody quick to make sure I had signed it over to him.

Honesty?

Ok

I used to go to school with Flex Hone....nice lad. Was best mates with Matt Paint, Mark Down, and some girl called Ophelia Balls.

That's a gouge....not a score in my book.

Hmmmm.... I wouldn't order a piston just yet. If you need a barrel as well, you won't buy one of those without a piston included, so if you buy a piston now, you could end up with two pistons and waste your money not using one of them. And here's the manual: https://www.hlsproparts.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/WM_40-44-340-344-444-1987_1018808-96.pdf

Crankcase air leak due to aged crank seals? If the piston and barrel are scored dont just change them before checking those seals.

Ideally 100psi minimum to at least have a chance of at least firing....a bit. A good, used saw ideal psi would be 125psi to 150psi. New or hardly used psi 160-175psi 90psi is too low to be healthy.....whip of the exhaust and have a look at the condition of the piston. Suggests wear / scoring to me. Incidentally, I have one in my collection. They are a good reliable saw and quite collectable. Working and nice they go for £150-£200 even as old as they are.

Not necessarily, although aside from consumable items, most parts new are obsolete from Stihl now. The duromatic bar and chain together are worth £25 alone. Chain cover...another £15, top cover, £20...there's £60 quid without thinking about it too much....even if those parts were still available new (I know the bar and chain are) they would cost a lot more than that so would still sell even if available new.

Ideally the carb should be ultrasonically cleaned out. Leaving it overnight in carb cleaner is A. quite corrosive and B. does nothing to remove blockages in ports, jets etc, which is if you do have carb issues is generally where your problems are.

I am a collector of older, rarer saws and sold my 031AV back end of last year to make way for a nice 048AV. I listed it on the 'bay' it wasn't pristine, but started and ran and was complete. I got £125.00 for it. That's about the figure you should expect. Anything cheaper is a steal for someone as they are getting more collectable. Give it a good clean and take lots of decent pics with a good honest description- and offer delivery as you will get more for it. Someone won't buy it to use it regularly- will be part of a collection as a shelf queen. As for £50....you will get a lot more than that if you stripped it and sold off the parts.

Ditto....

Yup....in the end, unless it was something external, I refused to work on them because you could never charge how much time it actually took you to get into it

It is certainly a mac 110. Difficult to know the exact year though, however there were subtle differences over the years of manufacture.. A new cluch from mcculloch is now obsolete, so you will have to find a NOS one on ebay or a good used one. They were a real pig to work on...particularly from a carb access point of view.

Yes, sorry. My mistake I got myself confused...it is ultra in the motomix. .....others however have said the super HP is actually a higher specced oil.

Because that's what Stihl do. They don't use ultra in their pre mixed motomix, so I have no reason to recommended an alternative oil if they don't. They seem to know their onions Personally I use ultra hp with pump fuel for my own use, but that's just me.

Good shout....you should feel it starting to 'skip' in the top of the thread when gently turned anti clockwise....then gently turn it WITH YOUR FINGERS clockwise. You will get a 'feel' for the thread. Once started to pick the thread up correctly, then use a lightweight narrow bladed screwdriver to wind it in. As said before....it should be lightly seated. Dont get it seated then give a quarter turn more just for good luck

According to stihl, the motomix and motoplus4 has a shelf life 'up to' 5 years. Obviously that depends on storage condition. I cannot recall how long the stabiliser in the green hp oil stabilises the mix for....I think its 2years. That is on the assumption you are mixing it with pump fuel. As motomix has hp oil added as standard, then when hp oil is mixed with motoplus4 it should be same shelf life as motomix, which is up to 5 years.....why anyone would buy a fuel they aren't going to use in its entirety for 5 years is beyond me though.

If you don't have any joy, and you want someone who could use it rather than not, then I am looking for one for mine to finish my resto. Obviously good luck if you find the original buyer, but if not let me know. Happy to cover your postage costs. Cheers

You can get fully synthetic brands in the uk, which are 100-1. Prosint is one can obtain if requested.

Agree, but a lot of tradespeople aren't used to communicating face to face it's either text or email which tends to be either back or white. Its not until you actually talk to a customer to get to the bottom of things and negotiate so all parties are satisfied. Regretfully this seems to be a dying art

Quote: 'Is it any wonder that people are using incorrect fuel ratios if the dealerships (which I think you are, but am happy to be corrected) can't get the sums right?' Well, with less alcohol inside me and a bit more time than I had last night, the exact figure to convert a 50-1 mix oil to 45-1 in 5 litres is 111.111ml, so yes you are correct to state 110ml to the nearest 5ml. My mitigating circumstances for quickly suggesting it would be 105ml are as follows; I was supping neat jack on a regular basis. It was a quick, rough fag packet calculation...albeit 5/6ml out. In 23 years of selling oils as a main dealer, no one has asked the original question, and if they had, I wouldn't have worked it out for them anyway, as I would have advised against it. So, no it shouldn't come as a surprise that I and no one else in my dealership would 'know the sums to get them right' as the question wouldn't and shouldn't arise.....we advise the correct, and not the incorrect fuel ratio as per the manufacturers instructions. Advising a customer as to how to 'incorrectly' alter the recommended ratio is opening a whole can of dealership worms as to liability, and we all know that customers never make mistakes and are happy to blame everyone but themselves nowadays The correct answer from my point of view, should be to always dilute it the way the manufacturer intended. That is correct in the first instance

Guy brings in a Stihl saw 'Do you service Stihl?' 'Yes we do. Is it an annual service, and is it running fine with no current issues?' 'Well, I lent it to my neighbour and now it won't start' 'Well, a service is normally for a working machine, and is designed to keep it that way. A service will cost you XXX, but if you have a pre-existing problem, such as non starting, then you could be looking at more on top of that figure' 'Well, don't service it then. Just get it going.........oh, and can you check the recoil coz it's squeaking, and stick a new plug in it- might as well while you have it, and sharpen the chain...and give it a bit of a clean up' (but DOESN'T want a service!!! 🤣) Get that all the time.