pleasant

We always attach the old carbs to repaired machines in a 'discarded parts' bag for the customer to inspect. The customer is then free to take parts home to inspect, or should they wish they can leave parts with us so we can recycle it correctly on their behalf. We have nothing to hide......although some dealers, and non dealers may. We actually prefer the customer to see the discarded repair parts upon collection as it helps them to understand what the issues were with the part or parts by showing them. Whereas the initial authorisation to go ahead with the repair would have been over the phone, this would be the first time to physically justify the customers expenditure in front of them. A picture paints a thousand words.....and saves a lot of explaining.

Been years since i was a husky dealer selling the popular 136 and 141 models. Been a stihl dealer for last 15 years, so my guys are unfamiliar with the husky. Just taken this 136 in and the clutch drum had worn right through allowing it to collapse and the long coiled clutch shoes spring has rode off the shoes. What is the easiest way to re fit it once the new drum arrives next week. Seems a tight fit...which it needs to be, but is there a knack before my guys are let lose on it with screwdrivers and pry bars! Cheers

So do the premium fuels. Read up on the esso stuff in particular...i dont work for esso btw. Just happens to be the only mainstream supplier of at the pump ethanol free

We now only fit new carbs as a whole....we introduced this when the e5 came out and were inundated with nonstarting machines not run dry whilst laid up. This got worse when the e10 came out in 2021. It actually works out proportionally cheaper for the customer to fit a new carb (obviously once we have established it is a carb issue) than it would be to remove it, us fit a diaphragm and gasket kit, then re fit, and find there are still running issues with it. We are potentially doing the job at least twice. I get it from a hobbyists point of view where time and labour are not an issue, but if i said to a customer it will be an hours labour plus a kit to overhaul your carb, and once re-fitted there still could be an issue, so you will have to pay again for us to remove it again compared to just over half an hours labour to fit a new, known working carb so it is right first time. Instead of take old carb off, re build it, put it back on, still issues so remove it again is a lot more labour than simply fitting a new carb first time. Labour for us is £44 per hour plus vat...so labour to fit a new carb and set it up will be around £25 plus the carb. Potentially an hour and a half or more faffing around with the old carb could easily be £60 odd quid and yiu still have an old unknown carb fitted. So £100 to fit a new genuine stihl carb with a warranty or £60 quid labour plus a carb kit and no guarantees another issue may soon arise. Extra £30 or £40 for piece of mind and warranty is worth it...not just for the customer, but also us as a company as 'come back jobs we don't earn on. I am quite happy to explain this and never had a customer since ethanol state he wants us to re build a carb. There's your answer why we don't re build anymore spud.

If you have an hour to spare, check out your local esso stations. A large number of them (but not all) sell thr esso premium unleaded, which is ethanol free, so no need for a load of stabilisers or aspen anyway. A quick google may well tell you of your nearest ethanol free esso station. I will check, but even if ethanol free, they do put e5 of the pumps so I believe Whose "E5" is really "E0" ethanol free? - Page 1 - General Gassing - PistonHeads UK WWW.PISTONHEADS.COM

I sold my own ms261 just before christmas on the 'bay' If it's any help, mine had only 4 hours use on it..2011 pre m-tronic. Pretty much as new...got £485 for it plus carriage. I had the option to buy a 2021 model from a customer for £500, so it was a no brainer. I can't make a comment as to which way you should go re the 400 but at least it gives you an idea of worth for you 261. A decently worded advert and loads of good, clear pictures will help your cause to get a good price.

The official line from companies such as briggs and stratton, honda etc is e10 pump fuel has a shelf life of around 30 days before it rapidly deteriorates. E5 is around 6 to 7 weeks. I sell briggs and stratton fuel fit and have for years since the introduction of e5. It does work and will prolong the fuel life, although if used with e10 then the doseage should be increased by 25% more than the dosage for e5, although you cannot overdose using it...will not go as far if you do. Aspen is fine in 2 strokes if you have used it since day one in your machines, but not recommended for use in diaphragm carbs that have previously been used for protracted periods on pump fuel. In your 4 strokes aspen will be fine irrelevant what you have previously been using.

Dan & Chris?? Did you mean me OP?

Alloy crankcase ideally would need replacing. Repairing cracks around the mount holes is nigh on impossible, and something like a bar stud needs to be 100% secure before you use it.

I hope you have check the cylinder block (no separate 'pot' on this engine) for scoring before you have ordered all those parts?

No it doesn't. It simply means the spring has lost a degree of its original tension to retract the rope. If this is a sudden difference in performance, I would suggest the spring is the issue. Springs can break in the centre of the winding, which is difficult to see once wound up in the housing, and means only a fraction of the spring is being used to retract the rope and handle. I would remove the recoil handle and allow the rope to lose all tension. Then lay the recoil housing flat, remove the circlip retaining the pulley. Lift the pulley up cleanly and slowly, whilst also checking the tail of the spring isn't caught in the pulley as you are removing it. Put on a pair of safety glasses or goggles whilst doing this to be safe.

Being a dealer, I have no experience in 'modding' machinery beyond stock, so I won't advise as to whether adding a big bore kit or what is involved in doing so is a good thing. Personally, if you have decided your issues are primarily piston and cylinder, then get those on order. You need to ascertain why there is scoring etc in the first place, as simply re-fitting new parts without finding the cause will simply mean the same issues arising again. I wouldn't aoutomatically replace the carb.....I would definitely try and keep the original one....just re-build it. There are a lot of rubbish carbs out there which can cause other issues once fitted....unless you bite the bullet and get a genuine stihl one for around £90. But, again a new carb and pot and piston won't cure an issue such as leaking crank seals, which could be the original issue...amongst others.

Just a footnote to my earlier comment. Remember, that if you think you can get away with just a piston and then find out your cylinder isnt any good, you cannot buy a cylinder on its own...they come as a pair, so you will end up with two pistons, one of which will be surplus and wasted money.

I would strongly advise removing the spark plug lead before pulling it over with you face near the chain and exhaust port....even if the switch is in the off position.

Well, not really...comes down to eye and experience deciding whether a cylinder is reusable. If you would rather not do the job twice and know you have a defined datum point, then my advice would be to replace both cylinder and piston as a matched pair. The pattern brands spud has mentioned are good and not overly expensive. As a dealer we would always fit as a matched pair (OEM parts only) as the customer would baulk at us charging him/her twice for doing the job if we find re-using a used cylinder with a new piston is not compatible. We need to ensure the job is right first time. If it's your time and labour it's not so much an issue. A meteor pot and piston set are good and not a fortune for peace of mind knowing both parts are new

Yup. Got a km94 power unit in from a pro user. Says it wont stay running and not revving up. Says he keeps changing the plug for new every other week. Will work for a week or so them back to square one. I took the plug out and was oiled up to boogery despit only a fortnight old. Checked the paper air filer and contaminated with oil fuel mix and crud. New filter and cleaned up the plug and away it went. Was running so rich with the clogged filter and was oiling the plug up.

Don"t need dealership names etc.....there is a reason to ask should there be any members that fit the description. Thanks.

Interesting to note, the adult (over 23 years) national minimum wage is going up in April to £10.42 per hour. Therefore the minimum the lowest of the low jobs have to pay for a 38.5 hour week (as an example) is going to be just shy of £21k PA. Puts doing a job with professional qualifications and experience into context. So if you have spent a fortune on training, got your tickets and are working in the pouring rain, or minus 5 ground clearing for £25k, for £4k less you could be in the warm with all the benefits of working for a multi national doing the most basic job in the organisation.....look at Tesco- they will be offering DAY time full time shelf stacking jobs after April for £11.50 per hour- £23k a year. Think about it. (I am, at my age!)

by 'adding' choke you are adding fuel, so manually overcompensating for a weak oil/fuel ratio. So, yes quite possibly an air leak. Same situation with machines that have been left for sometime with old mix in the system. Will start on choke- stalls as choke comes off. Indicates a 'blockage' in the carb, so enrichening artificially with the choke will overcome it

When you say 'checked the compression' what is the cold reading in psi?

Difference is spud....on the repair forums like this one, most of us know what we're talking about....and are qualified to do so. Whereas some of the other threads you mention.......😅

Get it to do exactly as you say again, but don't leave it for the 10 or 20 minutes before trying to start it again. I would suggest as soon as it plays up, undo the fuel filler cap and see if it improves without having to leave it. That's the cheapest and easiest bit of problem solving before going forward. Then let us know if it makes any difference

How long is 'a good while'? A few minutes, half an hour, an hour, a mornings work? Once it's started 'bogging down' does the cycle repeat itself, or once it's bogged down it will carry on in that state forever, or if you leave it for how long before it starts and runs fine before it repeats? When you say bogging down, does the chain stop or slow down to a crawl in the cut but engine rpm stay the same, or do rpm's increase with a stalled chain, or is it the engine rpm's that bog down thus slowing the rotation of the chain. When it does this can you take it out the cut immediately and will the engine accelerate normally straight away until you put it immediately back in the cut?

Pleasure. Good luck and thanks for getting back to us. Make sure you update us with progress...always good to know. 👍