pleasant

Look closer: Fits Earlier Stihl Kombi Pruner attachments as I said. Chain Sprocket 3/8'' Picco 7T for Stihl HT70, HT75 - 1206 642 1301 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Chain Sprocket 3/8'' Picco 7T Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1206 642 1301 https://static.stihl.com/baonline/01_473.pdf

Once you have committed to Aspen (or such like) on your NEW saw then you will be fine as the diaphragms within the carb etc wouldn't have been affected by having run on pump fuel. So, in a nutshell- start with aspen on a new saw and stick with it and you won't have issues.

Original pole pruner attachments for the Stihl Kombi system were a 12" bar with 3/8" low profile chain. Predominantly a 1.1mm, but there was an earlier time where it was 1.3mm (like the oregon 91vxl chain) Todays attachment takes the same length bar, but is fitted with the 1/4" 1.1mm picco chain

Absolutely correct...but try explaining that to a weekend warrior who's just come straight to you after buying a titan saw (other crap makes are available) from screwfix and the handbook poorly translated from Chinese into English states 40:1 recommended ratio. Nomally starts with 'I've just got a saw from screwfix and the handbook states I should use 40:1 oil' 'You won't find 40:1 mix oil....certainly in the UK. All decent quality oil sold by a specialist is now a 50:1 mix. A little goes a lot further than it used to in the old days of even 25:1' '...but can I use that at 40:1 like the handbook states?' 'No, long term it will be too rich and you will have issues' 'so what do I do?' 'You buy this, mix it at 50:1 ONLY, and it will run in any 2-stroke machine like yours perfectly- irrelevant of what your handbook says' '...but won't it know if it's incorrect?' 'It is not incorrect. It is correct ratio for the oil I am selling you. Look, it is the oil manufacturer who knows precisely the correct ratio for maximum protection and performance for their oil they have developed. Look at it this way- we service loads of different makes of machines....none come in with their handbooks, but the ALL leave here with a tank of what we put in- which is Stihl RED at a 50:1 mix and they all work fine. The only way your saw is going to know the difference in ratio, is if you don't put enough oil in or you put too much in. Eventually you will find out is been incorrect, and that will cost money to put right' 'so why does the handbook state 40:1?' 'because in certain parts of the world they are still using lesser developed oils, and they may well be using 40:1 still....but not in the UK' 'so how do I know to measure 50:1 ratio correctly?' '....here's a measuring bottle, and this is how you do it. £4.99 please' Spud, I am sure you can relate to that. 🤣

No worries 👍

I do, but I am embargoed I'm afraid

Yup.....I can vouch for that. Mind you, give it another 6 months and the AP300S/500S battery technology will be outdated and they will be on to AP400/600's such is the fact that manufacturers haven't reached the peak of development, and much like all electronic stuff, it's pretty much out of date once it's made it's way to market. Give it a few more years before investing serious money in battery kit unless you can write it down, as technical developments will take longer to improve and will gradually plateau.

My thoughts on battery power being 'green' and a 'better' alternative to what we currently have are well documented on here.

If you are in the woods with no power to charge then you will need two or three batteries OR a genny to re charge while you have some lunch. A genny defeats the object of trying to be 'green' and if you stick a genny onboard then you might as well stay with a petrol saw

I am not an agent for stiga anymore, because i don"t entertain chinese 'clone' saws masquerading under what used to be reputable brand names. I have tried to 'enlighten' you as to this particular saw in two of my previous posts. My views and opinion as to you original question i have answered quite concisely already.

Seems to be a bit of deja vu with your questioning and the stiga brand https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/124362-stiga-chainsaws-any-good/

Rest assured its not dolmar or makita....referring to your original question, that is and not that disc cutter

The 023 will have the same chain pitch size as the original bar and chain spec that would have been fitted to the stihl pruner attachment. Namely 3/8' low profile 1.3mm.oregon number 91vxl.

Its a generic chinese saw made to stiga spec. The recoil handle is a giveaway to start with, and then it goes on from there. The saw comes supplied with a file, which is always a dead giveaway its chinese sourced to those in the know. The crankcase alloy casting is most definitely chinese.

Just sold my own personal 2011 ms261 pre mtronic. 4 hours use since new. I bought it off the wife of an old boy who passed on a week after buying it. I used it for an afternoon taking out some laurel at my new house when we moved in. Been a shelf queen ever since. Would have done the op just fine. Never mind...i got a decent price for it locally, but there might be another out there for him

Yeah....according to Stihl, they have never made a faulty machine when it comes to warranty claims and paying out.

All fair points. Personally, I would have suggested the MS261 but the op specifically didnt want mtronic that was why I suggested the echo...despite its shortfalls

The Echo CS-501SX is a full pro spec saw with a pro spec engine ie, one with a removable head, thus without having to remove a clamshell type engine from the cradle, and no carb electronic wizzardry. Fits your bill and is excellent quality.

I don't have any up to date experience of Echo or Husqvarna, as I ceased being a main dealer for those brands more than 15 years ago and registering machines wasn't even thought of back then. The only other manufacturer that I am a dealer for, that insists a product sale is registered with them via a secure dealer portal is Hayter/Toro- again for the same reasons Stihl stipulate. Both systems work well, particularly if we have a machine brought in under warranty that we haven't originally sold and the owner has mislaid paperwork. With a recognised form of ID we can confirm ownership and crack on knowing we will be paid for our work. Sure, a manufacturer will get a lot of valuable marketing info via us registering machines, but unless we tick a box when registering a machine stating the customer is happy to receive marketing material, then it just doesn't happen and they are not bothered by the manfacturer or their associates Both systems work very well. We have had a few 'dubious' call from people with a nearly new Stihl or Hayter/Toro that they state are under warranty, but they can't find their receipt but can we look at it anyway? We point out to them a receipt isn't necessary, but proof of ID is that matches their details on the database before we can look at it, and we more often that not never see them bring it in. Is that because it's stolen- I don't know, but it could be a deterrent to bringing them in, rather than a deterrent having them stolen in the first place. Authorities do/should know about these invaluable databases held by manufacturers, and the help they provide tracking owners. Your database is a good idea, but I can see members being concerned as to the security of their details and the possible misuse of their data. Admittedly that could be no different from what could happen from a manufacturer, but at least there's a good reason to register a product (the warranty) and manufacturers are held to a legal account regarding data. If a machine is out of warranty and insured, then stolen, it probably has paid for itself and been written down to nothing on the books anyway (I am not referring to large plant here- more your mowers and hand held stuff- the most popular stuff that is lifted) so after three years or more, if it's nicked it's not quite a big deal aside from inconvenience. lets' be honest we rarely get emotionally attached to a chainsaw (well some might) which could be another mitigating factor to register it with you.

As a Stihl dealer we are required as part of our agreement to register all new machines via its unique serial number to the ORIGINAL purchaser with Stihl on a dealer only secure portal. This not only registers the machine for warranty purposes (so you don't need a receipt if you take it back with an issue OR you do have an issue but take in back to the non supplying dealer- again without a receipt, although proof of ID will be required that matches the details on the Stihl database in all cases where a receipt is not available) but also allows for customers to be notified of any safety issues/recalls. This is an EU directive and operates much like car recalls. It is also used by authorised parties to establish ownership- such as the police, should equipment be retrieved. For these reasons IF you decide to purchase online OR purchase a new machine via online auction sites, DON'T be fobbed off by the retailer/seller stating it is up to YOU to register it. It is NOT the consumers responsibility- indeed the portal and means to register is NOT accessible to the public. You may save £100 or so by buying a new machine from an auction site, but come problems it WON'T be registered and warranty is voided. As a dealer we are incentivised via a rebate to register machines, and it is worth noting warranty is NOT transferable- no matter what an online seller selling a nearly new machine will tell you.

Never use outboard 2 stroke oil. It is not the same as air cooled stuff specifically for our type of machinery. Husky oil is a 50:1 mix and not 40. Only thing I didnt read in your post was did you try and start if with the muffler off whilst you were checking the piston? I know you said you removed the spark arrestor, but if it's run on a rich mix then the muffler could be clogged and not allowing the engine to 'breathe' Try that before buying a new module etc

I got my wife a pair of slipper and a dildo for christmas. If she doesn't like the slippers, she can go and f**k herself! 😀👍

True. I don't get much of the really big stuff in. Most of mine is domestic stuff from the weekend warriors or entry level pro stuff from the man in a van gardener trade. I generally get two or three of those in a year lacking power and smoking a lot. Remove the exhaust and away it goes....constant use with an overly rich mix simply clogs the muffler so it can't breathe. Tend to be the old grumbler gardeners who still think you can get 25:1 pre mix from an esso pump dispenser at the petrol station. When they realise they can't they then buy some 50:1 stuff from me and run it for three months at 25:1. Then i see them

25:1 oil......jeez, is that some old stock they're using. I haven't sold 25:1 mix oil for well over 20 years in the UK. All the decent stuff is 50:1 and the even more decent stuff it up to 100:1

Years ago me and a mate heard about a local dogging site...never been to one before, so one night after the pub kicked out we thought we would have a drive down, park up and watch some action. We arrived, and to check we had gone to the right place I turned the interior light on so I could read the address I had on a piece of paper....within 2 minutes my car was surrounded by four or five blokes peering in. Apparently turning the interior light on is a signal to doggers to come over and I later found out it was a gay haunt, so they naturally assumed me and my mate were going to put a show on for them!