pleasant

Yeah.....this one's a classic. Think about what you are actually saying to the person you really need help from before you use this one, but I bet a load of you do! 'I've been everywhere.....you're my last chance' Think about how that sounds for a moment. I hear that a lot and people really don't realise what they are saying.

True.....i regularly get phone calls along these lines, and tell them to bring it in and show me because after a minute or so of a customer self diagnosing I tend to glaze over. Once you have it in front of you, even with the customer rabbiting in your ear you can quietly visually analyse it and come to a conclusion before the customer has finished talking. Personally i dont like taking machinery on that a weekend warrior has had a go at, as you have to check what they have done...put that right, before you can find the original issue. 'It's not starting' 'Ok, have you done anything to it? Whats the history? Well, it was working and now it doesn't and I've played around with those screws on the side near the carburettor i think' 'Jeez.....ruddy marvellous' 🙄

I haven't read the whole of the comments on here, but reading your last comment (above) is it flooding the combustion chamber? Popping the decomp valve out without starting plus all the other symptoms you have listed above suggest it is flooding somewhere...or is very very rich. The flywheel rotating backwards on the compression stroke could suggest the same......return pressure trying to compress a liquid?

Yes..let us know how you get on.

Yes.....all working fine whislt its gradually failing in use, then once saw is stopped the soft plastic hardens up and seizes the drum and clutch mechanism so next time you go to use it, its seized

Crank/drum bearing seized

A chainsaw chain is a 'blade' the answer is 'how long is a piece of string' You sharpen it when it gets dull or blunt......there are no specific times to it happening, just re-sharpen when needed. When a chain is working well, the saw will cut easily, requiring very little force from yourself. The saw must always produce large chips of wood (never saw dust). The time to file the chain is when you need to push the chain to make it cut. If you at this point examine the cutting edge of the chain, it may appear sharp (this is not good enough). IT MUST BE RAZOR SHARP. If you can see a line of light on the cutting edge THIS IS BLUNT!!! All saw chain teeth are chrome plated. (A very thin hard chrome plating is bonded to the surface of the cutter). It's this thin hard chrome edge that does all the work (when you lose this edge, the cutting performance rapidly drops off). To keep the chain at its peak, you must keep filing (more than you think). People always ask how long a chain will last between sharpenings. Somewhere between 30 seconds and 3 months!!! If you are cutting very near the ground, or rolled muddy logs, (or foolishly roots of a tree) - 30 seconds. Joiners cutting clean planed soft wood - about 3 months.

buy yourself a dinghy, destroy your passport and apply a swarthy complexion...then push off from any beach in france and within a day or so you will have your own personal translator paid for by the uk taxpayer. 🙄

'A 660 shipped from the far east for £700-£800. They are only 100 quid at most boot fairs or pub carparks...about the price of the carriage you paid. 🤣

Well, if we want to get technical about these things, then you cannot possibly have a ride on tractor. In the mower world (and im talking about domestic use stuff like your bolens) a tractor mower is one that has its engine in front of the operator in the traditional layout and look of a farming tractor. A ride on mower on the other hand, is one whereby your seat is mounted above the engine (or in that general area) so effectively you 'ride-on' the engine. Thats the basic difference.....helps when you are trying to sell different machines and everyone comes in and asks foir a tractor mower, when in reality they want a little ride on thing

Well, yes. The drive isnt disengaging so is in constant drive. Only four things can cause this. Firstly, like i said earlier the belt is jammed in the v pulley groove...through wear, or if it hasnt been used for sometime they can 'stick' secondly, the tensioning lever arm for the belt has jammes in the upwards position retaining tension of the belt. This is spring loaded and should release when you disengage the clutch lever on the upper handle. If it is stiff or seized it wont release as the spring simply isnt strong enough to pull the lever down and away from the belt. Thirdly, the belt may have jumped the pulley on the engine pto or roller and jammed the drive thus petting it in constant drive. Lastly if you have 'crimped' the clutch cable badly enough so the inner cable will not slide freely ....normally see this when people transport them and they fold the handle down and dont get the cables out of the way of the handle pivot point and it crushes the cables.

Just buy two of everything you buy from china when it comes to machinery- that way when the first one breaks down (it will) you will have the other as a supply of spares to fix it. 😅

Could be longer if you're into that sort of thing. 😅

This is right up my street....been waiting for a hayter walk behind question having been selling and repairing them for yonks. What is the model code on the silvered sticker on the body...i suspect it is the squarer chassis design....from the 480 series? Is it definitely a pro model with the briggs ohv intek engine, bull bar on the front and additional rear handle support brackets? The drive 'bar' on the handle simply should engage and disengate the drive to the roller. The other 'bar' is the opc....the one you let go to cut the engine. You should have a throttle lever on the handle which incorporates the cold start choke setting. Tortoise and hare markings are there to indicate fast and slow engine rpms....not roller drive speed as this is not variable....it is a fixed speed drive. Nothing you can adjust on any lever will alter the roller drive speed......ok sure, if you reduce engine rpms, then the drive will slow, as it is driven off the engine pto, but vice versa, it wont cut or collect very well at low rpms, so that isnt an option. The engine stalling without drive going to the roller tells me this is a lh side early pto engine. This will have a belt from the pto pulley on the left side of the engine routed back to a corresponding pulley on the lh side of the rear roller. I would suggest the belt has worn and dropped further down the v pullley than it should, so unless you allow the roller to turn to dissipate the pto energy from the engine then it will stall out. You appear to have a direct drive symptom -alllowing the roller to move whilst the engine is on idle removes the engine stalling effect. It may not be the belt....but they do wear as all belts do and they therefore slide further into the v pulley where they get stuck. However the tensioning lever on the underside that the clutch cable is attached to can also seize in the upwards....or engaged position, thus creating permanent drive. Where the tensioning lever pivots within the alloy chassis can partially seize due to damp grass and crud ' rusting' or corroding the alloy. Be careful if this is the case as you wont be able to undo the steel inspection plate bolts as they corrode over time in the alloy chassis due to the two metals reacting. You wont be able to get those sheared bolts out, so then you have a hole in your underside which fills with even more grass. I would advise you not to attempt removing those bolts. Try and release ithe jammed tensioning arm with penetrating fluid using a long thin nozzle.....dont force the pivot bush as it is bolted to a bracket which is part of the alloy throwplate and will shear right out the plate if forced very easily. Throwplates are now obsolete if it is a 480 series, .thus remdering your mower to be a push mower for the rest of its days.

They are a similar 'demographic' to her. As long as she 'fits' the area they will vote for her irrelevant. She could be effing useless (oh....hang on!) But it doesnt matter to her electorate as long as she ticks their box.

The original name of the company was jonereds....which changed later on to simply jonsered. There is nothing unusual on that saw...the name badge is correct

Logo looks normal to me. Whats weird about it? Admittedly i cannot zoom in for a really clear look

Errrr.....I wouldn't

Fuel/oil is lighter than water. Thats why we get oil slicks in the seas after a tanker disaster. It doesnt sink to the bottom. ...and more relevantly, that why your machines wont start if you leave fuel in them over wainter as the hygroscopic nature of ethannol draws moisture fromthe atmosphere and forms as water in the BOTTOM (being heavier than the fuel) of the tank, so the first thing your fuel pick up is going to draw on to start is water.

As an aside, when you state there is only 4.5 litres in a can of Aspen, are you judging that by the clear measuring strip on the side of the can? You do get containers apparently showing less that 5 litres, but this is because the plastic cans bloat outwards causing the level to drop. Once decanted into a more robust container, you normally find there is actually the correct quantity......or at least very near. Certainly not 500ml less. A manufacturer should take into account any loss of weight or volume from time of manufacture and packaging to time of sale (called desiccated goods)....therefore, Aspen in this example should effectively 'overfill' to offset any evaporative loss, although, I suspect they will blame the retailers storage conditions rather than their own measurements. However, like others on here have already mentioned I have never lost the quantity you mention you have to evaporation.

Agreed, but Aspen for example comes under 'packaged goods' law, which volume is determined at manufacture and packing, whereas fuel purchased from a filling station isn't, so 5 litres dispensed, has to be 5 litres.....no variables.

Not true.....the size and weights on packaging in the UK are 'at the time of manufacture and packing' which is designed to take into account variables such as evaporation- as in this case.

Mixing bottles aren't designed for actually storing fuel mix in hence why they 'leak like sieves' Had this 'complaint' probably no more than 3 times every year for the last god knows how many years.....and I sell 800 of them a year. It is a device for temporary storage whilst mixing small amounts for quick usage and/or for transferring into a machine

.....would like to know what exactly was defined as 'bullying' in the complaints they received. No doubt it will be misconstrued 'hurty words' or people being asked to do the job properly they are paid hansomely to do....or being told to 'pull their socks up' Nowadays if a manager asks an employee why they were 5 minutes late for work in the morning, the employee can state to HR that this questioning has brought on 'emotional stress' I remember many years ago my boss told me to get a hair cut as he though it was untidy and scruffy in front of customers. It wasnt, but hey ho. Anyway i got the length cut....a bit to keep him happy. I turned up for work monday morning and he said it was still too long. My 'colleagues' heard this conversation, and during my tea break they cornered me, held me down and took a pair of scissors to my hair and in doing so they cut my hand. I never reported them, as this was considered 'normal' banter and cameraderie at the time for an apprentice. I could have a field day with that nowadays.