pleasant

Ture....will only cut for ten minutes, but your hands will be nice and warm whilst it runs out of charge. 😀

Agree.....people forget there are main chainsaws around. Like the Husky, the Stihl offering is also very good. Well made, reliable and will cut all day if you want it to....none of the weight of a petrol, or smell or or noise or hassle mixing fuel, or storage of it, or starting and maintenance, no expensive battery to replace WHEN it fails in a few years, and no down time due to battery life and re-charge time. In fact IF you have a power source and it's domestic use, then corded it a good option. Has all the advantages over both petrol and battery, with only the mains lead to worry about

That bird that won it was well and truly off her tits on something. When she was 'interviewed' halfway through the voting process by that professional airhead aleisha dixon, i think they reaslised and quickly moved on.

In your opinion what do you consider 'decent battery life?' I mean....even the most basic stihl msa120 has a CONSTANT run time of 20 minutes......20 minutes I hear you say- that's nothing!!! So lets break that down...that is constant run time. Stihl calculate amount of cuts per charge based on cutting 10cm x 10cm square new wood.....such as a fence post. How long to make one cut through that with a sharp chain....5 secs 10 secs...even maybe 15 secs. Lets say 15 secs per cut being generous. So thats 4 cuts per minute. 4 x 20 = 80 cuts mimimum...nearer 100 if we lower the cuts time from the generous 15 secs per cut. Therefore on a small domestic little saw like that why would you need more run time? Its perfect for the use it is designed for...even though initially 20 mins run time sounds pitiful.

I figured the op was referring to the length thanm diameter...but you may well be right

Well, it would be unusual if it wasn't the 340 series TBH, but like I say all the pins are identical.

No, don't use generic ones- use the right ones. They are readily available and are not expensive... doesn't make sense to me to cut corners when this is a pain in the backside job to have to do again if they fail. Part number you need is 03997. They are all the same pin used in the PTO components, so maybe someone has had a go at yours already. I am assuming yours is the 340 series? Note your serial number on the sticker on the body and it will tell you....if it is, then they are definitely that part number and are all the same.

There are two seperate pins...one in one end of the connecting tube and one the other. The end of the connecting tube nearest the engine is a pig of a job to get at. Most likely you will need to loosen the three engine mounting bolts to get better access if that one need replacing. If it is still there and part of it has simply worked its way out, then if you can, knock it back in flush with a drift and then thread strong locking wire down the centre of it and wrap around the connecting tube...this will prevent it falling all the way out in future and will save you having to replace it now. If it is missing or you feel you need to replace it, then ideally yes remove the engine for access BUT I guarantee you won't get off the large metal friction disc on the underside between the blade and the engine...they weld themselves to the crankshaft over time, which means you won't be able to remove the engine fully. Like I say, you can just access the three bolt heads behind it enough to loosen them to give some clearance. If it is the outer roll pin you need to replace, then that can pretty much be done in situ- however if there is any of the old pin remaining in the hole, don't do what most people do and punch it out from the top down, as it will have nowhere for the broken part to come out the otherside and will lock the pulley against the chassis so you wont be able to move it......unless you loosen the engine bolts for clearance. Best punch it through at an offset angle so it can just drop out the other side. Also be careful punching these pin in or out too hard....it is very easy to shear off the pto shaft flush with the engine...these parts are obsolete, so if you do it will be scrap. I used to charge just over an hours labour (assuming it all went to plan) for this job, and people couldn't understand why it cost so much just to replace two pins. When I said I had to take the engine off to do it, they didn't beleive me!

That is quite an old model harrier 56 with the side pto drive...got to be at least 20 years old now, as the side pto briggs engines were discountinued at least that time ago, to the more popular briggs engines without a pto and the drive taken from a pulley on the crankshaft like 99% of mowers we see today. The side pto engine drive mechanism was very reliable as it was a very simple set up. Yes, the pulley on the left side of the engine is a direct drive...so all the while the engine is running, the pulley is rotating. If your pulley stops rotating when there is roller resistance such as simply placing the weight of the mower on the ground, then this suggests to me one or both of the roll pins that secure the pulley and spacer tube to the pto shaft have either fallen out or sheared off allowing the pully to rotate independent from the pto shaft. The pulley is a tight fit on the pto shaft so it may well rotate when not under any load...which is what you have mentioned. Part number for the roll pins is 03997. I suspect this is definitely your issue..it was not an unusual problem especially on older machines due to fatigue of the pins. Look at that first, then come back to me if you are convinced they are fine.

Yeah.....this one's a classic. Think about what you are actually saying to the person you really need help from before you use this one, but I bet a load of you do! 'I've been everywhere.....you're my last chance' Think about how that sounds for a moment. I hear that a lot and people really don't realise what they are saying.

True.....i regularly get phone calls along these lines, and tell them to bring it in and show me because after a minute or so of a customer self diagnosing I tend to glaze over. Once you have it in front of you, even with the customer rabbiting in your ear you can quietly visually analyse it and come to a conclusion before the customer has finished talking. Personally i dont like taking machinery on that a weekend warrior has had a go at, as you have to check what they have done...put that right, before you can find the original issue. 'It's not starting' 'Ok, have you done anything to it? Whats the history? Well, it was working and now it doesn't and I've played around with those screws on the side near the carburettor i think' 'Jeez.....ruddy marvellous' 🙄

I haven't read the whole of the comments on here, but reading your last comment (above) is it flooding the combustion chamber? Popping the decomp valve out without starting plus all the other symptoms you have listed above suggest it is flooding somewhere...or is very very rich. The flywheel rotating backwards on the compression stroke could suggest the same......return pressure trying to compress a liquid?

Yes..let us know how you get on.

Yes.....all working fine whislt its gradually failing in use, then once saw is stopped the soft plastic hardens up and seizes the drum and clutch mechanism so next time you go to use it, its seized

Crank/drum bearing seized

A chainsaw chain is a 'blade' the answer is 'how long is a piece of string' You sharpen it when it gets dull or blunt......there are no specific times to it happening, just re-sharpen when needed. When a chain is working well, the saw will cut easily, requiring very little force from yourself. The saw must always produce large chips of wood (never saw dust). The time to file the chain is when you need to push the chain to make it cut. If you at this point examine the cutting edge of the chain, it may appear sharp (this is not good enough). IT MUST BE RAZOR SHARP. If you can see a line of light on the cutting edge THIS IS BLUNT!!! All saw chain teeth are chrome plated. (A very thin hard chrome plating is bonded to the surface of the cutter). It's this thin hard chrome edge that does all the work (when you lose this edge, the cutting performance rapidly drops off). To keep the chain at its peak, you must keep filing (more than you think). People always ask how long a chain will last between sharpenings. Somewhere between 30 seconds and 3 months!!! If you are cutting very near the ground, or rolled muddy logs, (or foolishly roots of a tree) - 30 seconds. Joiners cutting clean planed soft wood - about 3 months.

buy yourself a dinghy, destroy your passport and apply a swarthy complexion...then push off from any beach in france and within a day or so you will have your own personal translator paid for by the uk taxpayer. 🙄

'A 660 shipped from the far east for £700-£800. They are only 100 quid at most boot fairs or pub carparks...about the price of the carriage you paid. 🤣

Well, if we want to get technical about these things, then you cannot possibly have a ride on tractor. In the mower world (and im talking about domestic use stuff like your bolens) a tractor mower is one that has its engine in front of the operator in the traditional layout and look of a farming tractor. A ride on mower on the other hand, is one whereby your seat is mounted above the engine (or in that general area) so effectively you 'ride-on' the engine. Thats the basic difference.....helps when you are trying to sell different machines and everyone comes in and asks foir a tractor mower, when in reality they want a little ride on thing

Well, yes. The drive isnt disengaging so is in constant drive. Only four things can cause this. Firstly, like i said earlier the belt is jammed in the v pulley groove...through wear, or if it hasnt been used for sometime they can 'stick' secondly, the tensioning lever arm for the belt has jammes in the upwards position retaining tension of the belt. This is spring loaded and should release when you disengage the clutch lever on the upper handle. If it is stiff or seized it wont release as the spring simply isnt strong enough to pull the lever down and away from the belt. Thirdly, the belt may have jumped the pulley on the engine pto or roller and jammed the drive thus petting it in constant drive. Lastly if you have 'crimped' the clutch cable badly enough so the inner cable will not slide freely ....normally see this when people transport them and they fold the handle down and dont get the cables out of the way of the handle pivot point and it crushes the cables.

Just buy two of everything you buy from china when it comes to machinery- that way when the first one breaks down (it will) you will have the other as a supply of spares to fix it. 😅

Could be longer if you're into that sort of thing. 😅

This is right up my street....been waiting for a hayter walk behind question having been selling and repairing them for yonks. What is the model code on the silvered sticker on the body...i suspect it is the squarer chassis design....from the 480 series? Is it definitely a pro model with the briggs ohv intek engine, bull bar on the front and additional rear handle support brackets? The drive 'bar' on the handle simply should engage and disengate the drive to the roller. The other 'bar' is the opc....the one you let go to cut the engine. You should have a throttle lever on the handle which incorporates the cold start choke setting. Tortoise and hare markings are there to indicate fast and slow engine rpms....not roller drive speed as this is not variable....it is a fixed speed drive. Nothing you can adjust on any lever will alter the roller drive speed......ok sure, if you reduce engine rpms, then the drive will slow, as it is driven off the engine pto, but vice versa, it wont cut or collect very well at low rpms, so that isnt an option. The engine stalling without drive going to the roller tells me this is a lh side early pto engine. This will have a belt from the pto pulley on the left side of the engine routed back to a corresponding pulley on the lh side of the rear roller. I would suggest the belt has worn and dropped further down the v pullley than it should, so unless you allow the roller to turn to dissipate the pto energy from the engine then it will stall out. You appear to have a direct drive symptom -alllowing the roller to move whilst the engine is on idle removes the engine stalling effect. It may not be the belt....but they do wear as all belts do and they therefore slide further into the v pulley where they get stuck. However the tensioning lever on the underside that the clutch cable is attached to can also seize in the upwards....or engaged position, thus creating permanent drive. Where the tensioning lever pivots within the alloy chassis can partially seize due to damp grass and crud ' rusting' or corroding the alloy. Be careful if this is the case as you wont be able to undo the steel inspection plate bolts as they corrode over time in the alloy chassis due to the two metals reacting. You wont be able to get those sheared bolts out, so then you have a hole in your underside which fills with even more grass. I would advise you not to attempt removing those bolts. Try and release ithe jammed tensioning arm with penetrating fluid using a long thin nozzle.....dont force the pivot bush as it is bolted to a bracket which is part of the alloy throwplate and will shear right out the plate if forced very easily. Throwplates are now obsolete if it is a 480 series, .thus remdering your mower to be a push mower for the rest of its days.

They are a similar 'demographic' to her. As long as she 'fits' the area they will vote for her irrelevant. She could be effing useless (oh....hang on!) But it doesnt matter to her electorate as long as she ticks their box.