pleasant

Agreed, but Aspen for example comes under 'packaged goods' law, which volume is determined at manufacture and packing, whereas fuel purchased from a filling station isn't, so 5 litres dispensed, has to be 5 litres.....no variables.

Not true.....the size and weights on packaging in the UK are 'at the time of manufacture and packing' which is designed to take into account variables such as evaporation- as in this case.

Mixing bottles aren't designed for actually storing fuel mix in hence why they 'leak like sieves' Had this 'complaint' probably no more than 3 times every year for the last god knows how many years.....and I sell 800 of them a year. It is a device for temporary storage whilst mixing small amounts for quick usage and/or for transferring into a machine

.....would like to know what exactly was defined as 'bullying' in the complaints they received. No doubt it will be misconstrued 'hurty words' or people being asked to do the job properly they are paid hansomely to do....or being told to 'pull their socks up' Nowadays if a manager asks an employee why they were 5 minutes late for work in the morning, the employee can state to HR that this questioning has brought on 'emotional stress' I remember many years ago my boss told me to get a hair cut as he though it was untidy and scruffy in front of customers. It wasnt, but hey ho. Anyway i got the length cut....a bit to keep him happy. I turned up for work monday morning and he said it was still too long. My 'colleagues' heard this conversation, and during my tea break they cornered me, held me down and took a pair of scissors to my hair and in doing so they cut my hand. I never reported them, as this was considered 'normal' banter and cameraderie at the time for an apprentice. I could have a field day with that nowadays.

..and in three years time you will need a new battery or batteries....current 40v version (36v now obsolete) for that model is nearly £200 per battery.

Whatever you use to lubricate the lower moving parts of your engine upon re-assembly, will be scavenged when the engine is hot and running, and will become part of your fuel mix vapour for a period until it is effectively 'burnt off'

I hope you have a really, really good reason to want to move to SE London....or Londonistan as its called around here. Stay in bristol is my advice. Sorry. Not very helpful re your question I know....but.

Depends like has already been said...application and length of usage. Generally a twin handled (or cow handled) brush cutter is used for more intensive use in larger areas where less precise control over what and where you are cutting is not an issue. You can use this type in a more of a scatter gun approach to cutting in large sweeps. As both handles are parrallel and located further up the machine shaft then a harness balanced machine will allow the operator to stand in a more upright position so less tiring and less strain of the back. You have to bend or lean forward to use a loop handle machine. A cow handled machine can and should be used with a twin shoulder harness....thus spreading the weight of the machine over both shoulders. However if precision cutting in a more restricted or confined area is required then a loop handle is better. You have more control as your hands are gripping two seperate balance areas so your control is more precise, and can much easier thread the head through tight areas between trees, plants and up against sensitive things like fances or walls. In the middle of a field....cow handle all day. A garden with obstructions then a loop handle. They are really two different machines for two different applications Hope that helps

We sell the really good cobra 650L chipper. Ok, its a domestic product that we sell for around £750, but thats still one, if not the cheapest chipper of this type for a domestic user....however based on price and quality we have sold a lot to gardeners....man in a van types, who like you dont want a full pro timberwolf etc, but something that will be used in a garden environment as part of occasionally used kit rather than full time use. Ok, its chinese, but it is very good and we have never had one back with an issue. Here you go; Cobra CHIP650L 3" Capacity Wood Chipper WWW.COBRAGARDEN.CO.UK They also do an electric start version as well as one with a draw bar for towing...but thats not for road towning use. Just around the garden.

My wife's went out years ago. 😟

Not sure if I agree with what you are suggesting there. Certain makes and models of hedge cutter purposely have a brake lever to prevent blade movement during starting and being transported from one area to another with the engine running. Echo have, Stihl do. The popular HS45 has for example. There is no mechanical 'brake' on hedge cutter blades unlike a mower, so you will always get a degree of 'run on' once the throttle has been released and the drive from the clutch has been removed through lack of RPM. Artificially tightening the blade clamping bolts to increase friction to stop movement, will cause unnecessary load on the clutch and engine to over come this extra resistance. Your blades should always move freely with little resistance.....if they don't over run when cutting in the dry, then that is normally because of varnish and crud build up between the blade surfaces. If you really really want to reduce (not stop) the length of over run time if it is an issue for you then check the quantity and quality of grease in the gearbox...or apply the blade brake (if you have one) From Page 5 of the Stihl HS45 operators manual: 'Note that the cutting blades continue to run for a short period after you let go of the throttle trigger – flywheel effect'

It's the idiots that come into my place and want to buy a new saw, mower etc and then say will it be cheaper if I pay cash. I normally say how so? They then come back and say something like, 'Well, with cash you can just stick it in your pocket' .....err, yeah, so how does that work then, when I have an invoice for it, and a bank account transaction to the supplier for the purchase of it? First thing tax man wants to see is either the stock I have purchased, or the money for it!!! Some people are right numpties. I normally say 'well, if you can find me a supplier who can sell me a load of stock with no purchase paperwork that I can pay cash for, then I may be able to do a cash deal for you' I normally get a blank look.

I agree....but the OP hasn't got that stuff....hence what I said. Given if you've already got the stuff, then you probably wouldn't be asking how to fix it or what to use anyway would you?

.....an new tank is £20, or a pattern one is a lot less. You can spend more than that on all these sealers and adhesives and still no guarantee they will work........or how safe the repair will be after. For that kind of money for a new one i wouldn't mess around with a repair. Doesn't make economic or time sense 😗

The 'own brand' engines are what they refer to as the EVC200 and EVC300 series, which are rebadged chinese Loncin engines. They decided to fit these engines as they are a lot cheaper than the Briggs equivalents these engines are the same series that are fitted to a multitude of entry level mowers.....such as b&q mountfields, a lot of the aldi crap offerings and other budget names. There are some differences in terms of choke operation etc, but they are essentially the same none the less. Would still have a Briggs engine compared to a Loncin anyday......at least if you do need to repair it, you can at least get briggs parts.

Yes, thats correct. You are spending a lot of time and money on a saw, which at the end of it, is still only worth 40 quid (bet youve spend more than that already) everyone here has been very helpful and are knowledgeable, however suggesting ways to fix one of these in the same way as you would suggest fixing issues with a genuine stihl saw are streets apart and the same criteria is not a case of 'one size fits all' admittedly basic checks are the same or similar, but after that who knows given the quality of this stuff...these were made to con people on ebay, boot fairs and pub car parks and would start and run long enough for someone to part with a few hundred quid. like you say, you may get it running, but its still not a 361.....probably less so a ryobi, and you wont have any confidence in it just waiting for the next thing to break or for it to let you down. Even a broken chinese rolex is right twice a day!

The issue here (well, for me at least) is you are tryrng to make a poorly engineered and assembled machine better that when it was designed in china and when it was assembled using crap parts. Lke I said in an earlier post, it has probably never run given the condition of it. Hell, a mcculloch is better engineered and put together than one of these. In essence, trying to improve on a poor quality saw using the same components it came with is not going to happen. You have a 40 quid saw for which you paid 40 quid for and you have your money back. Whatever happens at the end of this you wont have an ms361.....you will have a poor unreliable, dangerous saw worth 40 quid. Just because it has ms361 on it and it looks similar, it does not make it a 361. Sorry, but thats just my opinion. We see this kind of thing all the time with online purchases of generic garden machinery...first thing that fails is the recoil. We cant repair them because we know it will fail soon after and we will be repairing it again and again for nothing. I tells customers we cannot improve on how its been designed....which is cheap.

...the OP is no worse off then 😅

That is a way around the import laws regarding copy/fake saws. Can't import snide saws due to manufacturer IP, but can imports and sell 'parts' but, it just so happens that 'kit' is all the components to make the saw

They are referring to the crank seal behind the flywheel. Timing is fixed by the woodruff key on the end of the crank....or the cast keyway in the alloy flywheel. Either way if the key is in place and undamaged, your timing will be fine. You don"t need a timing light.

Put it back together, take it a boot fair ask £100 quid for it and take 80 quid. Youve doubled your money and got out of it.

Dont need to look at any more pics. That stihl nameplate is enough to tell its a chinese fake you have there

Can I just clarify. The issues I am referring to in my earlier post regarding battery mowers are where a connected battery to the machine has been stored in damp/cold conditions...not from water exposure during use. We all know what happens if you leave leaking old batteries in a torch for example- the terminals are oxidated and corroded. Well, this is what we see on terminals in battery stuff that is shed stored during times of prolonged, damp periods. Winter for example. This 'verdigris' corrosion to the terminals that has built up over winter, insulates the battery from the motor and need removing prior to use. Also extremes of temperature is not good for the life of batteries. Temp ranges are normally listed in the owners manuals, but no one reads those.

On the flip side of the op's question, this week we have had 6 cordless mowers in for non starting that when put away after last cut last year were working fine. Been stored in shed in garden with battery attached and terminals corroded. A good clean and re charge and a bill for 40 quid normall 'educates' customers that they need to bring their batteries in during prolonged cold....or excessively hot periods.....however when customers cant even be bothered to clean undrneath their mowers...remembering to cosset a battery is way down their priority lists

There's a good video set of a hydrostatic transaxle rebuild on you tube that should help you. Just skip to the relevant part you need. Its a four part set. Sorry but i have never sold tractors or ride ons just walk behind mowers. Selling new tractirs and ride ons are a pain in the rrrrssss given the time you spend putting it together, pdi ing it, then delivering it, and then half an hour or more customer hand over...all for a couple of hundred quid GROSS profit...labour, fuel, oil, transportation and labour has to come out of that