Craig.

Thats fairly standard for them to ask about about the load, where you loaded it, where your going with it and so on, usally making notes as you tell them.

I`ve voted for 3, most of the time its free hand,some times knock a stump vice in, back in workshop in bench vice and file guide, or if its real bad electric bench grinder.

If your making some thing like the grab in the photo, and it`s a clearfell, how about getting a old trailer chassis and making a single bunk on it, cut and stack at the stump, load using the grab a bit time consuming loading only a few lenghts at a time, but unload quite quick, and should get a tidy stack roadside.

As some others have said, other makes might give you better value for money, but if your planning on restoring it the massey will have loads of parts available at a reasonable price. Other makes are getting more parts available all the time, but generally at a bit more cost. The easier to get parts, the easier to restore tractor,=price of base tractor goes up. I`ve got a mf135, its one of the most fuel efficent machines I`ve got. It took me about 10yrs to pull my finger out and restore it, once I had finished it, wished I had done it sooner.

It looks like its got external hydraulic spool valves, rather than just the single tapping off the top cover and using the lever on the quadrant to operate it.

In Scottf`s link above, It says about how petzl had contacted sherrilltree about the zig zag failure(about 3 days ago), have they contacted any of the dealers on here? As serious as it is or could be, I would of thought petzl would of made a statment either through their dealers by now, or on here or other forums, they know we`re here they promoted their prouducts in the news section.

And back out through a window glass!

The same as Steve, a gas hob/electric oven, it had to have different jets for propane, a 47kg bottle lasts over 12 months.

I`ve got a couple of them, a snap on one not sure on model but had it about 12 years and still seams OK, dont use it every day but keep it charged ready to go. also got a clark 12/24volt one, and thats OK as well, its about 3years old, again keeping it charged up. I was told as a rough guide the heavier they are, the better the battery. Also check the leads, as some have quite short leads, or thin with poor clamps. I would buy either of mine again depending, on the price snap on would want for one now.

You can get stop/go boards with the back covered so you can`t see the go from the other side, you just turn the plate in front of the backing, for that reason. Sorry bad description, I`ll try and find a link.

Forgot to put, road signs or not, it not normal to go crashing in to pedrestrians, thats right out of order.

You can stop traffic using red/red, not 100% on time allowed with out looking in book, as long as your signs are right as per chapter 8 regs, you can also use a STOP WORKS sign, its similar to a school lollipop again with the right signs. Did you notify your local council street works dept? as they could come and kick you off the road If you have not.

The only problem I`ve found if its a metal drum you get condensation inside especially with weather like it is at the moment (very cold then warm), the oil is a little milky when you come to the end of the drum.

The stop solenoid should need power to open to let the fuel through to injection pump and let engine run, as treequip said. If the voltage dropped low enough the solenoid wound shut stopping the engine. Perhaps when it turned over it carryed on running on oil fumes if the engine oil got into the breather/air filter while on its side? If every thing checks out Ok, may be it was just good old operator error, it was`nt me boss it was the machine:001_rolleyes:

Not sure jon, but they are the same size as the plant trailer, and that seem OK, they look quite a tough tyre, and a slighly larger diameter so should be better off road is my thinking.

Hi Jon, I dont have a ifor williams tipper, but it is on my shopping list this year, but a bloke I do a lot of work with has. Overall he is pleased with his, he has had cage sides and ramps on it, the cage sides are better than the old models as they can hinge down rather than have to remove them, the tail gate opening top or bottom has been ok, only opening at the bottom only if carrying sand or stone type stuff but moving forward slightly as it tips out so the tail gate does not dig in the ground. With the skid steer and brush in it tows OK. I think the alloy floor might not be up to it if you where tipping abrasive material all the time, guessing logs wont be a problem, the strips on the floor if shoveling off can be a pain, but there is no lip at the edge of the body. The finish of the galvanizing is not as good on all the new ifors I`ve seen ccompaired to old ones, not to say they`re not covered just seems a rough (not smooth) finish. I looked at brian james tipper, one of the things than put me of that was the indenspention type axles, rather than beam axles and springs. I`ll go for the ifor williams, with the 185.13 tyres.

A good saw, but watch you dont get one of the fake ones, the is a thread on here somewhere about fakes, looking more like the real thing.

The grey ferguson tractor does not have a live drive, just a single plate clutch, pressing clutch stops drive, pto rotation, and hydraulics, also I think some had a smaller size pto shaft, but adaptors are available. Non live drive just means a little bit move forward planning if you use it for mowing. 4 cyl diesel are usally a good starter in grey fergi, unlike the newer 35`s, you can get a 3 cyl but are a bit more of a rarity

I was thinking the same myself, looks to be on the edge of a pond or lake, man made?

The someone on utube, might be the same bloke posting videos of finding old equipment in the woods, but a lot more over grown than what I seen in the first few pages I looked at on your link.

I`ve not tried one, but the stretchable reflictive stripes sound OK, I usally find the tee shirt or sweatshirt stretch, but the stripes dont, making them uncomfortable Summer around the corner, do you know some thing we don`t:lol:

I think you`ve just found me my ideal tractor:biggrin:, I would have to ask the price, so I cant have one:thumbdown:

The volvo made forwading trailer was made into land drive but it needed a reversing gearbox as the prop shaft turned the wrong way compaired to the tractor pto.

Could you not use the front part of the articulated joint to make a drawbar on, keeping the original steering rams, pivot, and lock, to make a steering drawbar. And put some simple legs on front of trailer. Moving the axles forward a bit would help with weight distribution but would be a big job with bogie axles. I know of it done on a back end of a volvo forwarder made trailer, but it was a fixed single axle so relatively simple, it took some weight off tractor and helped make it a bit more manoeurable.

Thanks for that, I`ll give it a try on my rope, and when its due to change try a smaller diameter.