GardenKit

Yes thats what I thought, but when i looked a 2011 catalogue to see if there was any wording relevant to the thread, I noticed these words under the MS200T. "only approved for use with low kickback Picco Micro Comfort 3 saw chain and1/4"Rapid Micro Special saw chain in conjunction with a carving bar This links the carving bar directly to the MS200T not the MS200 rear handle which is no longer in the book anyway. Its really not an issue to me but it did seem like a bit of a contradiction to what we have come to believe, unless of course, as I suspect is the case, they are hinting more at using the carving bar as a pruning bar for off ground work rather than wood carving which was my first thought.

thanks:thumbup:

Thanks for that Pleasant, but what is the correct entitlement certificate? I have asked several main dealers this morning but nobody has been definitive. I have assumed that it is the CS39 am I correct?

The other thing that confuses me is that that I understand they are not be used on the ground, so why do Stihl offer a carving bar? Can you only use that for carving at height?

The invoices tell no more than I have said. It should follow that the manufactures sales policy gives the details. The only manufacture we are a maindealer for who sell a top handle is Tanaka. I am fairly certain that their policy contains no more than " must only be sold" bit but I will check at work tomorrow. The MS200t,s that I have sold come through a Stihl main dealer, I will ask them next week. I always try do things right, and as of this moment my interpretation of 'right' would mean that I would not sell it to you. Others may, I dont know.

Our purchase invoices for top handles always state that the saw is only to be sold on to pro users. So its not down to the dealer, unless the dealer wants to be unprofessional. But we do need to cover ourselves, so we do what we believe is required. ( I speak for my business, I cannot vouch for others) Sorry, wrong quote!!

I agree, but as I said, I dont sell many and dont have the full requirements, if there are actually any. I know I should have made an effort to find out in the past, but its just another of those things that I have to get round to...... Still, I expect Jonesie will be able to answer this if he see's this thread. And I do know how to spell 'professional', just did'nt for some reason, twice!

In my trade, as in any other, I suspect, it is difficult to keep up with legislation. There are of course trade organisations such as BAGMA which we are members of who publish most of the legislation we have to abide by. I have not seen information on this from them. ( of course I may have missed it) Chainsaws are a small part of my business, and Top Handles are a small part of that. I am not a main Stihl or Huskie dealer and am not therefore in possesion of their policies I have to admit to being vague on what we actually require to see in the way of qualifications as all I have seen in regards to Top Handles is that they are "only to be sold to proffessional users" Therefore I ask purchasers, most of whom I know well and deal with regularly and know to be proffesional, to let me see their climbing ticket, which I copy and file with a copy of the sales invoice, which proves I have checked. I believe that this is satisfactory but will be very pleased if someone is able to clarify the position. The problem is that I dont actually know what tickets you guys have to get,or what they look like, after all its not my line of work. I have learnt a lot more about your trade since becoming a member of this forum.

The last thing I want to do is get you started TCD, as I know you know your stuff. After a long earlier life of working on Ag diesels, and now have been away from them for 10 yrs, I now feel physicaly sick when exposed to fumes from the odd diesel I service. I expect its in the mind. Oh, and I re-read your thread, the bit about veg oil in the saw, so I probably should not have posted the bit about diesel anyway:blushing:

If you think 2 stroke fumes are bad, try diesel fumes:thumbdown: Ok, I know some of you love 2t fumes.

As you may see ,I am not a tree worker, but run a pretty good little busines. In my opinion the best advice I have seen on this thread is from Tom, i agree with his principles and beliefs. I to, feel that too many are selling themselves too cheap. Value yourself, and others will value you. Consider as well, which parts of your business actually make money and concentrate on those. Years ago I was introduced to Paretos Law and it has played a big part in my business plan. Paretos Law, also known as the 80-20 rule, states that in every aspect of life there is an 80% 20% balance. One example is for instance that you will get 80% of your work from 20% of your customer base. You will get 80% of your profit from 20% of your jobs You will get 80% of your hastle from 20% of your customers. You will get 80% of your staff problems from 20% of your staff And so on. Check your existing business, you will find its not far off. Then maximise on the good 20%.

Modern maching techniques and the high quality oils do minimise the need for 'running in' but I stress, minimise. They will still be 'tight' for a while and require sensitive use for the first few tanks of fuel if you want to maximise total engine life. The tightness is particularly noticeable on the smaller engined machines such as 22cc brushcutters which will not achieve maximum revs on PDI, but will build up to max after a tank of fuel. Thrash them by all means if you wish, but you will shorten potential engine life. Best not to over rev, or labour the engine for the first hour . I also agree with others that there is no need to increase the oil ratios, the good quality oils are able to work down to 80:1 if need be, but dont try this, keep it at 50:1 and there is plenty of safety factor.

I carry a couple of new c1Q S16A carbs in stock (as per 020T). PM me if you want a price at any time.

Hi Matt, It does not sound as if you are too far out. I prefer it a little rich rather than lean. Remember, you only get the correct plug colour when the saw is working hard, it will be a little richer looking in light work with plenty of idling. It sounds like the L is OK, The H maybe a little rich but if you have your 14000 rpm you must be about right, leaning it up will send the revs up. I will often tach them about 500 below the stated max speed. In any case, fit the limiter in the middle and you can tweak it a little in the future. edit. Sorry Spud, was writing this a fraction behind you.

Nethertheless, I think many are put off from posting because of the wording of replies. True, we read them in the defensive mode, and sometimes when we re-read we get a different view. But there are one or two frequent posters on here who are basically bullies, and determined to shoot others down. Their wording is often impolite and dissrespectful. Some feel it neccesary to correct others publicly on spelling or grammer so that they can feel superior and 'score points'. Although many posts represent points of view which are inaccurate and need correcting, there is surely a way to point out the errors without resort to words such as 'nonsense' and 'bullsh#t' intended to demean the OP. There are a few 'moderators' who in my opinion, are less than respectful and should consider the example they are setting.

The old 020t carb retails from stihl at £91 inc vat, not sure about the ms200 carb at the moment, its a bit more complex so probably more costly.

One day you might tell me....no, on second thoughts I,d rather not know, as I may be tempted to waste hours trying to fix them.

Also had an old 023 in today, for bad starting. Fresh fuel sorted starting out, next step, check tune. Tached initially at a massive 15500 rpm and would not tune down. Stripped carb, found gauze almost blocked with emulsified oil residue from seperated mix. Cleaned filter, replaced diaphragms and retached, now down to 12400 without moving screws. It was running weak due to lack of fuel in relation to air, purely due to blocked gauze. Luckily caught it before a lean sieze.

You are not alone with this one Rich, I find them very frustrating, they can be ok one day and not the next, ( usually ok when on my bench, not when back with customer!) As Stubby says, I think its to do with rapid wear on the early accelerator pumps, and cheaper just to stick a new carb on than attempt to repair. I often replace with a new 020t (s63) carb, as they are much more stable.

I rekon I get on average one a month come in with " the chain wont go round " Always the chain brake on......! I love seeing their embarassment, especially if they have the wife with them:laugh1:

Had a customer in few days ago with an 039 with a loose exhaust and a missing nut. I pointed out that the exhaust was starting to break up and should be replaced, but he wanted it tightened and the missing nut replaced. He came back today with the saw which had stopped suddenly and now would not pull over, it jammed just before TDC. I stripped it down to remove the bore ( what a pig of a job on the 039!) Found a large piece of broken exhaust jammed into the top of the bore, stopping the piston. It had also done a lot of damage to the port edge of the piston crown whilst trying to get in! Also bent the con rod. I guess there must be a moral to this story:001_rolleyes:

Due to the nature of my work, i.e. charged for services, I obviously always change the plug on a service. I will only use NGK . It does however seem a little wasteful to bin around 1000 plugs a year, maybe I'll bag them up in 20's and sell them on flebay!

Cleaning spark plugs with a wire brush or an abrasive cleaner is no longer recommended. It can do more harm than good by leaving conductive deposits on the plug’s insulating nose. Modern ignition systems work at very high voltages and the HT current can leak away via deposits left by cleaning. Still ,its better then nothing when on site. but better to carry a spare plug. And as you wont find a 19 thou feeler guage use 20thou as equiv to 0.5mm!

If they will eat the loads of ladybirds that keep appearing, I'll let them live. If not, then they have to die.

Nice easy one today. Customer with MS181, said he had cut into some chicken wire and the saw stopped. He had cleaned out the wire really well but was annoyed that the chain would go round. " please mend it" he said. I said "ok"' i'll try. Started the saw on 2nd pull, flipped off the chain brakeand hey presto, fixed. One very embarassed customer. I wish i had done it after he left, I could have made up a story about a little bit of wire in the wrong place and saved his embarrassment. Plus I might have been able to charge him a tenner or two!