GardenKit

Do you know if it is a Quantum, or a Sprint engine. Quantums have a plastic fuel tank moulded around the blower housing, but the Sprint has a rectangular metal tank low on the RH side with a plastic carb screwed into the top with 5 screws.

I doubt you will be lucky enough to have avoided engine damage if the valve dropped at revs and caused the engine to lock. I would expect at very least to have a bent valve and possible damage to the piston crown. Others my disagree.

Have you checked the piston again, it sounds a lot like a failed piston due to lean sieze. I hope its not after all your effort, but did you find the cause of the original siezure?

Not altogether correct. The Hayter Envoy and Spirit models are made in China and certainly show it in their quality. The traditional Harrier range is still made in Britain A lot of the other models are American built by Toro, who own Hayter now.

Two very positive posts there from Scotspine1 and Geoff. I have swapped over a lot of machines to Aspen this week, with only one needing any adjustment, which to be honest, it probably would have needed to stay on petrol anyway.

I would certainly like to sell it at a cheaper price, and a I suspect Aspen would too. I think the difference from petrol is not only the extra process involved in the distillation, but also the packaging, transportation,storage and distribution which all add up. Remember that the volume in the UK is still pretty low, maybe if volume increases the price will lower. The problem is increasing volume with the current price.

This is crossing over with another thread, but I am also coming across wrongly, or being misread. My point is not to excuse myself for a silly mistake, had I not wanted anyone to know, I would not have posted it. Its just that I, just like the rest of you I suspect, who should, and do,know better, still make the odd mistake. Therefore the domestic user, who has no experience or training, should not be allowed to purchase a dangerous machine, in a box, from the internet or from a shed store. without some instruction on the potential dangers. It may give them a head start in accident free use. I spend 15-20 minutes with each of my face to face purchasers explaining the saws features and requirements such as PPE, oil,fuel mix,chain sharpening and tension, chain brake and starting procedure. And yes, I do put the brake on when doing this and remove the guard. I do not try to teach them how to fell a tree but I do explain the danger of kick-back, and give them details of the local chainsaw course. I have had customers decide not to buy a saw after all when they realise how inolved and dangerous it can be. Its a bit frustrating to lose a sell at that point but some people just should not own saws. Remember we are talking domestic customers.

You are not wrong, I have used saws and mended them for 30yrs with no problems, then 3 months ago, just a moments distraction and...... Thats one reason why I feel that saws should not be sold without instruction etc as in the other thread.

I had the same problem on my Jeep, it turned out to be the wiring block connector under the drivers seat. Apparently the seat belt sensor is linked to the airbag. The garage pulled the block connector apart, sprayed with WD and put it back together. OK Of course, yours is a Hilux and mines a Cherkokee, so probably no help at all.

I guess it may be sorted by now, as the thread is 4 months old:biggrin: Would be good to know the outcome though.

I thought you might:biggrin:

Any thing is possible, but in this case ill advised. The tank casing is different as is the the fuel pick up pipe and the carburettor. And of course the handle, throttle control and air filter. Best not bother in my opinion. Others may disagree.

I agree, but there are few saws compared with cars and there are some very nasty injuries from saws. Any form of licencing or proof of competancy i.e CS30 etc wont harm you guys as you already have it. It may be enough to put off many of the homeowners, many of whom are quite frankly a danger to themselves. But as I said before, even a ruling to ensure that saws cannot be sold without a proper handover, will do a lot of good. Its just wrong that they can be bought online or from a 'shed' in a box IMO. Feel free to disagree.

Sounds like it may have siezed, the same rules to fuel and oil management apply to 4mix as to 2mix, with the same reuslts if its wrong. As you dont use it often is there any possibility that the fuel was stale and seperated? As said before, it looks like you will have to strip it to find out, but firstly investigate Jamie1's idea. Take off the valve cover and check that the valves are both in place with a clearance of about 0.1mm. You can also remove the rear engine plate to check the cam and gears.

Do you not have to prove competancy and have a licence to drive a car?

Not if the regulation was in the form of only being able to buy a saw at a specialist retailer, where full instruction will be given. This would not diminish the quantity of pro and semi pro saws but would see a large drop in the DIY cheapies (which most dealers would not want to sell). If the DIY customer found it more difficult to get a saw he would be more likely to use you guys.

Totally aware of selling, its what I do. Much as i dont relish the loss of sales, I do think there should be more regulation to the sales of any chainsaw, not just top handle. It does not matter whether you are game keeper or a poacher you cannot just buy a gun, you have to be licenced. Something similar should apply to saws. I sometimes feel guilty selling a saw, even with comprehensive instuctions, as I can see the buyer is not competant. I cannot say 'sorry , I cant sell it to you' sorry, this is going alittle off thread.

I know that regulations are for our own safety, but it is a bit odd that a qualified tree surgeon, fully aware of the dangers of saws and physically fit, should not use a top handle on the ground. But there is no regulation to prevent the simplest, weakest person, from going to a DIY store, buying a rear handle saw ( with no hand over instruction) and attempting to reduce his apple tree!

Maybe a 4th? Starting with the bar cover on? I once did this and tried to catch it as it came off, not good for the hand.

can't you be a bit more exact??

You can stop the piston by feeding a length of starter cord through the spark plug hole, with the piston on the up stroke and just covering the exhaust port so that the string does not enter the port. Distribute the cord as evenly as possible on top of the piston and bring the piston up until it is stopped. Undo the clutch, but remember that it is LEFT hand thread.

Yes, but surely you get them kick up occassionaly?

Recently one of my lawnmower suppliers, who does not allow his dealers to sell on e bay, found some of his kit advertised. They could not identify the seller, so placed an order under one of the staffs names. The machine arrived and could then be traced to the seller. In tracing by serial number it was found to have been bought, along with several others, by the ebay seller from a genuine dealer on a stolen credit card. The police were informed and the rogue seller was caught. Any public who bought from the rogue seller were buying stolen goods. Beware!

I think that on saws that have not been used for a while the inlet and outlet valves of the pump diaphragm can stick shut with gummy fuel. The 'pulse' is insufficient in strength when pulling over by hand to open the valves and suck fuel through. Introducing fuel through the inlet manifold is often enough to get a start, then the stronger pulse opens the valves enabling the pump to pump fuel in the normal manner. A few minutes of solvent rich petrol running through the carb washes out some of the gum and off you go. At least, thats what I think, others may disagree.

I tend to start saws with the handle between my legs, rather than on the floor as my discs dont allow me to bend too well. Using the decompressor gives more control and stops the saw flying upwards when it burps.