GardenKit

A quick call to that 08448444567 number, stating your serial number and nature of problem will be the quickest way to establish warranty qualification. You will find them very helpful. Good luck

It may not be the case here, but its worth noting that many manufacturers will not support warranty if the sale was made outside of their on-line sales policy, i.e without the proper handover. Another disadvantage to buying on-line. As I said, this may not be the case here, but it is another reason why dealers are reluctant to take on warranty from equipment they have not sold. Not that it matters, but 08448444567 is the main public switchboard, you will need to ask for the warranty dept by pressing the relevant number that the mechanised lady gives you.

:thumbup: Remember incident with Tesco fuel a few years back which killed loads of fuel pumps?

Correct, it comes from the same refineries, but it is my understanding that the supermarkets take the fuel that is is approaching its sell by date, the logic being that it is sold quickly and wont effect the average car. On this basis, petrol bought in cans will be approaching 30 days before sale. I also understand that many supermarket fuels contain more ethanol than normal. Ethanol does petrol no favours. Of course, this is only my understanding and I may be wrong. I have however had many cases of carburation troubles with fuel bought at the local supermarket, certainly enough to convince me of the difference. I will never buy their fuel for my car or my business as I can do without the hastle. I also know technicians in the car trade who feel the same. My advice therefore still stands.

This is interesting. Assuming the dealer knows his stuff, to back up his diagnosis he will drain your mix, refill with his known mix and tune accordingly. The saw should then run perfectly on that tankful. If it does, but plays up when you have refilled with your mix his diagnosis is correct. So then you need to check your mix. How do you measure your oil, is it accurate so that you get exactly 100ml per 5litres? What quality oil do you use? Is your petrol fresh, i.e. less than 30 days old and preferably not from a supermarket. If you mix is perfect then you have a problem that needs further attention.

Almost Cornish then:biggrin:

Bad boy:001_rolleyes:

Sorry, should have been TCD!

East devon TDC, u?

I,ve got an echo:001_rolleyes:

Yes. 50:1. Only use a quality synthetic or semi synthetic, horticultural grade oil that is suitable for mixing at 50:1, preferably 'low ash' some cheaper oils are not concentrated enough to run at that ratio and are best avoided.

I always grease a brand new bar on PDI as I think it helps to 'run it in'. They will otherwise get quite hot in the first few minutes before the chain oil gets around. From then on I think the chain oil will lubricate it well enough, and after all those little grease guns are a pain. As for the Stihl with no grease hole, I guess they may be assembled at factory with a good dose of grease for the initial start. I can personally find no logic in the common thought of if you start greasing you have to keep greasing.

Yes, although I was wrong about the 440, the 235 and 236 use the same feed channel, so the problem could well be the same.

Your local dealer may not want to undertake warranty work on a machine he did not provide so you may have a little trouble here. In any case you will need your proof of purchase before any warranty will be considered. I have just checked the 440 ipl and my initial idea was wrong as the oil pipe is different to the 235 I had trouble with, so sorry for the misinformtion.

It can be a little frustrating with these pumps. Sometimes they appear fine, and lets face it, there is nothing much to go wrong. But sometimes they just wont work and a new one is needed, but check out oils first. I am not sure of the CST rating ( thickness) of Oregon oil, I think its around 150. Some EP 90,s are around 200 cst so unlikely to improve matters. Some chainoils like the Gopart are 100cst so more likely to flow. You could just try a 5w40 or similar car oil to see if it pumps a thinner oil therby proving the pump. If you need a new pump, the part number is 5382430-98/0 @ £24.26 + vat RRP hope this helps

Its a bit of both really. Firstly, the unleaded petrol is chemicaly 'unstable' and degrades due to oxidation which causes formation of resins (gums) and solids. These of course do no good to the carburation. The energy value also drops with age. You will see the evidence firstly in the change in colour, fresh, neat, petrol is clear, but as it ages it darkens with the suspended solids. Stale fuel effectively causes the engine to run lean as there is less usable fuel energy in relation to the air volume, lean siezure can follow as Spud has said while I was writing this. Petrol now contains up to 10% ethanol which loves to absorb water from the atmosphere. The oxidised, water laden fuel causes the oil to seperate from a two stroke mix, you will sometimes see the seperated oil combine with the water to form an emulsion coating the gauze filter in the carb. Best all round to follow manufacturers instructions and use up fuel within 30 days, or use pure alkylate fuels such as Aspen or Moto-mix. Others may disagree.

I had this on a 235e, I am fairly sure the 440 is the same design. The problem lay with the moulded rubber oil track that sits under the steel guide plate. The bar nut had been overtightend, which deformed the plastic around the oil track and colapsed the track when it was tightened, stopping the oil flow It would flow when slack but stop when tightened. Husqvarna knew of the problem and supplied a harder rubber track. Might be worh a word with your dealer if this sounds the same.

Still not clear if there was also chain oil in the fuel tank, if there was this explains the smoke. As long as it starts and runs with new fuel mix it should clear after 5 minutes or so. If it was only the oil tank involved I cant quite understand where the smoke is coming from unless the bar sprocket bearings have failed after being fuel washed. Good to be back on thread! Sorry for the divergance.

Yes, have been for many years now.

They are correct in that the springs (part number 0000 998 1104) are now obsolete. The flywheel is complete with springs. but................£121.02+vat!! As for other springs, I personally dont know if they would fit.

Study from 1993, ok its a bit old and very boring, but the last section sums it up well http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/local_72581.pdf

No there is no adjustable throttle, its very common on the cheap steel deck mowers. The linkage is all there for a throttle cable (at the front of the carb) but the revs are set at full 2800 and then the arm with a sort of triangular shape (you thought it was a choke) is bent down against the side of the tank to stop it moving. A lot of people unbend it and try to use it as a throttle,but it does not help. Fine adjustment of speed is done by bending the small tag to which the longer governor spring is attached. bending it forward and stretching the spring gives more revs.

As above, but if not a fuel problem check for a spark after it has stopped. I have known coils (ignition modules) to fail when they warm up.

Just noticed that you have sold it. Before doing as in my previous post, try this. Tip out the old fuel and put in fresh. Make sure its at least 25 mm deep, if its only about 12mm the suction pipe from the carb does not reach the fuel. Remove the air filter and look into the carb as you pump the primer. You should see petrol squirt into the inlet manifold. If not drop a few drops straight into the carb. Hold up the OPC lever and pull the rope. It should start, but will probably stop immediately unless you squirt a bit more petrol in . The fresh, solvent rich, petrol MIGHT wash out the gum from the carb and eventually it MIGHT run after a fashion. It will almost certainly need doing properly to get it running smoothly. Hope this helps.

It will need the tank removed complete with the carb. Remove the 5 screws holding the carb and remove the carb, clean stale fuel from both and refit with new diaphragms, as the old ones will be misshapen due to stale fuel. Check the primer bulb and replace if damaged. With this done the engine should start with three pumps of the primer. Set engine speed to 2800 rpm by bending throttle tag an bend the arm to stop it moving.