GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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I agree with Steve, I would much rather have people say ' he's not cheap, but he's good' This way you may be able to make some money at the job, which is what life is all about. With regards to the 025 (or any other job) tell it as it is. One price for repair with new parts, followed up by one with good used parts, but with the labour content at the same rate on both quotes, or maybe just a little more labour on the used parts as there will be some dissmantling and cleaning. Even though 'the legend' has the reputation of knowing everyone, in reality he will know very few of the local population , and talk to even fewer about the job you have done, especially if its a good job, as good news just does not spread fast.
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Hi Gardenmad. This may be difficult to explain in writing, but I,ll have a go. for normal valve adjustment you line up the little arrow on the flywheel with the RH ignition module bolt. As its a 4 stroke this will occur in 2 positions, if the valves are operated by the rocker arms in this position (valve overlap) rotate the crank another turn and the valves should be idle i.e not operated when rocking the crank back and forth. Clearance is 0.1mm (+ or- .02mm) adjust, and rotate 2 turns, check again. You will need to cut your feeler to fit between the flanges of the rocker arm. Before doing this, if the cam gear has been disturbed, check the timing of the cam gear with the lobe pointing down. Set crank to TDC, line up the two arrows with the two little marks in the crankcase. (horizontally opposed below centre line of crank) then fit the followers with left hand (inlet) follower first. these marks, and the flywheel arrow should all line up at the same time. Hope this makes some sense.
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Good luck with it this time.
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Hi gardenmad, the decomp lever projects from the cam lobe by about 2mm, if you push it down in an anti-clockwise direction it should retract fully, if not replace the cam gear.
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The indents do look like they were caused by the lug from the screw. I am waiting for him to produce the original cover, but am pretty sure thats the cause. I,ll let you know when I find out. cheers
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No, carb is intact. Big end and small end appear good. I think a backplate nut may have done a little more damage Metal embedded in piston is ferrous. I think you probably were right after all. I supplied this saw new 13 months ago, my stickers are white, and I put them on the cover. This cover has only a bit of sticker left on it and its yellow, a local competitors colour. Now this customer used to buy his saws there, so this is from an older one, possibly one of his scrappers. I'll bet one of his guys swapped it when it would not stay on. I have asked him to try to find out. I just have to get to the bottom of a problem such as this.
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You assume correctly
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This engine has a decompressor which reduces compression at cranking speed. This will affect the normal compression test readings. The decompressor lever can also stick in the cam gear and not close. This may be worth a look before pulling down the cylinder.
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yep!..
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hahaha, like that one:lol: BTW, just tested some sugar in a jar with petrol, it definately does not dissolve, does not even improve the taste. Ruined my taste buds for today though:thumbdown:
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Sorry guys, good answer, but not the right one this time. Both legs of the screw are in place and the bar across the backplate is still intact. Still wondering?
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As Spud says, 50:1...... but only if the oil is designed to run at 50:1. keep clear of cheap, unknown brands, some are little better than the old oils. Aspen will be fine too, as it uses high quality, fully synthetic oil.
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Thanks guys, I bet you are spot on with that, I will check it in the morning but that makes a lot of sense. Why did'nt I think of that? (best not answer, it might offend!)
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Congrats, welcome to the Seniors:biggrin:
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Had an MS200t in today, with reported clutch problems. Fired it up on second pull and it ran for about 10 seconds before stopping as though siezed. Pulled it again and off it went, this time for about 5 seconds before siezing solid. It soon freed up and would rotate, with difficulty but not past TDC. Took it apart and found this damage. The piston crown is peppered with small dents, as is the crown of the pot, and a couple of little bits of metal embedded in the top. There is no sign of lean sieze, or lack of lube.The rings are free and the pegs are still in place. But there is a very small bit of skirt broken off on the inlet port side and corresponding damage to port edge. I am trying to figure out what caused it, anybody got any ideas? BTW the clutch is fine, so not sure where he got that idea:confused1:
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She must be cold...
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its certainly weird, and some of it takes a a bit of effort, but I can't help wondering if its taking the mick out of disabled folk just a little?
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First one looks like a ball of wool on a stick
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I agree with Steve that the font is wrong, it looks a bit amateur I think, needs to be a bit classier. I think you are right that the tree would look better, possibly 2 colours. Maybe brown for the JH trunks and green for the branches would emphasise the JH which IMO is a bit lost. We used to print our own 2 colour headed paper on inkjet but it did turn out expensive. We then found it was actually cheaper to buy it ready printed. Just thoughts, not criticism.
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:lol:
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All the ones I service are given a quick polish before return. The customers love to see them gleaming:thumbup1:
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I think one of my issues in relying on a tach alone comes more from brushcutters than saws. The length of cord or size of blade plays a massive part in governing max speed. An inexperienced person could well try to achieve stated speed by tuning to the lean side, when he should actually be correcting the cord length and tuning to run rich enough to survive. I find this much easier by ear. The same applies , but to a lesser extent, with the tightness of a chain. Others may disagree, and if so I will not take offence.
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Very well put Spud and I dont disagree. I do however feel that a tach should not be used in inexperienced hands, without a basic feel for whats going on. It is IMO as you say a technicians tool to be used in conjunction with his skills. And, I am not offended at all.
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I trust tuning by ear more than the tach, buts thats because I know what to listen for. Tuning by ear allows you to understand whats happening and warning bells sound when it doesnt make the right noises when you expect, showing there might be problems to address. The tach is OK to double check but should not IMO be used on its own,(what if its inaccurate?) but thats just my opinion.
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Cool, but I am a bit fed up with thread because of my inability to put my thoughts into coherent words, and coming across wrongly. So I will shut up and be content as I am.
