GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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They are checked out in the factory, and SHOULD be OK, but I am a mistrusting sort, and its my name on the sticker, so I check every machine I sell, chainsaw, mower, hedgecutter, whatever. Seldom is much adjustment required on quality brands.
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There is not a lot to do really, just assemble bar and chain, check free rotation of chain, fuel up and oil, start, run gently to bed in piston a little more and slowly build up to speed. Check WOT and idle speeds with tach and check pickup. Check chain oiling whilst doing the run up. Check chain brake. Finally, I always cut a few slices off my test log round the back of the shop. Then blow the sawdust off with the airline, just leaving a little so the customer knows it has been tested! Oh, and recheck chain tension.
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Rover The problem is due to the air/fuel ratio I think, so either the correct air/fuel mix is getting a little more air when it gets to the crankcase due to leaking crank seals, or the air/fuel mix is being upset before the carb, possibly due to a small hole in the fuel pick up allowing air to enter the fuel. The affect of this will be greater at low revs than when revving. I would check the pick up hose first as its real easy, followed by a crankcase pressure/vac test. Others may disagree or have more to add.
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I have only sold the one so far, but it did not need any adjustment out of the box. Tached at the 14000 rpm as in the specs. I only did 6 test cuts in 10" timber during PDI, but it felt superior to an ms200t. Time will tell I guess.
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A chest freezer sounds like a good idea for secure cheap storage. I have 2 armourguard fuel stores and both have fine mesh vents in the back, above the bund capacity, to let out the build up of fumes from leaks. The lack of such ventilation in a chest freezer may possibly render it unsuitable if insurance requirements are an issue as they are in my premises.
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This is too broad a request to give a sensible answer. To refine the search, so to speak, a little more info is required. Cutting width, generally 30" 36" 42" 48" 54" 60" Cut & collect, Side discharge, Rear Discharge, Mulch Petrol or Diesel Manual transmission, or Hydrostatic budget supply the answers to these questions and I can offer good advise without writing a book:001_rolleyes:
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Running in.. Dont force it, and dont labour it either. Just the same as always, if you want sensible life from your kit. A lot of users who grumble about reliabity of any kit are simply not good operators, with no empathy for machines.
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Great post as usual, Spud. By the way, where do you find tach spec for something like the Ryubbish?
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Still making friends then, Mr P
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Its almost certain to be the now commonplace failure of the clutch drum needle bearing. along with possible wear/damage to the inside bore of the drum itself. There are plenty of recent threads on here about this problem. Oh, and by the way, welcome to Arbtalk.
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Brett, If you have the carb off the saw and are able to identify the carb, that is both the make, and the numbers etched into one of the flat faces, then I may be able to obtain a replacement. PM me the details if you are interested. If available it will be a genuine carb, but not in a Huskie box.
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Just a little worrying that b&q types might actually see this and think its that easy:thumbdown:
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I love the passion you have for this magical place, and you have now instilled in me a strong desire to find said place and experience this for myself. But I won't, as it's your special place, and to intrude would be wrong, as, if too many start to visit it may dilute the feelings you and your family have for it. The magic that it holds may be connected with your family and may be broken by outsiders. It may cease to hold its charm when you find it violated, even mildly, by others. Rubbish, dog mess, camp fires (or even brush fires in dry weather), broken fences, initials carved into trees and rocks, etc etc. Keep it secret, keep it safe and visit it more often yourselves and allow only trusted friends to share this incredible place. At least, thats what I would do, and not feel selfish.
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I am very glad to hear this positive report, as I have just sold my first 201 to a cutomer who has had loads of 200t's. Was getting a little worried. Thanks.
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It just goes to show how different we all are in how we run our business. I always charge full retail on spares fitted to repaired machines, just the same as over the counter, as we need our margin to stay in business. In fact we sell very few spares over the counter as my customer base is not generally of the DIY type. However I do not charge for the plug or oil on services, as my services are done on a ' menu ' basis. I know I need a plug and oil, and I know how much they cost, so they are built into the service price. All other parts, which may be required are added at their relative prices and customers are made aware of this when booking the machine in. Environmental charges (waste disposal) are built into my expenses and the total figure used to determine my charge out rates. It works well for me like this.
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Spud, once again you are on the money! The customer came in today with the original cover, complete with broken twist lock. One of his guys had swapped it for a good one when it broke. The saw worked for sometime afterwards, which is amazing.
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No probs:thumbup:
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Yep, Honda GCV engines eat spark plugs, and its surprising how many failures we get in 2 strokes actually. The Tanaka strimmers, which I have tremendous respect for, will kill the original Champion (yuk!) plug quite quickly, NGK lasts much longer. And as for the Oregon................. I thought I was expensive at £3.84 for a BPMR7A, but £5.00?? ( bearing in mind we both pay the same!) Good for you.
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As others have said ,along with other very valid faults, one cause could be a misplaced or split inlet manifold (boot) so just a little more info on that. If you have duff AV rubbers, especially the rear one, extra strain is placed on the boot. It may not be the case here, but its always wise to replace AV's before they fail completely. Seeing a split boot can be difficult, they usually split on the underside, you may be able to see it using a pencil beam torch, looking through the gap between the handle assy and tank, whilst pulling the handle gently upwards to increase the gap and open the split. Check fuel pick up hose at the same time. Occasionally the boot will pop off the pot flange, flick out the square retainer plate to check. ( and old boots will often not reseal here, even if they look good, they harden with age) Good luck.
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A 'pleasant' surprise???
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I thought I lived in a hamlet of 3 houses, it sounds now that its not. So what is it?
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Sure, and on this MS250 I think we need a bit more input from the OP about its performance prior to the first stop. Does it start normally from cold? Does it tend to bog down easily? Does it tick over smoothly without dying? Does it pick up from tickover without hesitating? Does it perform normally until that first stop? Is that first stop intended, or unintended? (just had to add something!)
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miffed...... because I cant think of anything to add. You should write books:001_cool:
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just the odd assumption, or two, there then Mr P:001_huh:
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Do they have any other trees they DONT want felled? They have been deliberately vague so wont be able to complain if you level the lot and take all the wood:lol:
