GardenKit

please tell............

BTW, my £7.50 is only for loose chains. If I have to take it off the saw I charge another £7.50 to cover cleaning out the chain cover/brake, cleaning the bar groove and a quick dressing of the bar where required. Normally have to add fuel or oil in order to start the saw to bed the chain down. Wherever possible I offer weekly turnround as I make Sat morning my sharpening day, most domestic users are happy with this. And, while we are comparing notes I charge £10.00 for shear sharpening.

Heard that.....

yeh, and you said £20 if its one chain........ edit....sorry just seen your next post

wow, I must be way too cheap. I sharpen 100's of chains at a fixed rate of £7.50 inc vat. Most of them are domestics off 12 - 15" bars as most pro customers with the larger chains like to sharpen them themselves. I do get the occasional 3/8 84 link which I still do for £7.50 but in reality it should be double that. The problem with commercial sharpening is getting the price right in relation to a new chain. Power consumption is minimal and it only takes a few seconds to set the angles. Changing the stone takes a little longer so I tend to batch the chains and do the large 3/8 seperately. If I am too cheap please tell me!

It looks like you are only guessing that the compression is low. You really need to do a compression test. We can only advise when we have that figure. A compression tester is easily obtained at a motor factor and is cheaper than a piston. I use a Gunson. Its about 35 yrs old but I think its still accurate. Must remember to pick up a new one, but must make sure I get one with a 10 mm thread for these new plugs as found on the MS201

See? Thats why Spuds the man. Knows his stuff AND writes well. Me? I get my words all mixed up!

When it comes to compression and pistons, Spuds the man:thumbup1:

Firstly find out what is causing it to lack power i.e fuel system, air induction, ignition, exhaust, compression. What diagnosis have you done so far?

I might be on the wrong track here, and if so I apologise for derailing. I wonder if Tintin is meaning the BBC ( blade brake clutch) rather than the trans clutch, causing the blade to be rotating all the time the engine is turning. These are far more likely to sieze, I have never seen a trans clutch stick on on a 194, but there is always a first time. If its the BBC it will mean that the clutch is remaining engaged all the time and the brake is not being engaged. Could be... Siezed, or out of adjustment cable, ... Worn or broken actuator arm,.... Friction pads on actuator worn or missing,....clutch pads rusted together,.....blade carrier centre bearing siezed. If it is the trans clutch, then it is repairable but may not be worth it, the bits are not cheap as the others have said, but the gearboxes are not sealed and all parts are available. Most likely place for trouble would be the selector fork shaft siezed in the bushes. There are 2 trans gearboxes, one type for the 4 wheel variant and one for the rear roller. Both are shaft driven from the engine, so no pullies or belts involved.

I agree totally, completely under rated IMO.

Stihl market 2 greases. One is a Multi-purpose EP grease (clearish, brownish colour) which is just like most general purpose grease gun tubes. This is for the gear systems of hedgecutters and electric chainsaws. The other is a high temperature graphite grease ( hence the black colour) for brushcutter and clearing saw gears.

I think if you use a 1.3 narrow kerf chain in a 1.5 std bar you are likely to get binding in the cut as the kerf will be hardly any wider than the bar. It will go round ok out of the wood though.

I spoke to Stihl today about this warranty issue. The person I spoke to said there is absolutely no way they will invalidate warranty on saws used with Aspen. He said that actually it solves a lot of warranty issues as there is no chance of the mix being wrong. I had a warranty passed by Husqvarna recently for a scored piston and cylinder on a 2 yr old saw(domestic) just because it had been run on Aspen, and therefore the damage could not have been caused by lack of oil. All good news.

Grease actually works better with some space left in the housing, but besides that its possible to push the seals out of the bearings in the bevel gearbox. This grease then gets pushed into the shaft tube and as the machine is generally used head up, the excess grease can migrate down the shaft to the clutch where it is not wanted. And it gets messy. Too much in the conrod box will merely push past the blades as they reciprocate and make a mess. Best just not to put too much in, just a liitle and often. Most of ones I see for service are very low on grease and have often lost the con rod bearings.

I service loads of these and always just use a standard lever grease gun pushed against the hole. Its better than using a nipple as you cant force too much grease in. Standard mutli purpose grease is fine for this application.

Just checked the 236e again and found another sticker which says assembled in the USA!

hi predator. as others have said, there will always be oil which drains from the oil feed passage, bar rails and from oil soaked sawdust. however, they sometimes leak from the pump body if at any time the clutch bearing has failed allowing the clutch drum to run eccentric and touch the pump. If this is the case, if you remove the drum, you will see a semi circular groove worn in the body with a tiny hole over the pump gallery. This will also reduce the oilers efficiency. If the hole gets bigger the oiling will stop and the leakage will be significant. Should this be the case a new pump will be needed and the drum/bearing repaired.

Why not just get a genuine filter? At least you will be sure of the quality.

:congrats:

:thumbup:

I was not aware of any made in China. The 236e that I have in my showroom at present is defo made in sweden. The 240 is not on the 2012 Huskie price list.

Careful guys, a double glazing man near me did just that to a customer a few years ago and got 4yrs inside for his trouble.

Sadly, MS200,s have been prone to carb trouble even when run on pump petrol, and I think sometimes these are blamed on aspen unfairly, as, just like the fuel pipe I mentioned, the diaphragms may have already deteriorated with pump fuel prior to Aspen. Many dealers just put a new carb on these saws without attempting to repair, when sometimes only diaphragms are needed. Aspen have on record a letter from Stihl endorsing the use of Aspen and saying that warranty will not be affected, so I wonder if your refusal came from Stihl, or from the dealer without consulting Stihl. I also find the warranty issue confusing, as Stihl recomend the use of their own Moto Mix alkylate fuel rather than petrol and do fully warranty it. As far as I can tell, Aspen and Moto-mix are very similar products. This issue has bothered me for a while so I will try to speak to Stihl myself this week and verify the warranty situation.