GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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Try cleaning it, and make sure it grips the post, if it does not it wont have the resistance to open the pawls. If its slack you may need to replace it, unless you can squeeze it up a bit with pliers. Of course this may not be the problem, but it does sound from your description that the pawls are not coming out.
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Its the grip of the R clip spring on the centre post that extends the pawls. It grips the shaft tight enough to extend the pawls when the pulley is rotated and only when they are extended does it rotate on the post itself. It must not be lubricated. Good, pics, everything else looks good.
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Might just run it with the clutch removed ( and oil pump worm). I would not want to rev it, but as the shriek is at tickover it may help. If the noise is in the bearings it may still be there ( o.k, I know there wont be any thrust from the clutch) What do you think Spud? Also check the drum bearing land on the end of the crank, they can wear if used for any time with a failed needle bearing. The reduced diameter allows the drum to rock and could cause the contact between the side of the clutch and the drum. Worn clutches, especially the early type tend to spread sideways too, but I note that this one seems to be tight.
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The only way to ensure a first class repair is to fit a piston and cylinder as a pair. This is quicker than attempting to recover a cylinder with deposits, so at dealer labour rates it is the only way to go. The dealer also has to warranty his repair, hence the need to fit new parts. However, some very good repairs are done by skilled engineers working for themselves at lower labour rates than required by dealers. It is feasable in some instances to recover the cylinder where the labour cost is cheaper than the parts cost and may be considered worth the 'risk' Just make sure the man knows his stuff, as this sort of fix, just like a ' new part' repair, has to be done properly. Have a look at Spud,s thread if you want to see how a recovery job is done properly.
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As it only shrieks on tickover,i.e, when the clutch is disengaged, it surely has to be in the clutch rather than the main bearings. I would double check that the clutch is not contacting the drum at any point, not only on the engagement surfaces, but also on the side. Even if the needle bearing is good, if there is wear on the crank the drum can wobble and touch the clutch. It can also be held out of line by the brake band once again allowing it to rub. Once the revs increase and the clutch locks up, everything rotates together, hence no noise. Worth another look before pulling the crank apart? So
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The system uses 2 springs, basically one winds up the other which releases to turn the pawls. It sounds like your trouble is with the pawls rather than the ergostart. The pawls are forced out by the grip of the R shaped spring on the central pedestal so it may be worth checking that the spring grips the shaft. If it spins freely thats the problem. However the R spring should not have suffered unless it had been disturbed and distorted.
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The air gun loosens the clutch instantly by shock impact. As it is working against engine compression there is a lot of 'give' and the egine would turn long before the crank sheared off. Any sheared cranks will in my opinion be due to getting the Lh thread mixed up when working against a stopped piston. I have done possibly hundreds with the air wrench and never had a problem.
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I always use an air impact wrench to rattle off the clutch, it takes only a few seconds, but of course not everyone has access to one so Spuds method is then the best. And as he has said, the stop switch problem will almost certainly be the wire between the rear bolt of the front AV , and the bent metal contact spring. It will be broken at the top end terminal.
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i watched it, sung it and drove MYSELF crazy. -
Rouge traders make me see red:confused1:
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just checked my paperwork, I started my agreement with Inverter Fusion Ltd at Honiton in dec 2010. Paid £30 deposit on 10l bottle of "garage gas", £48 "right of use" for 3 yrs, and £28.00 for each fill.
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Mig welders are great, they are cheap to run on wire as opposed to electrodes. Very easy to use and fast, ideal for fabrication. But.. the work must be clean, they will not weld well through paint or rust, and they are next to useless outdoors if there is any breeze it blows away the inert gas shield. The gas can be expensive, especially if you have to rent the bottle. Shop around to compare rental prices. There are some suppliers who charge only a minimal rent upfront for a 3 year period, then you just pay for your refill. Dont be tempted to use the small diposable bottles. If you need to weld outdoors on dirty material then it has to be an arc (stick) welder. The modern inverter types are light and powerful, ideal for portabilty and are ideal for repair welding.
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got a fair mix of kit in, so if I mixed up the bits I could end up with a self propelled hedgemower or a ride-on chainsaw. Awesome thought:confused1:
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What a cazy day yesterday was. Started the day with no new machines in for service, just 6 on the bench in various states of repair awaiting spares. By the end of the day another 31 machines had turned up. I,ll have to get busy now as I like all machines turned round within the week.
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Or maybe the Tanaka killed it?
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You must be a very skilled or a very lucky man (or both). If I were to carry out a cheap repair like that, I bet it would be back in within a few days even more damaged than before. I would then be expected to pick up the whole cost of a proper repair. Still, I suppose if you are doing it yourself, for yourself, its worth a try.
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Thanks for that Tyz, I have found Castrol garden chain oil at 100cst, Rock chain oil at 130cst, Gopart at 100cst or 200cst. This sort of info helps in the selection of oils for summer or winter use and for saws such as the smaller stihls and the cheap huskies which tend to under oil. The smaller the cst number the thinner the oil.
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I too have been trying to find data sheets on most common chain oils in order to find out the Cst (centistokes) rating. We all know that some oils run through faster than others but with the exception of Kramp Gopart oil , none seem to quote the CST (viscosity) on the can. I have just found the castrol spec sheet suggested by Tyz but it was not simple to find. If anyone knows of a database of these specs please post it.
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I had an ms200t in today with reported carb problems. it did seem like fuel starvation as it would start normally, rev for just 1 or 2 seconds and then die. I first checked the fuel pickup hose, put it under vac and pressure, but it was fine even when stretched. Second, I removed , cleaned and re-kitted carb, but still the same. I undid the rear av so I could lift the air box and get a peep at the manifold with a pencil beam , but that looked ok. Now it wont start at all, must admit to being a bit baffled so had a cuppa. With a fresh approach, and without the determination that its a fuel problem I hooked up the spark tester and guess what? No spark. Fitted new coil and tried it. Perfect. Tached it and sent it on its way. The coil must have been on its last legs and packed in totally whilst under repair. Live and learn:biggrin:
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91vg chains in particular are very tricky to make and easy to get wrong. The problem starts with breaking the chain from the roll. The drive link is small and does not sit well on the anvil and bends easily if the punch is not totally central. The link bends at the weakest point which is the hole, this elongates the hole which then pinches on the rivet. This, along with the curve of the bent link makes the pivot tight even if the rivet head is perfectly formed. As Spudulike says, the tight ones should be rejected, but often the task of chain making is given to staff who lack the knowledge, so they go on the shelf. With these small chains it is best to check them yourself before fitting, if its tight dont fit it.
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did not notice it to begin with, but the bumper tie strap should have been on the other side as it has 3 RH ones in a row instead of LH, RH, LH etc. Probably does not make too much difference but it does unbalance the chain a little, also supports the theory of being made by someone practicing.
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looks like a 90sg or 91vg chain. The fracture has occured on the joining link used to make the chain. These small chains are quite tricky to join and its all to easy to get a tight link. If the joint does not pivot easily it will fracture just as yours has. As Graham has said however, links also fracture occasionally for no aparent reason.
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Means and Methods of Protecting Your Kit from Theft
GardenKit replied to easy-lift guy's topic in Stolen Equipment
You dont need to let it out of your sight to lose it. A customer of mine put his hedgecutter down, still running, while he moved his ladder. A car screeched to a halt, passenger door swung open and a hand reached out and grabbed the machine. The car drove off before he could react! Guess thats totally opportunist theft. -
Just hurt my pride, as I am usually so careful. Luckily I did not hurt my wallet! As long as my customer is not an arbtalk member I wont have hurt my reputation either.
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Whats NOT on my bench today!! The garden tractor which WAS on my bench(ramp) with the engine running whilst tuning carb, jumped into gear and shot off the ramp. It landed on its nose and flipped over to end up upside down across two other parked tractors!! Amazingly there were only a few bent levers and a bent seat to sort out and 30 minutes later the tractor was back on the bench no worse for the experience.
