GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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A local chap developed this for bracken control Welcome to Landbase - Equipment for Natural Management
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Spot on Too many people try to tune carburettors rather than cure the fault which make the saw seem out of tune. Carbs seldom go off tune on their own, and if they do they do it very slowly. Contamination problems can happen quickly, as can fuel line deterioration.
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This has left my local community shocked and sickened.
GardenKit replied to tommer9's topic in The Lounge
The other worry is that the perp may live in the very community that is shocked and sickened. Sobering thought. -
should read 'whats on an 020av?' i.e carb make and model.
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maybe a little numeric dyslexia with the price. The S16a carb is quite common on an 020T (whats an 020av?) and retails at about £63, as opposed to one in a Stihl box at £91. (Prices inc vat) Of course the carb on this saw maybe a different one. In any case, as Spud says, this carb should overhaul OK unlike the one on the newer MS200T which can be a bit tempramental.
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I agree, if you have access to a convenient electric point go for an electric machine. Only consider petrol if you need to operate away from base. Whatever you buy, dont buy DIY cheap, they just wont last. Also ensure that you dont base a decision purely on the quoted pressure as the flow rate is more important. You need not only to blast the muck off but also to carry it away, hence the importance of flow. I have used many electric machines but the Kranzle 1150 I have now is by far the best, especially with its rotary lance.
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Glad its working. You should really just go through the L setting procedure again, as the idle mixture will have been altered by altering the H mixture. In theory you should replace the limiter with new. I must admit I tend to leave them off and have not had them move as far as I am aware, but it may be as well to be safe rather than sorry.
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I agree that unleaded (95ron) petrol causes problems, but IMO it is the LACK of additives, namely the anti-oxidants (preservatives) that cause the problems These problems manifest themselves as solids and gels which form in the petrol by chemical oxidation as the fuel ages. The solvents also cause problems with the rubber and plastic components. As far as I know, 98ron will be no different in this respect. The 98ron fuel burns more slowly than 95 so the engine will run cooler and starting will, in theory be a little more difficult. As far as I can see it will do no harm, but a small retune of variable jet carbs will be neccessary to achieve top performance. A better option may be to consider an akylate fuel such as Aspen or Moto-mix.
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Just thought of something else. The bar and chain must be on the saw with the chain properly tensioned whilst tuning. This drags the revs back a bit. I know it seems a little patronising to state this, but I have known people try to tune without the chain as they can be a little scary zipping round at 1400 rpm on your bench. Take care to have a clear bench and keep a firm grip on the saw, and ensure good ventilation. I sometimes clamp the handle to the bench on the bigger saws with more 'gyro' effect.
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Or they increase premiums, which is where this thread started......simples. We are talking the whole insurance business, not just NFU by the way.
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Glad you got it going well. With regards to WOT, my opinion would be to take the limiter off and tach without it. I would use the tach, but also double check it with basic principles of 'fourstroke setting' as described before. Hopefully the two methods should produce the same result Others may agree or disagree.
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I guess you mean the fuel shut off solenoid that screws into the bottom of the float bowl. when you turn off the ignition the plunger goes up under spring pressure and shuts the fuel off from the main jet? Is it a single steel bowl with the solenoid sticking up vertically or does it screw horizontally into a cast ally double bowl?
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both inlet and exhaust have same clearance at 0.10mm + or- 0.02mm You will need to trim your feeler down to about 3mm wide to fit between the pressings of the rocker arm, you will see what I mean. There is a little arrow on the flywheel, pointing outwards between 2 of the fins, point this towards the RH ignition module (coil) mounting bolt, with both valves closed, ie on firing stroke. (remove the plug so you can feel it coming up on compression with a finger over the hole) Check and adjust using an 8 mm spanner. Rotate a couple of times and check again. If the clearance is too great the decompressor does not work so accurate setting is essential. Hope this helps
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thinks its Daihatsu, brilliant engine IMO, far superior to Kohler.
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I may have been a bit hasty with my last post. I seem to remember that I did have to replace a coil once because the earthing tag had corroded and broken off flush with the resin.
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I get a lot of saws in, usually from the domestic market, that dont go after they have been lent to friends. They are usually siezed due to running on neat petrol. People will lend these things without checking that the friend knows how to use it and what fuels, oils etc to use. I also get a lot of people in saying " I borrowed this and now it doesnt go, can you just fix it before I return it?..... These are normally domestic saws which of course are not economic to repair. Old saying "never a lender or a borrower be",.... very true.
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When an ignition coil fails it prevents the machine from running, not from stopping. Failure to stop is common for the reasons mentioned here by others, i.e either of the two wires, quite easily fixed. Carburation issues,however,are not uncommon on this saw and the problems may be coincidental to the repair.
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The clue may be in the wording 'siezed'. If it actually did sieze then that may explain why the skirt broke. As Spud says, check for scoring on the piston, and on the bit of skirt if you have found it. If there is scoring then that will also explain why the petrols not coming through. Either way, as Tyz05 said, it needs a new piston at least, but find out the cause of siezure first, i.e was it due to lack of oil (insufficient quantity or quality, or seperated) or was it lean siezure (incorrect carb settings, ingress of air) Stale fuel also causes lean siezure even if not seperated, as the lower energy value of the fuel effectively lowers the fuel to air ratio. Or just dont bother and stick it under the bench for spares.
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We do smoke tests, but its a bit hit and miss as some oils burn cleaner than others and stale fuel burns smokier than fresh. The evaporation test on clean white paper can also be affected by the age of the petrol, as fresh,straight, petrol evaporates cleanly, but stale fuel leaves behind the soilds that have formed, so leaves a dirty paper which could be mistaken for oil. It is possible to 'feel' the oil between thumb and forefinger, but once again its difficult to be sure. The sure way is to to use the chemical testing kits, but due to the cost of them we tend only to use them to solve disputes.
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Do you 'non-service' guys say to your staff "dont bother to look after my kit, mate, its just not worth it"?......
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Zama carbs are made in China, maybe that explains a thing or two.
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Exactly right! The chinese seem to make whatever people want to buy. You could ask them to make you 1000 saws at £10.00 each with life expectancy of 5 minutes and they would do it. You could then sell them on fleabay with no spares or backup, from your garden shed. Or you could do as Rochfords have and visit the country, have the saw built to an exacting standard and supply it through the dealer network with complete backup. They can, and do, build good stuff with the right supervision.
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I make some of my living from servicing saws so I am pleased when owners don't. However, it is frustrating to see some of the problems I have to fix that could have been avoided by a little servicing. I get loads of MS361,s in from pro users, that dont oil the chain. Its often because the drum bearing has broken up through lack of maintenance, the drum then runs eccentric and loosens the oil pump drive link on the worm, so the pump does not turn. The drum then starts to wear through the pump body. The customer gets a bill for bearing, drum, pump drive and sometimes a pump. All he needed to do was clean out under the brake cover, remove the drum, clean the clutch and grease the bearing occasionally. Simples. I only really bothers me when they moan about the cost as though it is my fault.
