GardenKit

If I reduce the amount I pay tax on then surely I pay less tax:confused1:

How did the new settings by tinytach compare to tuning by ear, i.e tuning to slight 4 stroking. I usually tune by ear and then check with tach (stihl) and am seldom far out.

Yes, I see where you are coming from. My first posting was to try to dispell the myth (imo) that it did not matter if you were vat reg as if you were not you could claim the total vat inclusive cost against tax and that would equate to claiming the vat back. I still dont think it does, but am now so confused that "I am out":confused1:

Ok terminology wrong, result right. Any increase in costs relates to a decrease in profit, therefore £100 less profit to be taxed on at 20% equates to £20 saving. If he is trading at a loss then its a different story, but maybe he needs to reconsider his business. Why should the vat reg man have to to collect vat on the £100 fuel? He will surely treat it as a cost and therfore not charge it onward to customer just as he would for purchase of tyres, vehicle repairs etc.

Raining very wet rain in East Devon

made me smile, that did!, thanks TCD. hope all is well.

I think you may have got TCD started on the mention of emissions, Morten!

I agree with Worcswuss on this one. Take, for example £120 of fuel, a genuine business cost. A non vat reg user will claim tax relief on £120 (assume basic rate 20% tax) So he will save £24.00 in tax and the fuel effectively costs £96.00 A vat reg user gets his vat straight back, so the short term cost is £100, which he claims for tax relief and saves £20.00 in tax, a total saving of £40.00, making the fuel cost only £80.00 The non reg users cost is therfore still 20% more than the vat reg competitor. Apply this to all your daily costs, hire charges, vehicle repairs etc, as well as capital expenditure to get the real difference.

:thumbup: with you on that one Steve.

The title of the thread is Diesel Chainsaw, but, as normal and quite rightly, the discussion has moved on, this time to engine alternatives to 2T. I dont wish to argue with anyone, especially Morten, who IMO makes a lot of sense, but I do question the example of the FS130R as I personally would not consider this a full on pro-machine. However, what is of note I feel, is that the FS310 clearing saw, which was defo a pro machine, and was 4-mix has now been replaced by the FS360 which is now 2-MIX. Also, a new model mid duty machine, the FS240 has been added to the top of the previous 4-mix range and is now 2-mix. Is this a sign that the 4-mix was not maybe as good as first thought and will slowly be replaced? I, for one, hope so.

If it aint broke, dont fix it. Whats wrong with 2t, except emmisions? Loads of revs, loads of power, loads of noise, few working parts. I love them! Whats wrong with 4 mix?......... Poor revs, poor power, wrong noise, tappets..... i hate them! Long live 2 stroke.

I must admit that I was sent mine by my wholesaler, as I am not a direct Huskie dealer, so I got the info secondhand, so to speak. However, it did solve the problem. As I recall, it was only the models with bar nuts, as opposedto the quick tensioner, as they could be done up too tight. Evidence of over torqueing could be seen around the base of the bar studs, you could see the plastic heaving where the stud was trying to pull out of the body. The metal shim plate was also distorted. If I ran the saw with a slack bar ( be very very carefull ) the oiler worked, tighten it up and it stopped as the channel colpased in on itself.

I have a lot of respect for some of these tree lads, I sold an 880 with a 48" bar recently. I could barely lift it and starting it on the bench scared the sh*t out of me. The guy who collected it was related to a gorilla, swung into the back of his arbtruck with one arm.

Know exactly what you mean, but at least he has found you now and will hopefully be a regular customer for oil and chains as well as the odd service/repair. A 660 for domestic firewood cutting is a bit excessive methinks. He may have saved himself a bob or two if he had asked your advice first.!

:thumbup:Think that falls within the definition of 'similar'

The real world!

Done TCD, hope you get the results you all want.

Reference the MS181 v MS261 I have now seen comments on a couple of threads saying that a 261 will be very little quicker cutting than a 181 Where do these people get their ideas from? A 181 is an underpowered domestic saw which wont sustain a cut through 200 mm dia softwood without easing back, on the same bit of wood a 261 will pull straight through in a fraction of the time. I dont use saws for a living, but test many saws on a captive cord, taking off aprox 10 mm discs so as not to waste too much wood,so many different saws get to cut the same bit of cordwood. Very easy to compare performance in this way and the 261 is exceptional. I know some others will disagree, but cannot understand why.

To get it in perspective, these 'fake' saws, as well as genuine branded 'cheap' saws DO have all the safety features, so its not fair to trash them on that. The issue would be with the quality and efficiency of these features (as well as the rest of the saw) and I will trash them on that. I had a very plausible copy of a Stihl in from a customer, it looked just like a Stihl, was apparently 'clearance stock' from an ebay seller. It was labelled as an MS640. I have never seen a 640 so could not immediately say it was fake. The bar and chain looked just like Stihl (same markings) The stickers were just like Stihl. I had never heard of counterfeit saws (not an Arbtalker) but was suspicious. Took covers off, now starts to look not like a Stihl. No part numbers on mouldings etc. And the clutch drum was about the size of an Ms200 one. I doubt this would have adequate braking effort for a 24" 90cc saw, even if it could drive it. The linkage to the brake looked pretty flimsy too. And I have a lot of cheap chinese saws in with a problem such as Rich describes. After only a little use the chain brakes stays on a bit and the handle has to be pulled back to release it. Customers say ' getting fed up with having to hold the brake off all the time, makes my hand ache':thumbdown: These can only be fixed with a complete brake cover assembly (where available) and that does not last either.

Sounds like you use the same instruction book as me too:biggrin:

Thought it was just me:001_rolleyes:

Hi Spud Stihl might, I don't:biggrin:

Had to do one on 880 to replace crank with broken circlip groove. Not a quick job, lost a lot of money because I could not charge the amount of hours I took. Could do it faster next time, but dont want a next time!

Why cant I find anything good? All I find in carrier bags is a load of cr*p!

I agree totally, but as I have said in other threads,China is a very big place with a great diversity of manufacturing. They can, and do, build some quality kit for Western suppliers who specify and oversee the production. Mitox saws, for instance are very good. But, they can also build rubbish for mail order and online suppliers with no service or spares backup. The average domestic purchaser has no idea of this diversity.