GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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Customer brought his Mountfield in for service and "sharpen". Said it was working well but probably needs a sharpen by now. He does not use it much apparently! Now, the dilema, should I sharpen it or fit the new one? Mmmm...
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It depends what they mean by 'loaded' A ball bearing will handle loadings at 90 degree to the shaft, but not in line with the shaft (thrust). Taper roller bearings are required to resist thrust. So if your gearbox was incorrectly assembled and too many shims were put in between the gears, the bearing could have been 'loaded' Alternatively it could have failed from contamination of the oil causing mechanical damage, or, if any water were present in the oil, it could have failed from 'cavitation'.
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I've not seen those e.bay carbs before. They are copy parts, not Zama. Are they any good?
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It appears, as you suspect, that the fuel is not getting up to the carb quick enough. I dont think it will be the needle height as it runs well once started. More likely to be loss of impulse, This could be from a poor seal between the carb and manifold, a damaged or stretched pump diaphragm, or a poor seal of the pump gasket. ( the little raised lines on the pump cover create the seal against the gasket, and the sometimes erode away.) The fuel pick up hose could be porous, but that would most likely effect the running too.
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There you go....part number 1129 440 4000. Available from any good Stihl dealer at £1.35 plus vat
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The Cabrio 310 air filter looks like a bit of thick blotting paper. Its part number is 5382415-23/9
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In my experience they fail more frequently than the black wire, and are thankfully much easier to replace. I used to mess around mending them, but the genuine part is so cheap its not worth the time messing about. They often fail because of excess handle movement from the front AV, so check the AV (annular buffer) when you fit a new wire (or repair an old one).
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That is absolutely true. The oil in a back end of a tractor is being asked to perform so many different tasks these days. Lube of bearings and gears, lube of clutches and brakes, as well as being simple hydraulic oil. And the amount of crud is incredible. The oils for these systems are now very expensive. Simple hydraulic pump and motor circuits are much simpler and cleaner allowing a simpler, more suitable hydraulic oil to be used. This oil is much cheaper.
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True, but mostly because of the brakes and clutch packs in the back end, rather than the needs of the hyd pump.
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Wise man.
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32 grade hydraulic oil is the same viscosity as sae10 oil. Ag tractors do indeed use multi purpose oils in the back end. But they also suffer from high failure rates of hydraulc pumps. Jack of all trades, master of none.
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The viscosity is indeed similar, but thats not the issue. If the10w30 is an engine oil rather than a hydraulic fuel, it contains additives neccessary for engines that can harmful to hydraulic systems. The detergents in engine oil easily absorb moisture an emulsify. Moisture droplets in a high pressure hydraulic system can lead to cavitation in pumps and motors.
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Perfectly normal. It shows which way is up.
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Very well done Richard.
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Adders, Grass snakes in my garden
GardenKit replied to Jesse's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
I have learned a lot from this thread and also found that I have the perfect habitat only a dozen paces from my back door. Its a large compost heap sort of thing where I have dumped grass clippings, prunings, branches, pampas grass stalks etc for the last 20 yrs on the edge of a small wood. Am I going out to look for some? NO! Why? Because, like Rich, I am terrified by them. Its irattional I know, but I cant help it. We may have to move house now to escape them. -
Sorry Steve, I did not really think they would. ( had I thought so Iwould have asked for a share of the profits:biggrin:)
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Just had a request from some dodgey character looking for scrap MS200t carbs:biggrin: Hunted through my box of scrap carbs and found 5 for him.(I really dont know why I keep this crap around) Best not to buy any reconditioned carbs of ebay for a while:lol:
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TBH I do not know the factory set on that machine, but it will almost certainly be 1 or 11/2 turns. The factory settings only apply to a new engine and carb, its not unusual to retune to compensate for wear. If your machine runs and idles, then you are not far out. Tune the L screw slowly IN until the revs start to drop. Then OUT until the revs start to drop. This gives you firstly the LEAN drop off point, secondly the RICH drop off point. It also gives you a feel for how far to turn between the two. Then tune as I said before, by turning IN until the revs rise away from the RICH drop off, then turn it OUT until just before the revs start to drop.
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Tony. Yep, the two allen key headed bolts holding the blade can be right pigs to get out 1 soak them in easing oil or WD40 type thing 2 the allen key hole is probably ruined by now. You can try hitting them round with a chisel or punch, or weld a thin nut to them and undo with a spanner, or, as you will need a new BBC anyway, grind the heads off. The centre bolt too, can be a pig. I always use an air impact gun, that never fails. However, the only way to stop the crank turning is to engage the BBC, but that only works if the BBC is in good enough order to lock the blade to the crank, but as he wants to replace it, then its probably not. I fear a trip to the local repair shop may be in order
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Assuming there are no faults which have resulted in it going out of tune, other than just a little wear and tear, then it is the L screw which requires a little adjustment. Turn the L screw very slowly in an anti-clockwise rotation until the tickover speed drops off, then screw it in very very slightly until the revs pick up again. Adjust the T screw (idle speed) if needed to get a good idle below the clutch grab speed. At this point it should idle and then pick up without the flat spot.
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Its strange that that pulley arm should have bent. There is not much load on it, even under shock, and then the spring should take it. Any load should be in the same direction as the arm and not bend it unless for some reason the pivot is too tight so the shock load was unable to move the arm in the designed direction so it had to go somewhere else, in this case, up. Maybe be worth checking that pivot. As to whether the arm can be straightened. I would have thought it possible, but it must be exactly right or it will stress the toothed belt, so maybe best to replace it.
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Simples. Blade off, then undo the Allen headed mushroom bolt in the centre. The bottom half of the BBC then comes off. There is a good chance that you only need to replace this bit as it is the bit with the bearing and the friction linings. If you get a replacement BBC from Hayter you have to get the complete unit at over £100. But as a John Deere dealer I use the John Deere unit which is exactly the same, but JD supply just the wearing half at under £50. I sell loads to Hayter owners. If you do need to replace the upper unit (actuator) then remove the shoulder bolt, disconnect the cable and pull (or lever) off the old unit. If very stiff a bolt can be wound down the centre to push it off.
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Thanks so far. I will give Simon a ring to see if he is interested, and if so put him in touch with the customer. I have seen his work, its very good.
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A customer of ours has asked if we can put him in touch with a tree carver. He has a tree which has to come down, but he fancies having the trunk carved. I do not know any other details, but said I would ask around. If anyone is interested I can pass your contact details on to him.
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Possibly like this one I have just removed from a TK carb this morning. One reason to use Aspen:biggrin:
