GardenKit

Its a piece of standard Stihl fuel hose. 3.1mm x 5.7mm. Available from any good stihl dealer in 1m lengths. part number 0000 930 2803.

Modern Harriers have three very common problems with the drive, other than normal cable adjustment. Firstly, there are two drive belts between the crank pulley and the gearbox (via a variator) They wear badly and very soon start to slip causing the gearbox to lose drive. Secondly, on 41 models, the belts can become loose when the roller support bracket brakes allowing the gearbox to move forward. The roller will look out of line and the height adjuster seem broken too. The third fault is that the internal clutch in the gearbox wears out, especially if the clutch lever is 'slipped' a lot, or if the clutch cable has not been adjusted when needed. A new gearbox is the only cure This sounds more like your issue as the clutch gets weaker as the box warms up. If the pulley on the gearbox can be seen to be rotating, but the roller is not moving then the gearbox is most likely worn out and in need of replacement. (just check the chain drive first though in case the sprocket roll pins have sheared)

The trouble with holding the throttle is that it induces a false diagnosis. Yes the engine will run smoothly using whatever fuel is available, but the air mixture will be wrong. The problem WILL be the carb. The springs do not go weak. They can be stretched by damage but that merely results in a low engine speed.(the smaller spring does balance the governor slightly, and this one is prone to breaking) The governor works by airflow from the flywheel acting on a vane. The higher the revs, the more pressure on the vane. As the revs increase the vane pulls on the the throttle butterfly via a short link and tries to shut the engine revs down. The throttle spring pulls the other way and overcomes some of the wind force, thereby opening the butterfly and increasing the revs. The engine revs are stable at any point that the wind force and spring tension are in equilibrium. As the revs drop under load so does the wind force, so the spring force allows the butterfly to open, feeding in more fuel which increases the revs again, as well as the wind force which counteracts the spring and shuts the butterfly, lowering the revs. And so on,and on. Too little fuel from a contaminated carb will cause the carb to hunt. A carb diaphragm set is £2.25 plus vat or a complete carb is only £14.30 plus vat Some pics of the diaphragms, these were damaged by stale fuel. One reason I use Aspen. [ATTACH]125065[/ATTACH]

PM sent.

Those springs are fine, it will be the carb causing the problem, the governor is merely trying to compensate.

Common problem on the B&S Sprint engine. The carburettor will need a good clean out and the diaphragms will need replacement. A simple job, I do 100's every year. 2 bolts hold the tank and carb to the engine. Once the tank is on the bench the 5 screws can be undone and the carb removed. Replace the diaphragms and refit. All will be well.

Sorry to see you had a rough time yesterday Rich, but it seems all is well and you did your family, and youself, proud. I hope the lad is OK this morning and that you and you wife are feeling much better on this beautiful morning.

I guess if they were interchangeable they would have the same part number. The MS360 one fits 034,036,340 and 360 The 048 one fitted the 042av and the 048, but is obsolete.

Thats what IPL's are for Rich:biggrin: The only choices are age related, in this case the cut off is ser no 144381327, and the material, eg wire mesh or fleece.

Already got two grandchildren aged 5 and 6, so this will be third. I do conform to the image of grandad a bit better then you though at double your age.

yours seems to be an early saw without the compensator (bit of hose joining carb to filter body, and moulded into the HL rubber cover.) If this is so it should be pre ser no 144381327. the carb side part should be 1119 120 1600 for metal mesh type and 1605 for handle side. 1603 is for the later type, but I think the choke part is the same anyway. shutter is 1119 121 2900 and switch shaft is 1118 182 0900

Toy Boy..

Congratulation Rich. Hope mother and baby are both doing well. My daughter has another 4 weeks yet.

hahah, beat me to it Steve. Yes, normally held open by spring, but moved forward by lever to close.

Nice one Rich, Clean bench for bank holiday? Not for me. How was last nights emegency dash? Hope all was well.

I had one like that recently and the choke shutter was misplaced within the air filter. Split the air filter, refitted the shutter correctly ( and the return spring) and all was well

I,ll bet they do have other work Beau. Burrell had a thread a few days ago showing his landscaping which he does when the treework is quiet. Nice big wooden box, by the way!

Yes, i agree, there is no reason at all why any new kit should not run perfectly well on Aspen. And it is, after all, Husqvarna's preferred fuel.

I'll stick my oar in here too. Firstly don't be too worried about it sucking air, that is what its meant to do. But that air is in turn meant to suck some fuel from the carb jets and it sounds that this is not happening. Before getting too carried away with strip downs try running it with just a little choke applied. if this corrects it then the problem is most likely on the induction side, either fuel or air. Remove and overhaul the carb, checking the jets and in particular the metering arm height. While the carb is off check the inlet boot for tightness and the seal twixt carb and backplate. Secondly, I personally can't see the point in running it without the clutch. The engine needs a little load to perform and the drive shaft, head and clutch provide this, with it removed the engine may appear to rev up properly even on a weak mixture. I have never had a running issue which was down to the clutch except for the inability to adjust the tick over due to an unwanted load if the clutch is grabbing. And anyway, and has been said, the clutch may not be at fault at all as it may be engaging due to a high tick over speed from a weak mixture. if it is sticking, as per the other thread you can sort it after the engine is fixed. Thirdly, the primer bulb (or more correctly 'purge' bulb) works by creating a vacuum which draws fuel towards it from the tank via the metering chamber. it is not unusual to have a 'vacuum' bubble in the purge bulb. Once the engine is running the bulb serves no purpose except for the non return valve in the base. Hope this helps to confuse.

Thanks Daniel.

I am sure warranty will cover it:biggrin:

Nice shade of Mountfield Red there Mike:biggrin: Just off home now, had a day of saws and brushcutters, but I am glad I left the 200t till last. Needed the oil pump removed and blown through backwards to clear the crap from the pump inlet as is normal with these things. Also a full service, but as the oil tank vent has been leaking the thing was bluby filthy. Some Jizer and the air line got it clean, but it seemed to transfer most of it to me. How can you get so much filth from such a small saw?

If the engine tickover is as low as it will go, the problem lies with the clutch. If the springs are weak, or broken, as said, then the shoes will fly out to easily. Alternatively, one or both shoes could be stuck out and not returning. These clutches are prone to siezing on the shoe pivot bolt and bush, or between the guide plates, usually due to rust after a period of storage. Take it apart and give it a good clean up, or replace the whole clutch.

Not at all Rich, we all love Jon.