GardenKit

It was good to meet you and your father. Glad we were able to help.

The Hayter 56 v/s is indeed pretty feeble in the transmission department. It is not at all unusual to have to replace the gearboxes, but to be fair the first thing to check are the drive belts. They do wear very quickly and the slip is often due to the belts rather than the box. Belts are cheap and easy to replace. As to coverting to the Pro transmission, I have not tried but it looks feasable. You would need at the very least, new gearbox new belts new centre double pulley all the pivots and equaliser for the centre pulley, as well as the tension spring. This would not be a cheap exercise and would require more research first to ensure that the roller bracket and the under chassis are the same. Better IMO to sell the 56 v/s on the bay and buy a new 56Pro or similar.

Hahaha , Great Minds etc

And its Goodnight from me. Apologies to the OP for the serious derail:blushing:

If you have a Kawaski, relish it. Kawasaki have announced that they are withdrawing from the outdoor power tool market. Shame, as they are much better than Stihl and Huskie.

I actually agree Rich, I think the Rattler has worn off. I do not like Husky hedge trimmers or brush cutters. They are just not properly engineered IMO. But then I dont like Stihl brush cutters either. Neither are any where near as reliable and well engineered as Tanaka.

Sorry, just being pedantic. I have to say though, Stihl or Huskie does not matter, they are both potential earners for me. I do however think that Stihl is much better engineered and easier to work on.

I would have to disagree.

Funny, when I drink i don't agree with anyone:001_smile:

Corrected that.

I had to use that one as the blue one had been nibbled by mice.

Sorry, i am a bit late on this one due to 3 pints of Rattler at tea time and a touch too much sun:biggrin: To start with, MS200's are particularly fickle saws no matter what fuel they are run, so best to be open minded and not blame the Aspen. As PMH says, if it is fuel related, its not the fault of the Aspen but of the petrol that has been used previously. Petrol contains solvents which wash out the chemicals added to the fuel lines and diaphragms in order to keep them supple, but to some extent these same solvents take over and soften the material whilst very slowly destroying it. When we remove the solvents these materials dry out and harden or crack. This happens in dry stored machines and can also sometimes happen when Aspen is used as it contains no solvents. (there is often no problem at all) If the problem on this saw is due to the use of Aspen then the saw will still be in perfect mechanical order and replacement of the fuel pick up hose, carb diaphragms and accelerator pump seal will fix it. If then run solely on Aspen there will be no more issues, just as in a saw run on Aspen from new. However, if the problem is coincidental to the use of Aspen it may be more serious and costly to repair. As others have said, common faults are the inlet manifold and impulse hose,as well as a worn accelerator pump, but any failure in these areas is nothing to do with the use of Aspen. Neither will the more serious issues of crankcase leakage through physical damage or worn seals. A good techie will be able to diagnose the problem easily.

No work today, but still a bench.

Cool, what about New World Timber, at Hill Barton estate?

Ah, hahaha......got it now. Don't all rush at once Kent boys.

Jeez, these ebayers are bonkers! £102 for that is madness, its very old and its 2 stroke. Only a lunatic buys a 2 stroke unseen.

Fair enough Ryan, its your saw and your oil. Do as you wish. But others should not be tempted to use old oil on your recomendation, it will be detrimental to health and will definitely lead to premature wear of bar,chain, sprocket and oil pump. I have seen this so many times and presented customers with unnecessary bills for their folly. It is too thin, and not sticky enough.It will fling off the end of the bar rather than being carried around

Its been many decades since I broke a head bolt, and just as many since I used a torque wrench on small engines. Might have broken some in the early days though, whilst still "calibrating" my 'tech wrench'

Thats the 'tech wrench'

Tanaka:thumbup:

A Tanaka TBC230 in today, it suddenly developed a problem where it would not run at slow speed. This is classic crankcase leakage, but extremely unusual to have this, or any other problem with a Tanaka. They are ultra reliable. In 20 years of dealing in tanaka's I have only had one crank seal failure Anyway, a crankcase pressure/vac test revealed this crack in the crankcase. Reckon it must have been dropped. Expensive.

But Ryan uses old sump oil for chain lube, where it sprays around and is inhaled by the operator. Pretty high likelihood I would say.

Is there any proof that petrol is more dangerous (cancer wise) than old oil. I have always understood old engine to be very carcinogenic as it has absorbed some of the carcinogens from the fuel being burnt and thus concentrated them. Why knowingly expose yourself to both materials? And, if worried about the Benzene in pump fuel, swap to Aspen which has vitually no Benzene (less than 0.01%). Look after your health guys, you only have one.

A 'proper' clean will be 45 minute in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then a blow out with some carb cleaner. Then a rebuild using new diaphragms etc. Then a 'pop' test and leakage test. Only then can you be sure you have done your best, even then sometimes your best is not good enough and a new carb is required. Welcome to my world.