GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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As Rich says, but have a good look at the throttle wire. You may find that it is worn a little thin where it passes through the retaining quide on the lower right of the carb mounting bracket. If it is worn it will not stay in place for long. You may need to replace the wire, part no 1140 182 1500 at a massive RRP of £1.04 plus vat!
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It has seemed like an extemely long day today as I have not been feeling well. Full of cold, sore throat etc. I have had loads of interruptions in the shop, and even a surreal conversation with the head man from the local gypsy site who seems actually to be a very nice guy and has made me revise my ideas on true Romany Gypsies. So I did very little to reduce my long queue of machines, just full services to an MS180, two HS80 hedgecutters and one HS61. Now off home for a glass of spiced rum and some lemsip.
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A silencer will not stop you being seen:confused1:
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Hahaha , Renault gearboxes were more than a bit prone to failure. The gears and shafts were normally good. It was the synchro's that failed. Marvellous tractors though.
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Thats right Jon, but they have it easy as they launch into a sheltered harbour off a concrete ramp. No pebbles, No waves.
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Sorry Johny, been right out of ag for 11 years now.
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Not that one Jon, but Mk2 is still operating.
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Even with the tyres water ballasted to 70% it weighed in at nearly 8 tonnes but big waves would pick it up and move it about. Had a wave hit the back window once (mekrilon perspex) and break it. The waved washed over and through the cab and took me out of the door!
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No, firstly the glass would have imploded, and secondly the thing would have floated with a cab full of air. Yes, plenty said i was mad.
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Sidmouth, Jon
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The whole thing had been heavily repainted and then heavily wax oiled. The wheels were galvanised. The gearbox, clutch housing and axles were pressurised by exhaust gas to keep the water out. Extra seals were added to all shafts and linkages. I installed water hoses and nozzles all round and also a fresh water tank and pump, so as soon as it left the sea it gave itself a fresh water shower. Then a thorough wash down at the boathouse.
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Yes, a Renault 106-54TL, I sold them at the time. No scuba gear, just a dry suit. The trouble was that the Renault has a very tall cab, and as the water rose inside I floated off the seat and could not reach the pedals! Still driving in this pic with my head jammed against the roof and holding my breath whilst I headed back to shallow water.
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It passed its test and they bought it in 1998. I joined the crew and launched the boat many times using this and the trailer I designed to go with it. After 8 years it was starting to show a bit of corrosion from the constant salt exposure, so we replaced it with a very similar, but larger one.
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I just found some photos that I thought i had lost of a contract I had in 1997. The brief was to modify a tractor to launch an Inshore Rescue 21ft Rib over a steep shingle beach. The tractor would have to operate in 1.25 metres of water, but may at times be immersed by breaking waves. Before the customer would sign the cheque (for £30k) I had to prove the tractors ability by driving it in 2.5 metres of water on a rising tide. Then I had to stop it, shut off the exhaust and snorkel valves and let the tide cover it. I then had to be able to restart it at low tide and drive it back to the beach. These are the long lost pictures of the first sea trial, the tractor was moving in each picture. It was quite a unique experience.
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Quite right Rover, I forgot to mention access. Just had tunnel vision on replacing the pipe.
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To be honest its easy enough to fit a pipe, just a few minutes work, push it into the tank, grab it with a pair of thin, long nose pliers and pull it, whilst easing the flange grommet into place with a blunted screwdriver.
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SAE 30, monograde Rich.
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Just send me the cylinder and bottom bar Steve, Keep your fingers for your saws.
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Hope it will not be made of metal from the Atco factory......
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Upside down ain't backwards, its just upside down:biggrin:
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I have no idea if there is an optimum speed. Its something I have done for years but never been taught! I use a Dewalt reversable drill with speed control and tend to keep it fairly slow. You get a feel for the optimum grinding by the torque on the drill handle and the sound of the grinding itself. Keep moving the paste back with a paintbrush as the scroll takes it to one side. Turn down the adjusters to get a good grind, but dont force them too far asyou will end up with too long a surface on the bottom bar which will grind back faster than the blade.
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Thing is Spud, if doing it your way you must turn the cylinder backwards when sharpening. Use a reversible drill with variable speed control. Otherwise you take the leading edge off, rather than sharpening it. And, its the only way it could possibly work using sand. The better way is to 'backlap' using grinding paste between the cylinder and bottom bar and rotating backwards. This nicely matches the bottom bar to the cylinder. Make sure the paste is completely washed off before rotaing forwards, or the hard earned edge will be lost.
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Yeah, I dont touch the lightweight electrics, because, as you say, if you do them properly they cost more than replacement. If I did not have my grinder I would turn all cyl mowers away as I have too much work anyway and they are my least profitable. My advice? Dont bother with them.
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Forget it Rich, definately only for home users. Sure, its bound to do something, but it would not be very professional to charge a customer for such a job. Cylinders need to be ground properly, and grinding gear costs a fortune. Best to not take in cylinder mowers or contract out the cylinders for sharpening after you have removed them. The trouble then is that by the time you add the grinding costs at betwen £1.50 and £2.00 per inch, to your labour, you have a big bill for the customer. I was lucky to get an old Atterton and Ellis grinder for £70. It does a good enough job for my domestic mowers. Pro users may prefer 'relief ' grinding, and you wont get a cheap relief grinder.
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Thats all I use Rich, works fine on most blades, as long as they have a central hole. Sometimes have to be a bit imaginative when the diameter of the hole and the shoulder on the cone dont match.
