GardenKit

Rich, look at another way. You say you have spent all day on it, I know you spent time on earlier, and I bet you will spend time on it tomorrow. Say 16 hrs total. 16 hrs at £40 =£640. Just give in and buy the guy a brand new saw, then use your time to earn some money on easy things.

Plastic padding will do, and its much quicker.

Just send it to Spud, Rich, he's not going to sleep either now. Look what you have done now, a load of insomniac techies:lol:

You have given him a sign "Aspen alkylate petrol available here!" Aspen never gave me one of those, how do you expect me to sell any? Favouritism:lol:

Might depend where it starts rotating I suppose, effectively there would be two compression strokes instead of one on that cylinder during the 4 stroke cycle. That could possibly cause the piston to bounce back off the first compression. Maybe? Also the OP says it will turn over all the way by hand. That could be because he is bleeding compression slowly past the rings. maybe?

Not me Rich, I went to Lackham. And to learn. The old saying 'those who can, do. And those who can't, teach' I'm a do'er not a teacher.

And I have slowed down even more since emigrating to Devon. Just Cornwall left if I want to slow down even more:lol:

Another thought. If the thing has been apart a number of times, could the carb studs have pulled into the backplate, and so is the carb actually tightening up enough onto the boot. Some little washers under the nuts could possibly give it a bit more seal??????

You are right there Jon, but us boys from the Mendips don't work as fast as those Londoners

The metal ring which stops the boot flange spreading when the carb is tightened up is not distorted by any chance Rich?

Wow, i did not want to hear that Justin, thats crazy cheap for about 3 hours work. My service is good, but not as good as yours though as I certainly don't take the cylinder off every saw to decarbonise it. Anyway, I'm still putting my price up. Might even sub contract all my saws to you, any discount for bulk?

Actually £60 inc vat and plug at moment, but going up to £75.00 shortly. Dont be fooled by lists though, they look more impressive than they are. Take for instance "Whilst apart check Starter mechanism and rope, pawls and tightness of flywheel." That means pull out he recoil whilst visually checking the cord for fraying and making sure the knot stops the movement, not the spring. Let it snap back. Wiggle the pawls and check the springs are in place. Give the flywheel a quick rock. That all takes around 30 seconds.

I removed the shafts and butterflies and bonded a tube down the centre of the throat, then filled the impulse passage. Ground the gasket surface flat, and hey presto. I have since ground down the outside to its minimum size so it fits many saws.

If the rocker post has come undone (I have had this happen), then the valve is permanently closed. This would not allow exhaust gas to escape and could make it difficult to turn over. With the plug out it would turn over easy.

Instead of testing through the impulse and blocking the boot with a marker why not leave the impulse in place, leave the handle in place and test through a dummy carb. I use an old carb which I have sealed up with JB weld and bedded in a hose tail to connect to the test pump. This way you can test the boot and impulse tube, as well as the carb mounting plate and gasket.

Take the pump off and blow through the OUT pipe of the pump whilst rotating the pump shaft. You will very likely get a little plug of sawdust pop out of the IN pipe. Reassemble and test. Simples.

Hamlet time ( remember the old cigar ads?)

Not many Pro users have their saws serviced, which may be why there have been no replies to this thread from users, only from other techies. However, my service for a Pro user is the same as a domestic user. Test run and check all functions, such as starter, chain brake,oiler, kill switch, AV's and state of tune (tickover, pickup, etc) This gives me the 'feel' of the saw. Then off with top cover, starter cover, chain cover, chain and bar. Off with the chain brake cover, and off with the clutch Get the airline in and give it a thorough clean, pressure wash (with care) if required. Whilst apart check Starter mechanism and rope, pawls and tightness of flywheel. Check chain brake band, spring and linkage. Check oil pump drive, grease needle brg, check clutch shoes and springs. Check sprocket and bar, dress as required, and check chain, sharpen as required. Change plug, check HT lead and cap, check fuel lines and breather, clean air filter, check kill wires. Check AV mts again and check handle plastics. Clean or replace tank filter and check fuel pickup hose inside tank. Drain fuel, and dispose of properly. Put it all back together with bits in roughly the right places. Fill with fresh fuel (Aspen:biggrin:) Start, warm up, tune and test, retune if required until right. Check all functions again, Test in big log, retune if required. Let it go cold, then start and test again, retune if required. Any problems found are priced up for repair and customer consulted before carrying out the repair, unless I know him well enough to carry on anyway. Write out bill for £60 inc vat Phew, I did not realise I did so much, so the price is going up. Seriously though. most of the 'checks' are visual, and instinctive, so its not as complicated as it appears.

Sorry Rich, scratch my last post. Your pressure test would have shown this up. (a vac test however would not)

I think Eddie is on the right tracks with the valves. Whip off the RH rocker cover and check the valve gear. You may just find that the exhaust rocker post has come undone and so the exhaust valve may not be opening.

Well, there are a lot of techies here, but I will add my thoughts. The rubbery inlet manifold thing can split allowing air in, but I am sure you have checked this. But I have also found that these rubbery things harden with age, and do not always reseal against the pot flange after they have been disturbed. A little sealer will prove this, but should not be used as a proper fix, the boot should seal on its own. Good luck Rich.

I agree with Ray, there is no need to dissmantle the carb if it tunes as you would expect it to. Years of experience tell you when you need to attend to the innards of the carb and when to leave alone. For this reason I also do not include this in a service price. Steves 'service' is more of a 'refurb' and as its Steves hobby from which he no doubt gets a lot of satisfaction, then that is perfectly OK. However, in the commercial world a 'refurb' to the extent that Steve does it, would be very expensive. A 'service' is the norm, and a complete stripdown, followed by a crankcase pressure/vac test would not be done as part of this. After all, just like the carb issue, if the saw is running well and tunes well, then there is nothing amiss with the sealing and the tests are totally unneeded. I would only perform such tests as part of the diagnostic procedure in a 'repair', which would be charged at my hourly rate rather than the 'menu' price of a service. mikercike's question of a checksheet..... a good idea. Mine is in my head and is instinctive, can't be bothered with too much paperwork around the workbench, too messy!

You wont get any better than Rowena, Mike.

I have had a day servicing chainsaws, and quite frankly it has been one of my least profitable days. Saws always seem to take much longer than every other machine I do, so many things to take off, clean, and check. The cleaning takes most of the time. So I don't think I am charging enough. What do you guys pay for a complete service including sharpen and bar dressing? State if you price includes VAT or not. Also if repairs such as carb rebuilds are charged extra. Barrie

At last I have cleared the lawnmowers that have been around the longest, nothing over 5 days old now, so started on those 2 strokes, some of which have been around for 2 weeks. I started on the first one as the last job of the day, Its a Huskie 40 from a new customer. "Do you repair Jonsereds?" he asked. "only I have this one that starts Ok, revs up, then dies. I've taken it to two other places and spent quite a lot on it. It is still not right" Then he says " I've even taken it to an aircraft engineer, and he could not fix it" So I said "if two other places have failed, and an aircraft engineer (what qualifies an aircraft engineer to be a chainsaw mechanic I really don't know) then I doubt I can fix it, but I'll have ago if you are willing to pay" So he brings in a Huskie 40, not a Jonsered, but thats OK. Anyway, as I say, I looked at it tonight. First, a comp test. 170psi. Cool. Then checked fuel hose by pressurising from tank end. OK. Plug Good. Started to take the carb off, found too much fuel hose between tank and carb which was bending the hose double and stopping the fuel. Not good. Stripped the carb, found very distorted diaphragms, they had not been changed in years. Checked the gauze, it was not dirty, it just was not there at all. New diaphragms, new gauze, refitted with nicely routed hose and now it runs a dream. I learnt a valuable lesson though. I am never going to fly again.