GardenKit

What model Rich?, also poduction number is a help on Huskie parts

Just a thought Rich, are you using OE recoil pullies or have you found some after market ones? I have worn out several ones on new cheap chinese rubbish in 30secs just trying to get them started. Made of plasticine.

Maybe there is something more obvious Rich:confused1:

:biggrin:It may have cut well once, but not now, what with the chain being on backwards:biggrin:

I have used 50:1 in every 2t machine I have used, serviced, repaired and sold in the last 10 yrs, and thats 1000's of machines. Never had an oil related problem. For the first 81/2 yrs I used and sold Rock oil, as I still do, but for the last 18months I have favoured Aspen, which is 50:1 mix as standard.

Seriously guys, if using a modern 50:1 oil such as stihl,use it at 50:1 from the outset whatever the machine. These oils are designed to be ok at 80:1 even, so 50:1 is ultra safe. Too much oil leaves deposits on the piston crown and in the exhaust.

One reason I would not put a timing belt on is if it did not need one. But the only reason I would give for not needing one is if it has only recently had one. If it has been on for any more than 1/3 of its recommended change interval, either by miles or months then change it whilst you have the spanners out, it will save you doing it later.

Nice one Rich. I looked out my old kit yesterday, I had forgotton how heavy duty it is. Its not a Sykes as I remembered but a Ratcliffe and forms pipes from 3/16 to 1/2" Comparable ones today are between £150 and £200. Think I will hang on to it as when (if) I ever retire I sort of fancy doing up classic cars.

If it says its made in Japan then I guess it must be true, but I have only ever seen quality product coming from there, never this cheap stuff, as their costs in Japan are just too high. China on the other hand has the ability to produce really cheaply and have flooded the market. Must admit I smell a rat! (no pun intended)

I was refering to the £68.99 machine in Davids first link. That is not from Japan. Show us yours, I would be interested to see it, also the 'made in japan' sticker.

I will second that Doobin, as you said,David-chainsaw's machine is of course chinese. The distributor is the Netherlands but thats where it ends. As this is a public forum and some viewers use it to gather information,it is important to keep things factual. Fact, It is Chinese Fact, It is NOT the same as a Stihl FS90 Fact, The parts are not interchangeable Fact, It is cheap and will work fine until it does'nt. Fact, If someone brings one into me for repair I decline to take it on.

Nothing wrong with Tanaka, it is superb quality. No need to move on.

Mike, glad you are enjoying your learning experience:001_smile: There is a lot of good advice available on this thread, I am certainly always learning something new. This is what I use to seal up the crankcase. The beauty is that it tests everything from the carb flange inwards. Simply made with an old carb, a hose tail and some epoxy filler. Most carbs have 30mm bolt centres so it fits just about everything in our daily life. The corners are ground off, because some carbs sit within raised lips on the flange, so check it fits snug before tightening. On one machine I had to use the rubber gasket, but cant remember which. Also make sure the bolts are the right length. The originals will possibly be too long as they also hold the air box. A pressure or vac test should really be performed at no more than 0.5 bar. This pressure (or vac) should drop by no more than 0.2 bar in 20seconds (stihl manual). Small leaks are normal and permissable within these limits. The other plates are for the exhausts.

The FS90 is a 28cc 4-mix engine, how can anyone seriously think the parts will interchange with a Chinese 52cc 2 stroke? They are as different as pork and cabbages. Not knocking the cheap machine, at that price if it works then its fine, but you will struggle when it breaks down, and believe me, it will break down.

Around 2 yrs ago I had serviced a saw and all was well. It is my habit to just run the saws up again after they have gone cold. I took this Promac 60 off the storage shelf to run it up, but the phone rang, so I put it on the bench. Later I came back to it and moved it to use the bench but then remembered why it was there, so gave it a quick pull. I must have thought it was ready to start, but the chain cover was still on and the brake off. It started well and revved straight up, in fact faster than my brain. I saw the cover jumping around, so took my finger off the throttle and stupidly reached forward to grab the cover, but it had shot off the bar by the time my hand closed over the still spinning chain. Ouch, Blood, Skin bits. Luckily even though my thoughts were slow my reflex was quick and the damage was minimal but messy. I always ensure that the chain brake is on now before starting and when carrying a saw

One of todays jobs was an HS80 hedgetrimmer for service. Gave it new fuel lines and new carb diaphragms. Even after doing the carb it would still not tune nicely, the L screw would not lean out and the H screw seemed ineffective. It was achieving max revs, but was surging up and down rapidly. This is an earlier model with a speed governor valve in the carb rather than the electronic speed governor on the later models, so it seemed like it was over governing. The governor valve consists of a little spring loaded ball onto a seat. The max engine revs cause the ball to vibrate off its seat, allowing fuel to flow straight from the metering chamber to the carb throat. This richens the air fuel ratio and drops the revs. This one was over active, so I removed the governor and cleaned it. Put it back and it was fine. You still have to be careful tuning the H screw, as you have to do it below the point at which the governor operates.

Ah, the good old days of making brake pipes. If it had not been for your post I may have never remembered that I have a Sykes Pickavant brake pipe flaring kit somewhere. It has not been opened for at least 11 years. Dont suppose I will ever use it again, wonder if there is a market for it? You are welcome to borrow it Rich, bit far away though.

It is a different part number to the one for a 136, but the layout is the same. If you need one you will want 5053107-51

Of course, if Ilived on a large one way circuit, or a small island? and I always go round roundabouts the same way, it just a habit of mine:biggrin:

I was waiting for that. The left turns on our journey all tend to be ones where you stop before pulling out, in the other direction you tend to leave the main road faster and travel longer distance round the bend, putting more weight on the tyres edge for longer.

A reason for tyre wear can as simple as your driving habits. We dont do many miles a year, but all our cars have the outer edge of the nearside tyre go first and always have. This, I think, is due to country lanes, where the nearside is always trying to climb the camber, but the offside is running over the centre of the road and partway down the opposite camber. We also have more right turns on our regular routes, which again scuffs the tyres.

My daughter went on a shopping trip to the nearest Asda today (45 minutes away) Being a girlie, she needed the loo when she got there, but when she tried to get out, the door would not unlock. This was a little worrying as her 5yr old daughter and 6 yr old son were on the otherside. Anyway, superhero Ben says "hold on Mummy, I will go for help" which he did and was shortly back with a nice Asda lady who said "hold on, I will go for. help" She returned shortly with two Asda maintenance men who brought tools and proceded to dissmantle the row of cubicles, releasing a very embarrased young mum. " Not the first time we have ad to do that" says one of the guys, proudly. Relieved, and released the young family continue their shopping trip around the store, where after a while they are tracked down by the store manager led by the first Asda Lady, who shouts "thats her!" My girl is then presented with a large bunch of Asda's finest flowers and a £5.00 voucher.

Steady, Steve. I think maybe you should get out more:lol:

Here we go, this is the impulse tube of the 136. They fail frequently and are easy to access by removing the carb and mounting bracket.

It could be the hydrostatic box, they do sometimes fail. They can sometimes be given a new lease of life with an oil change. A synthetic 5w30 is ideal but expensive, 10w 40 semi synthetic will do the job, especially on a worn box. But before condemning the hydrostatic box check that the box is being driven by the belt, if the belt is slack or worn it can slip on the pulley as it warms up and not drive. Also the splines holding the pulley to the input shaft wear and then the pulley spins on the shaft. Easy to check this by getting someone to drive it whilst you observe the pulley from behind. If the pulley stops revolving as the load comes on it is a belt or pulley issue. If the machine ceases to move but the pulley keeps rotating then it is a gearbox problem.