GardenKit

With a helicoil spark plug repair there is no need to use a drill. The kit comes with a double size thread tap. The 14mm end follows what is left of the original thread and ensures that the larger helicoil tap is then perfectly lined up to cut the new thread. If done correctly a helicoil provides a perfect repair.

Pole Saw Brushcutter Lawn edger Tiller and of course, the Hedgetrimmer. This attachment is a quality bit of kit, its only downside is that it does not fold flat against the shaft, but is lockable anywhere in a 135 degree arc. The blades can be adjusted to keep them tight together. Sure, they can, and do, go wrong sometimes, just like any other, but the parts are easily obtainable, easy to fit and affordable. A gearbox repair is less likely than on a stihl, but in the event it happens it can usually be repaired for aboout 50% the replacement value, rather than scrapped.

Good luck with that one!

I have sold and serviced 1000's of Tanaka machines over the past 20yrs and IMO they are far superior to most other machines on the market.

As an Ex lifeboat cox I live in dread at having to call for help myself:biggrin:

A helicoil is the accepted means of repairing a ply thread. it is perfectly strong, in fact, as AGG said, its stronger than the original thread. As the plug now screws into steel thread rather than ally, it will last much longer than the original.

Today I had the onerous task of testing my outboard. It was playing up last season due to the float valve rubber tip having swelled up after the winter layup. Must have been due to stale petrol (I know, I know, i should have known better, just never got round to draining it.) Sorted it out at the end of last summer by replacing the inlet valve but never got the chance to test it until today. I did of course store it last winter with Aspen. It fired up immediately on the hose last night, so we filled the tank right up with Aspen and left for Fowey at 7am. On the water by 9am and out to sea. It runs like a dream on the Aspen and for the first time in my boating life there was no smell of petrol drifting around the boat. Result:biggrin:

The trees are down and the concrete is in. Hope it looks better when finished. What is it? or is it a secret?

The key should tap out with a thin punch, jou may have to drill one end to get the punch under the key. The sprockets will turn, but should act as ratchets and only turn one way, but they get water in and rust out. Its very common and in your case they certainly need replacing. The teeth of the sprocket fit over bent up tabs on the inner faces of the rollers, check they are not worn off. They sprockets screw onto the hub from one side along with the spacers and seal, and are both then locked onto the hub with the one locking ring (nut) I was hoping to post up pics tonight but did not get round to the 56 today, sorry.

Best get the adjuster now Rich, as well as the one sided flat one and the one with the single spline. They are not expensive and you will need them one day.

He uses old sump oil to lubricate the chain so I wonder what goes in the fuel tank?

It may not be the tool for you, and its not yet available, but the DR Rapidfire logsplitter is undergoing approval tests for the UK market at the present time. Not sure of the timescale, but when it does arrive it will sell in large volume. RapidFire Splitter Gallery | DR Power Equipment

The one I can see on the bay is, as you say the older one with a solid,smooth, roller. That assembly does not fit your machine. As I said earlier, that sprocket can be a bitch to remove, so its sometimes best to carefully cut it off. A 4.5" grinder with a 1mm cutting disc will have it off in a few minutes. Be carefull to cut away from the keyway. Fit both new freewheels and replace the seal as it will have hardened. Check the bronze bushes in the outer roller ends, as well as the bush bearings in the roller frame. Check the shaft for wear where it rotates in the bushes. Replace anything worn or you will be back in again before too long. As long as the 5 speed hub is driving you should be able to pull the chain and set it in any speed, even if the cable is absent. there is a plastic sprocket rivetted to the centre hub of the 5 speed, check that this is tight as the rivets have a habit of shearing. I usually replace them with small bolts or self tappers.

You can try to remove the sprocket with a suitable puller, but in the absence of such a thing use a wafer disc and cut it off the shaft, its cheaper than spending time messing around. Bunnybasher is spot on with what the problem is. If the 'rocket' sprockets will undo from central hub then undo them. Note which way they were fitted and the position of the spacer rings. Sometimes they just will not come off the shaft so rather than waste time get a new shaft as well. The gearbox you referrred to in the OP is the a 5 speed hub, the same as found inside some cycle rear wheels. They are not reliable and are often just left in whichever gear they failed, as a new one is around £110. I have a roller to do tomorrow or monday on a Harrier 56. Will try to take some pics.

Sometimes you just can't help people.

I bet you will find this is all a bit of a storm in a tea cup, that has been blown out of all proportion by chinese whispers. The so called 'new policy' is not that much different to the old policy it seems, and that one was not followed to the letter by many dealers. I am sure things will settle down and harmony will return.

There are several other major manufacturers who have been contemplating moves such as this for some time (wholegoods, not spares) but have been afraid to because of the grey legal area. I am sure they will be watching this with great interest.

I like that.... Karma:biggrin:

You do need to find out what model it is unfortunately

But they should be. I have serviced over 100 ride ons so far this year, and well over 500 pedestrians, as well as strummers and hedge cutters. There is no reason why you cant be doing the same in 10 yrs time, but for now you should be easily able to get to half that number within 2 years. 50 rideons at average £170 250 pedestrians at average £80 plus everything else In 5 months. Dont worry about Stihl... you dont need it.

Rich, saw repairs are a necessary part of of a horticultural engineering business, but are the least profitable part. I would be very happy if I never had another saw through the door, it would leave me more time for mowers. The profit is to be made in mowers, both pedestrian and ride on. There are loads more of these out there than saws so that is where you need to concentrate your efforts. The area you live in will be no different to mine for the amount of mower work to be had and you have seen the amount of work I get. You have only just started, stick with it but spread your wings.

You really need to know if your idle is too high, or if the clutch is engaging at too low a speed. So you need to tach the saw at idle, it should be 2600 revs. If it is too high and wont come down then sort out the engine and carburation. If it is correct then sort out the clutch.

And do you remember what a mess it was?

Don't scratch them then:biggrin:

Your manual is quite correct.