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tree-fancier123

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Everything posted by tree-fancier123

  1. tree-fancier123
    Shear bolt? So you dispensed with the idea of a clutch and the whole chipper disc has to turn when it's being started?
  2. tree-fancier123
    ok - interesting they were doing other ag engineering before chippers, wasn't trying to knock the company, jus playin. It was a silly attention seeking comment to make and I'm sorry.
  3. tree-fancier123
    SAE Bell Housings Made Easy! | Foley Engines
  4. tree-fancier123
    nice recon Perkins to go with it Perkins 4236 Recon Engine Jcb Fork Lift Massey Ferguson Tractor Dodge Boat | eBay this is how Greenmech started, just buying bits and bobs, then slapping it together
  5. tree-fancier123
    that is quite scary, that a small set up could damage someone's house or car, thinking the insurance will cover them, and during the claim the insurers ask to see loler certs for the lowering ropes £90 is a lot of money though
  6. tree-fancier123
    it's in the same category as having a worker to run the ropes and clear up who doesn't have climbing tickets, just don't do it, unless you want to as the lombardy fell incident proved , all the acreditations, lolers, tickets etc won't always guarantee a trouble free time
  7. tree-fancier123
    wish I could get a nice shape like that acer, can't call mine crown reductions yet - just trimming for now. Just right weather for tree work this week, can't stand the summer heat. The customer wanted the two smaller stems right out - I did say the more big cuts the more chance of fungal spores taking hold. I have seen a huge beech in the woods with a two foot stem torn out in the gales massive tear out wound and still going strong.
  8. tree-fancier123
    ha ha
  9. tree-fancier123
    if your rope is less than double tree height and you come down from near top - tie a stopper knot in the tail end so you don't descend off into mid air. Make sure not to descend too fast on a rope prussik you will burn it out. And keep an eye on the rope below you - if your nearing the end and still some way off the ground find a convenient place to stop so you can stand on a branch, secure with lanyard, then re anchor your rope over a lower branch and continue down. Minimum size for an anchor point is supposed to be wrist thickness at the top - be warned though trees are organic and it is not risk free at all - a climber on these boards failed his assessment because his anchor point broke! If you learn on some smaller oaks first it will help - metal figure 8 device can be used to abseil down cheap and saves burning your prussik loops - these prussiks should be 10mm dia approx for a 13mm climbing line
  10. tree-fancier123
    figure 8 stopper knot in the tail end
  11. tree-fancier123
    this rope if you're serious about having a go - dont forget to read the book too its not long Yale XTC Plus 25m 13mm Climbing Rope 1 Splice Tree Surgeons | eBay book THE TREE CLIMBER'S COMPANION ARBORIST GUIDE TECH BOOK | eBay you must have a lanyard to remain attached when you are advancing your climbing line - or a net below
  12. tree-fancier123
    it doesn't say the rope is partially severed in the listing it only says retired, i just meant to run it through his hands end to end to check its not nicked, sorry should have spelled that out. Before i did any courses i went up 70 80 foot oaks in the woods - i did spend a few quid more on gear than he is intending and also read Jeff Jepsons tree climbers companion - to the original poster - get this book its only 12 quid. Seriously dont ever try up a dead tree, and if you can afford to invest in a 13mm arborist rope e.g 25m Yale XTC plus all the better
  13. tree-fancier123
    here's some rope - probably wouldnt break if its not nicked (partially severed) seller just covering themselves Retired Indoor Climbing Rope 10.5mm | eBay this is an 8mm prussik loop MARLOW VIPER PRUSSIK LOOP 50-60-70CM - heat resistant | eBay you could just use a short length of the rope as a non adjustable lanyard for when you reach a branch to change over and throw your main rope (with carabiner on end) above to the next branch. death or glory
  14. tree-fancier123
    so you made a mistake as a jest, feigned ignorance, wish I hadn't posted my comment now Sugoi 360, like the thrift element, sharpens up ok
  15. tree-fancier123
    I thought it was Gomtaro? No?
  16. tree-fancier123
    sounds like you only just made it there! a barber chair on spikes doesn't bear thinking about - was it a leaner? could you have used a bore cut? what are things to look out for that may not be obvious? How would you do the same job next time around? - don't say sub it out
  17. tree-fancier123
    yes - I realize simply firing the bigshot over the top (or out through the top) of a congested crown, pulling the line up then just snapping out the twigs with a quick bounce and ascending will never be 'best practice' - 12 feet fall wouldn't do climber or gear much good.
  18. tree-fancier123
    I heard tale of an accident involving a high anchor point put in with a big shot - apparently the anchor point broke and the climber fell - it was someone on a training course talking about this, not heard any other incidents like this, but binoculars don't seem silly if going for a high branch. And bounce test with two people - although it could break a perfectly good anchor point? Personally I like the idea of a base tie over the top of the whole tree - if some of the twiggy bits break there's plenty more left.
  19. tree-fancier123
    I don't know the technical answers to your rope questions, but if you buy Yale XTC, DMM ovals and a hitch climber you will be fine, unless you saw through the rope, or the bit you are tied into is dead and breaks off
  20. tree-fancier123
    I've had same with bit of casing under top handle coming adrift, will have a go with duct tape. Was well pleased to save the £200. For me it's always dealing with the waste that takes too long, not cutting wood. If I was sawing 10" oak all week long maybe my 200T would come out of the museum.
  21. tree-fancier123
    ideal with the digger in tow, cleaning up after storms a speciality
  22. tree-fancier123
    there's a big horsechestnut about 5 metres away from my place, roots into the joins in clay drain pipes is a problem. It's not horrendous though, the drain pipes can be replaced with plastic which is much less susceptible to roots. 10 metres away sounds like it would be a lot less bother. You can google tree consultants 'your area' to get quotes to do full report. Ideally someone with a level 6 diploma in arboriculture. I gather people do inspect trees with the lower level 4, but my impression is those with level 6 are worth seeking out for their more in depth knowledge
  23. tree-fancier123
    this would do - chipper on front, trailer behind
  24. tree-fancier123
    If you're PAYE on the books why go flat out ultra efficient like a permanent military exercise? I mean if he's paying the foreman say 28k, if the foreman really pulls out all the stops and tries to bust a gut to get it done ultra efficient is he suddenly going up from 28k to 36? It's a long road to retirement - sometimes better to do just enough and not develop high blood pressure. Why can't it be - nice day - exciting climb - great surroundings, rather than yay we're the best organized most energetic fastest team going
  25. tree-fancier123
    [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEQzaS4CnL8[/ame]

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