billpierce
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Everything posted by billpierce
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can post it for about £13, dead saw (easy fix actually!) £40? no bar and chain
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these guys are good for non oem parts and i found l and s engineering seriously cheaper than others for stihl bits, especially if you ring them
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got a siezed one in the shed, carb boot leaking, but other than that complete, let me know if you need parts or want the whole saw as a donor saw. it'll be cheap! good luck!
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pm sent, about 35 quid
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you will stuggle to mill much with an 18'' bar on a 50cc saw i would saw, are you using a mill of just free cutting? plenty written arleady about bar sizes and saw sizes with alaskan mill which might be helpful to you
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chainsaw milling is like a form of torture that is worse the smaller the saw you have. have you considered a GB double ended bar (check chainsawbars.co.uk) rob reckons you can run a 461 with say a 361 on the other end which would make a big difference.
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wood stains might be a good mixture of getting to see the grain and getting a bit colour in?
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yep, that bruno is pretty good i'd say! blimey!
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Large diameter oak available kent
billpierce replied to chrisholmes19858's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
just a massive oak robot for a kids play area at a sure start centre in gateshead, they left it to us to decide what to make! was a great project! -
where abouts is that?
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Large diameter oak available kent
billpierce replied to chrisholmes19858's topic in Chainsaw Carving Forum
i use large diameter oak often, i want it to last for ages. often i get whole wind blown trees and cut it how i see fit. oak is essential for really fine detail carving that you can't get on sequoia or larch etc . in my experience the large diameter oak is usually in relatively short lengths by the time it has got to a yard or has some rot/other flaws in and most people can't be bothered to quarter it with a chainsaw before milling. know where your coming from jon - if there was a really decent long and wide oak milling is a good option, but have found that 2-3ft diameter oak lengths are more desirable for people to mill?
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i've been thinking of using the line "you pay peanuts and get monkeys" for my advertising for a while, not sure if people would see the funny side though.
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don't give up! well done for getting to where you have! be interesting to see what spud has to do to finish it off
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the 112 i have is a belter, so 115 should be mint also
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i like the look of the 115 from on old tech, proven saw view
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check you sprocket is ok if your drive links are knackered. how long have you had the bar? how many chains it been through? bars should take a while before they are worn out
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makita 4301 is about £270 and 5121 (50cc) anout £350 off ebay. but i can reccomend shavey more!
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dolly 420 or makita 4301 is a good and light and punches above its cc! shavey on here can sort you out with one (see other threads). not used an echo yet!
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yeah nice one, how much does a crane cost for a day? what music id that toots remix? reminds of [ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KzaFxGME9o]this[/ame]
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seriously, i have had 3 ms170's 14'' is whack if you bury it, 16'' is a joke, 12" is barely exceptable, but better IMO
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i've used multi fuel stoves for years burning just wood, no bother, sometimes i have removed the grate or stuck a but of sheet steel down o nthe grate (depending on design) if just using wood. best thing to do is have a good winter experimenting with it, then you'll know a bit more about it
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aarrow make pretty good stoves i think
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best on a 12"
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do not drill near the roller!
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multifuel stoves are designed to take the heat of coal, if you stick coal in a wood only stove you'll likely warp/crack the cast. generally a grate means ok for coal i think
