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billpierce

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Everything posted by billpierce

  1. any news from anyone using these chains? are they lasting ok?
  2. billpierce

    Dolmar

    shavey you know when these wee top handles are due out? or roughly what they will cost?was set on buying a 360tes but might be able to hold on a bit
  3. just get your money back on it, not exceptable.
  4. i have the back handle version of this ,which is a cracking carving saw. still a good price for someone
  5. no certainly won't do that ad any good - well aware of that! but just thought it might be a good deal for someone
  6. stumbled across this very very cheap source of top handled saws - might be good for somebody starting out or after a back up? i have used one a fair bit, absolutely nothing on an ms200, more like a ms192 i would guess (never used one), but they are light and they get the job done, i would only use a 12" bar with them. plenty folk on here have slated them, so bare that in mind if your considering it - but i would say for £170 new your not going to get much better.
  7. billpierce

    Ms084

    the 088 piston will fit the 084 i think, but the pot is different
  8. billpierce

    Ms084

    i have one, it is great, not as many parts available for them as a 088, but i think you can still get most of the essential bits your likely to wear out. they have a manual oiler push button too
  9. mine is an idiot too. i have to push down really hard as i turn to get it to twist the full way to allow it to seal proper. also when you undo it its hard to pull off. i know someone will say its just a i.q test, which will wind me up!
  10. billpierce

    Walnut

    plank it, and stack it on bearers with stickers betwixt the boards then sheet or two of tin on top
  11. i use a sheet of tin with something heavy on top!
  12. agreed! if your after a used one i have a couple on arbtrader
  13. very good, enjoyed the chogging down close to the shed! how did you tension the speedline? just with a a block?
  14. can post it for about £13, dead saw (easy fix actually!) £40? no bar and chain
  15. billpierce

    Project 064

    these guys are good for non oem parts and i found l and s engineering seriously cheaper than others for stihl bits, especially if you ring them
  16. got a siezed one in the shed, carb boot leaking, but other than that complete, let me know if you need parts or want the whole saw as a donor saw. it'll be cheap! good luck!
  17. you will stuggle to mill much with an 18'' bar on a 50cc saw i would saw, are you using a mill of just free cutting? plenty written arleady about bar sizes and saw sizes with alaskan mill which might be helpful to you
  18. chainsaw milling is like a form of torture that is worse the smaller the saw you have. have you considered a GB double ended bar (check chainsawbars.co.uk) rob reckons you can run a 461 with say a 361 on the other end which would make a big difference.
  19. wood stains might be a good mixture of getting to see the grain and getting a bit colour in?
  20. yep, that bruno is pretty good i'd say! blimey!
  21. just a massive oak robot for a kids play area at a sure start centre in gateshead, they left it to us to decide what to make! was a great project!
  22. i use large diameter oak often, i want it to last for ages. often i get whole wind blown trees and cut it how i see fit. oak is essential for really fine detail carving that you can't get on sequoia or larch etc . in my experience the large diameter oak is usually in relatively short lengths by the time it has got to a yard or has some rot/other flaws in and most people can't be bothered to quarter it with a chainsaw before milling. know where your coming from jon - if there was a really decent long and wide oak milling is a good option, but have found that 2-3ft diameter oak lengths are more desirable for people to mill?

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