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muttley9050

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Everything posted by muttley9050

  1. I've milled a few bits of Holm oak in the past and found it dried reasonably well. Used some if it for some horse name plaques for a stables. Lovely looking timber.
  2. Poplars great for worktops +shelving, also good for truck/trailer beds as it's quite impact resistant. If you get carried away with the milling you could have a go at matches?
  3. Here's a link to one rob d sells. Never used it but supposed to be pretty good stuff. http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/productspopup/5-litres-uv-cure-resin/
  4. What about lucas mill with slabber. Should do the trick.
  5. like a cracking truck for the money, would go look myself but im in the market for a super cab. 2005 FORD RANGER 4X4 TURBO DIESEL Diesel in Heathrow Villages | Auto Trader Vans
  6. They look lovely big j. Do you know what one costs?
  7. Rob had the feet but doesn't have a listing for them anymore. I saw just thinking today I need to order a foot for mine, maybe he'll get some more in?
  8. Always a pitched roof with steel sheets for me, more likely to keep the water out and easier to construct. Plus extra storage for ladders, timber etc. If I'm worried about condensation I usually put a layer of tlx gold underneath. Not cheap but great stuff.
  9. If you want a nice sturdy shed, then plans ain't too difficult. Firstly decide on what and where for doors and windows. Then source or make the correct frames. Stand the door frames up where you want them and Plumb them up. Keeping them uptight and safe with some scaffold planks with nails in the end hooked over the top with weight on the bottom. Use 4x2for frame, laying a sole plate on the floor first and fixing to concrete. Corners should be half housed. Next make a copy of the sole plate for the roof plate. Only difference is no gaps for doors. Put roof plate to side and start framing. One stud every 2ft. Start on one corner. Fix corner stud at bottom, fix stud at other end of plate. Then fit plate. Fill in gaps and continue round till complete. Not forgetting windows. Fit noggins mid height in studs. Use 4x2 for rafters, if you tell me roof pitch I'll tell you exact rafter length. Again every 600. Use 6x2 for ceiling joists at every other rafter. This is a solid shed. If storage is wanted in eaves then put more ceiling joists in. Extra timber may be needed above doors and windows depending on size. Basic cutting list. 220ft of 4x2 for roof and sole plate. 52no 2.4m 4x2 for studs. 13no 2.4m 4x2. For noggins. 40no 3.2m4x2 for rafters depending on pitch. And at least 10no 4.8m 6x2 for joists. 40ft of 6x1 for ridge. Batons for roof and bracing. Clear As mud and no plans required. I'm up for helping you out with plans if needed, but if you can get the gist of what I'm saying above then no plans required. PM if you need anything. James
  10. I've got 3 051s for milling. There good saws. 30" bar is good for them and fits perfectly in a 2ft alaskan.
  11. Thanks, I'll look them up.
  12. Thanks guys. This is the problem with Google I'm thus instance. If you Google metal detector you get an endless supply of beach type Detectors, maybe these would work but I don't know. If you include wood in a search you get endless cable and studd detectors. I'm sure these won't work. I'll look up the one you mentioned and see how I get on.
  13. Hi chaps, I'm after some lorry loads of sawlogs, cash waiting. I will pay good prices. Also interested in single trees within 100miles of Milton Keynes. Species I'm interested in are oak, larch, sweet chestnut, Douglas fir, cherry, redwood, cedar, walnut, yew, some ash and beech but not too much. 18" dbh plus. Please let me know if you have anything. Not too worried about distance, need oak ASAP for a barn project. Most species considered. Thanks James 07760263686 or PM me.
  14. There called energizers.
  15. Hi guys. I know this has been covered before but it always seems to lead back to rob d and he's not selling them anymore, so... I'm in the market for a metal detector to go along side the mill I'm in the process of buying. The only suitable one I can find is one fuelwood sell but it's about £750+vat. Which is a bit much for me. Can any one recommend a reasonable one from elsewhere? Thanks James
  16. Hi tech way is a thickness planer. But there quite dear. I can recommend the dewalt dw733, consider second hand as there very well made. Low tech way would be either a scrub plane or no5 plane. This takes a bit if skill and practice. Easiest way would be a belt sander but you won't get as good a surface as with a hand plane. James
  17. Works on my phone, Android.
  18. Max cut on 24" bar would be about 18-19" on an alaskan. As a rule knock about 5-6inches off bar length. This can be reduced by removing dogs. Chain sharpening depends greatly on what your milling. I always go out with a sharp chain. And may sharpen 2-4more times in a day. Generally when the saw stops pulling itself along or I hit metal.
  19. 24" alaskan from Rob d at chainsaw bars. Com. With a 28" bar your max cut on this mill will be between 22 and 23". Make sure you invest in the granberg ripping chain as it will make all the difference on a small saw. There a bugger to sharpen by hand so you may also want to consider a granberg 12v grinder.
  20. Where abouts is the timber, I may be interested in a load of salons if any are good enough.
  21. 28"bar with a granberg milling chain is less stress on the saw than a crosscut chain.
  22. I'd probably get a 28" bar for it and a 2' alaskan. It will be a bit slow but manageable. You should be able to Mill a tree about 36" diameter by removing sides first.
  23. Thanks for posting John. Nice to see a UK manufacturer. I looked at your website the other day and it looked good. My only gripe would be that the specs of the saw weren't clear enough. Maybe I missed something but I couldn't find a depth of cut anywhere. Look forward to the videos and good luck with the business. James
  24. Nice video, wonder how much he has to sells the spoons for to pay the rent?
  25. Thanks Johnathon Would that be an artic or 8 wheeler?

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