muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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Always wondered, how do you do screenshots on Android?
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It's certainly won't be cheap I appreciate that. Here's what I'm thinking. Good loads of decent saw logs aren't easy to find round here. I looked into buying a woodland but prices round here are ridiculous at best, especially for anything that's going to produce any amount decent sawlogs. I've decided not that I'd probably be better off buying a small parcel of land and buying sawlogs in. I often here big j speaking highly of Helmdon saw Mills in Northampton and how he dies some business with them and transportsthe lumber to Scotland. He then sells this and makes a profit. The timber I'd be buying/milling would primarily be for my own use. Just trying to get me head round the figures involved. I'm thinking if I can only buy sawlogs in my area I won't get a lorry load.
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Does anyone have an idea what it's likely to cost for an 8 wheeler from the North East? To Milton Keynes. Cheers
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I would try Osmo top oil on one and see how it goes.
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Heartwood oak rustic, wibbly wobbly structure pegs
muttley9050 replied to SteveA's topic in Woodcraft Forum
You need to make the pegs just before fitting. The wood fibres will compress and remain compressed for a while, they will slowly swell up once in the hole. Hence holes should be same size. Make sure you choose straight grained knot free timber for pegs. -
For clarity http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=68223
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Hi jojo and welcome to the fold. Nice first post. I have to agree with both sides here, I think it is selling with sex and that is something that is far too rife here. Just because you have become desensitised to something doesn't change what it is.
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Ime the reason it's still tacky is you left too much oil on the last coat. 10mins after application of last coat it should of been buffed to a dry sheen. If I were you I would take a rag slightly dampened with a polish and buff out. It will make you sweat but will look good when done. You need to buff hard and fast to generate a little heat. Regarding m/c, I have successfully applied poly X to wood around 18% and uv protection oil to wood around 25%.but they do take a little more buffing.
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What do you think of this bad boy???
muttley9050 replied to A Pettersen-Firewood&Chip's topic in Arb-Trucks
Shouldn't that picture be in the overloaded thread? -
My friend has one, I think you have the same Hitachi as me, and the dewalt is a far better tool. I think the only con would be that they use a lot more battery power so you would need an in car charger or something for fences. When mine bites the dust I think I'll treat myself to one, but then I don't use a first fix nailer that often.
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Yeah photo didn't really work but links worth clicking.
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http://viralfury.com/at-first-i-thought-it-was-a-box-of-money-man-i-was-so-wrong/
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Just stumbled across this picture ad thought I'd share it.
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Osmo poly X in my opinion seriously out classes Danish oil. Buy some try it once and you will never buy Danish again!
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Thanks for the comments guys.
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On a flat surface I like to apply with a rag, on a rough surface a brush. I find if you apply with a brush you end up taking more off with the rag afterwards which is wasteful. Either application method, apply, then leave 10 mins or so and wipe off with a clean rag then buff up with another clean rag.
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I've never really used dowels as a way to strengthen a joint. Just seems like a pain to me. I'm sure in theory it could work but never be as good as a m+t joint
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Nice work Clive. Makes me want a Lucas even more.
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I knew someone would say that. Spent a lot of time making doors and gates in my time. And I know the rules. 3 ledges + braces or 4 ledges no braces. Seen loads of solid oak gates like this with no braces and I don't think they need them. If it sags I'll know about it and I'll eat my words........
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There's 10mm gap on both sides, should be plenty I reckon. Ironmongery is very well lacquered so shouldn't stain the Oak but time will tell of course. I did suggest stainless furniture but they wanted more traditional. Furniture can be found here http://www.gatehingesboltslatchesandhandles.co.uk/products/Premium_Handforged_Gate_Fittings/Single_Gate_hanging_kits/product.asp?catid=738 Pic of back.
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Door furniture was found on line. Very reasonable. 2 hinges, ring latch and shoot bolt. All handmade. £100 all in. You don't generally put a full frame at the bottom of a gate or door. You notice the extrusions on the top side of the frame, this makes it much stronger by not having a large mortise cut out, right on the corner. You couldn't do this on the bottom so the bottom rail is lifted up a bit. Middle boards are fitted with loose tongues.
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If your going to be using it for ripping the lengths, then you definitely don't want lots of teeth. Blades with lots of teeth are for ripping. I'd get this blade for ripping, but it won't crosscut well. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/331057604998?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 This blade will crosscut well but won't rip as well. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/230500323114?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 You need to check your saw has a 30mm arbor though. I think it does but check.
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Here's a few pics of a gate I made and fitted today. 75mm thick, 1.9m tall and 1.1m wide. All Oak milled and supplied by jerry arbwork so it's nice and local.
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Beech is a lovely timber to use. Great for all indoor joinery, chopping boards, work tops, benches. It's slightly out of fashion at the moment, but I don't have a problem selling things I make from beech. If you were nearer to me I'd be interested in buying the saw logs.
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3rd..
