muttley9050
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Everything posted by muttley9050
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There's 10mm gap on both sides, should be plenty I reckon. Ironmongery is very well lacquered so shouldn't stain the Oak but time will tell of course. I did suggest stainless furniture but they wanted more traditional. Furniture can be found here http://www.gatehingesboltslatchesandhandles.co.uk/products/Premium_Handforged_Gate_Fittings/Single_Gate_hanging_kits/product.asp?catid=738 Pic of back.
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Door furniture was found on line. Very reasonable. 2 hinges, ring latch and shoot bolt. All handmade. £100 all in. You don't generally put a full frame at the bottom of a gate or door. You notice the extrusions on the top side of the frame, this makes it much stronger by not having a large mortise cut out, right on the corner. You couldn't do this on the bottom so the bottom rail is lifted up a bit. Middle boards are fitted with loose tongues.
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If your going to be using it for ripping the lengths, then you definitely don't want lots of teeth. Blades with lots of teeth are for ripping. I'd get this blade for ripping, but it won't crosscut well. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/331057604998?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 This blade will crosscut well but won't rip as well. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/230500323114?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1 You need to check your saw has a 30mm arbor though. I think it does but check.
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Here's a few pics of a gate I made and fitted today. 75mm thick, 1.9m tall and 1.1m wide. All Oak milled and supplied by jerry arbwork so it's nice and local.
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Beech is a lovely timber to use. Great for all indoor joinery, chopping boards, work tops, benches. It's slightly out of fashion at the moment, but I don't have a problem selling things I make from beech. If you were nearer to me I'd be interested in buying the saw logs. -
3rd..
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When were the boards milled Alex, and how much are they?
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Osmo poly X is the business. I apply with a rag unless it's a very rough surface, where I use a brush. Leave a couple of minutes and wipe off with a clean rag. 2 coats is usually plenty
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I've got a 250mm Hitachi. Think it's a cu90. It's a great saw, bought it from cash convertors for £50. Got a smaller skill saw bit it rarely comes out as the Hitachi is so nice to use.
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It's just a sneaky way to buy a bouncy castle for the kids on expenses!
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Thanks, I'd appreciate that.
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Hi all. I have been asked by a friend to try and source some sweet chestnut in the Milton Keynes area. He's building a small shed and wants to cleave some shingles for the roof. Please let me know if you have any available. Thanks James
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P m sent
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I may be interested in the 2" ash and oak. Whats the price for all 2" job lot. Thanks. probably wont be able to collect till first week in jan though.
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L. I. L. I. An environmental organisation that operates from where I live, used to run lots of courses from the property. One of them was how to make a burner from a gas bottle It was advertised on line with a picture of a calor gas bottle mid butchery. One day they recieved a very strong email from calor saying that if the course wasn't discontinued immediately then legal action will ensue. All of there bottles belong to them you only lease them. The course continued and the photos were changed. It was also made clear on the course description that no calor bottles would be used on the course. Honest guv.
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I acquired one very similar recently. Mine came with 10mm rope I think. Should they have an extension for the crank handle?
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It is possible, just means the brace wouldn't be all the way to the end of the door. I usually tend to go for 4 ledges and no braces on doors, but gates usually 3 with braces. I will be starting an f+l+b oak gate next week and the braces will be from corer to corner not 45 but I will think about what this chippie said while cutting them.
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Not knocking anybody work just opening this for discussion. Years ago I did a job with an old chippie, making about 20 ledged and braced oak doors. He told me all braces should always be at 4 5 degrees. I often see factory made, gates /doors that aren't. What's others opinions on this?
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Pond liner is the way to go. Made for the job. If you use felt make sure it is felt and not roofing membrane as it's not uv stable. Make sure you give the tree plenty of space in the roof and don't pull the felt/rubber tight.
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Sequoia is far too good for fire wood, stick it on the milling forum and someone will take it off you.
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Nice thread, loving the quaich.
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I'm with Holm oak and cherry
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Thanks for response, sorry it's not for sale, just on the back burner till I get all the Christmas commissions sorted. I have some similarly sized ash I may part with though.
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Thanks Rob. These are going like hot cakes at the moment. I can always buy hooks for between £2 and 2.50, depending on style. Blacksmith hooks are 10 but looking for cheaper. I am going to put prices up a little, especially for the real nice bits of wood.
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Thanks, I only use Oslo oils now unless specified in commission and they won't change. Finish on both of these is sand to 240 grit with power sander. 1 coat of Oslo poly X matt. Hand sand at 240, 1 more coat, 1 more sand and 1 final coat of oil. If you've never used Oslo oils before, do it, more expensive to buy, but better finish with a lot less coats. I used to finish chopping boards in 7 coats of tung oil, now I use just 2 coats of Osmo top oil and the finish is better and longer lasting.
