Daniël Bos
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Everything posted by Daniël Bos
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As the old poem says: Wood, when dry burns good. As recently revised on an Arbtalk thread.
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I see your 36" and raise you a 46":001_tt2::001_tt2:
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I'll be driving past Grantham in a couple of hours...?
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Hi, I have a somewhat urgent need for chip at the moment, in Scredington near Sleaford NG34. We can always take as much chip as anyone can provide (theoretically we could take at least 200.000 tons:biggrin:). But it being so wet at the moment we need as much as we can get which is pitifully little at the moment. If you're working near us or even not that near, please bring me some chip. I could also bring a trailer to your jobsite to be chipped into(3t capacity) , but would need a bit of notice as the trailer often comes with me to work. PM me or phone/text me on 07 889 774 773:thumbup: Thanks, Daniel:thumbup:
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If you've only just milled them I'd wait until the planks are dry, unless the surface is really really bad, in which case I might consider a rough plane...
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What are you putting it on? If you've got a height adjustable already, I'd just get an extra plate with a nato hitch on.
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I have this one from screwfix: Erbauer ERB080PMP 1000W Dirty Water Pump | Water Pumps & Fittings | Screwfix.com I've had it for about two years and it's been great. I use it with either 250m of 32mm pipe when 1m3 takes about 1/2 an hour on level ground. Or a 2 1/2" pipe of 3m when 1m3 takes but a few minutes. If you're moving over short distance I would put a hose bigger than the outlet size on, it makes quite a difference. It's been run of a genny about half the time (and a genny that doesn't quite get to the right voltage and Hz at that) with no issues at all. I did take the plug off it and put a normal one on (it came with an inbuilt rcd one that didn't like my genny)
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no...
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They have the right to complain, just like anybody does... I've never heard of suckering blackthorn leading to any legal action though. I'd have thought that the suckers would be considered in the same way as falling leaves. Out of the control of the owner of the tree and therefore not their responsibility?
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I have, I can't recommended it......
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The shelter will be built in a circle shape, green reciprocal roof with a glass/plexi centre, lime plastered straw bale walls. Cows better be grateful..... One man's terrorist... He's the worlds' poorest president, chooses to live a sober life, donates over 90% of his salary to charity, owns only two vehicles (a beat up old vw beetle and an old massey tractor) and has led Uruguay to have the worlds most progressive cannabis laws:001_cool:
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What Alec said above:thumbup1: The stem in the first series of pics is 30" or so, the one in the last two pics is over 38". For scale, that 880 has a 46" bar on. They could be cleft, but not by just me and not in the time I have available:001_smile:
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I just follow the middle of the tree really:001_smile: I try taking into account the "side profile" as well to make sure that as well as following the centre line there is not one quarter getting too thin.
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Just to clarify: The object of the exercise is not to cut straight. Rather than straight, I cut along the lines of the tree following the pith. The resulting beams are stronger than If they were cut straight for two reasons: Firstly they can be thicker, as taking a straight line means that wherever the tree is not dead straight the result is thinner on one side, thicker on the other. Freehand following the tree avoids this. This also means that the resulting beam has much less "wane". Where the tree has a natural bend I've followed it keeping the fibres intact. When cutting straight you'd sever the fibres resulting in a weaker timber. Timber cut the way I cut it above is stronger than straight cut timber of the same dimensions (unless the tree was totally dead straight)
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ps, I was using an old camera body, that refuses to control the AF in the lens I put on it. I was not wearing my glasses so it was hard to see if the pictures I took were in focus or not....
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Did some freehand milling of oak today:001_smile: I'm milling these trees for beams to construct a field shelter. It'll be oak framed with a reciprocal roof:001_cool: So I need bits of wood of high strength rather than dimensional accuracy as all the joints will be unique anyway.
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By four weeks...
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You can buy just the workings, build your own frame, chute and hopper to have it just the way you want it. Found this one on a polish site: R?bak walcowy GR-110 Pieni??no ? Tablica.pl Seems to have very good specs, cuts 10cm/4" 12m warranty etc. 4500 zloty is about £900...
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So, I'm the only one that thinks the 880 filter set-up is not best suited to milling?
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Just below the "quick reply" text box is a "go advanced" button, click it. Then scroll down a little to a bland looking "manage attachments" button, click that. Then choose "browse" in the box that pops up, select the files on your 'puter, and click "upload". Then when you hit "submit reply" under the text box, you should have put up some pictures.
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What is this silt? Any chance it's soil erosion from bad farming practices? The Rhine, one of three major rivers that flow through the Netherlands (you know, that country that has a major portion of land below sea level...), has a catchment area that is a fair bit bigger than the land mass of England and Wales combined. Perhaps there are lessons to be learned?
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'ello When using the 880 in big oak, the filter gets clogged far too quickly in my opinion. I have used a piece of stocking around it as a pre-filter, take spare filters out with me etc but these measures do not address the problem. The problem as I see it is that the filter just gets exposed to too much dust by design. So, if the saw is used in an Alaskan, I wondered if anybody had attached an external filter to the saw. I'm thinking a mill-mounted (in the middle, least dust?) fairly large filter connected to the saw with a flexi hose and attached with the normal filter screw connection so it's easy to take off. Any thoughts, comments, experiences appreciated.
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Perhaps not strictly porting or tuning, but.... If I take the existing exhaust of my 880 and replace it with a motor bike one of similar cc-age will that be ok? To elaborate: The 880 would only be used like this on the mill, with the exhaust fixed to the mill and attached to the saw with a flexi piece. This to quieten the operation a bit and direct the exhaust gasses away from me rather than in my face with the current set up. I thought perhaps I could tune the exhaust to match the saw by making sure it was oversized to begin with, then squeezing the end until it runs just right.
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How are the woodlands separate? Are they owned by different people?
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Stihl motomix has been available in some more civilised countries for years, seems very much the same as Aspen. Same price, same potential issues and similar benefit claims.
