Daniël Bos

I use the following: 10" on ms180 15" on 550xp 20" on 365xt/372xt 36" and 46" on ms880 on the mill...

I don't think many people know what base their chain oil is made from? (Apart from TCD obviously, resident oil-geek extraordinair). I used to only use Stihl non-bio without any problems. I now use rape oil exclusively without issues, for a few reasons: Its fully biodegradable (and properly so, not just under test environment s...) It has undergone no processing, minimising its carbon footprint. Its grown pressed and packed in Britain, again minimising Cfp. Its completely safe to handle. Its available everywhere, any corner shop sells it. Its much easier to wipe of the saw if you spill some in it. Its cheap! It works well. ( I deduce that from the fact I've never had a chain snap from wear-induced weakness, my bars wear at the same or slower compared to when I used Stihl oil. ) In short: in my opinion "proper" chain oils offer no real benefits over rapeseed oil. Chain oil = snake oil?

I found the t540 one, I'll add it to my next order from Honeys when I next need summat probably. I have a solution now, thanks chaps, but... The hedgetrimmer ones confuse me, I looked for descriptions of them, found the 325he4 to supposedly have an auto return switch, googled a parts list but the part number comes up the same as the one for the saws?

Echo part?

Got a link? My searches lead nowhere again?

There normally is and it has quite a lot of other info on it too, it's called a man-something?

I have a 550 and it has the auto-return switch, I love it. I have a 365xt as of lunchtime today and it doesn't have an auto-return switch, it's switch is clunky and not great. I read on here about someone who fitted an auto-return switch to their saw, but my searches so far have been fruitless. I've spent literally minutes and minutes googling and searching on here and ebay and baileys and such, but nothing... So, who has an after-market auto-return switch on their Husky? Where did you get it? how much pennies? Cheers, Daniel.

Ah well, you live and learn. At least it's an easy issue that's easily rectified and has hopefully done no permanent damage apart from the chain?

It looks like a new bar, was it on a new saw? If so, it was the spacer that mr Husqvarna put in to stop the clutch cover warping as the bar nuts are tightened with no bar on. When you first put the bar on, it should have been taken off. If it wasn't the bar was on wonky and the chain running off-center explaining all your symptoms...

So will other products you make (the above thingie baffles me completely, does it have summat to do with climbing trees?) be called: The Ultimatum, Supremacy, and Identity?

I hope it serves you well Adam, and puts a smile on your face when you need it most:thumbup1: I do miss it a bit, I suppose I'll just have to get over it:001_smile: Have you been using up the Aspen I gave you? Whaddaya think?

Maybe you could find a middle way? If you let your boss know that you're not 100% confident but are willing to give it your best, and does he still want you to do it? It gives you a carte blanch to make mistakes, without losing face. And if you get it all perfect it shows your employer you're able and willing to push your boundaries and thrive under challenging circumstances. I've had people work for me who told after they'd made a right mess they'd never done that job before. Infuriating to say the least, if they'd told me in advance I'd have set them up for success for both them and me. PS I'm mildly worried about your postcount......

I did an exhaust mod on my 550xp the other day as it's out of warranty now. It has really woken the saw up, it wasn't really that snoozy to begin with but boy does it make a difference. In bar length oak (15") it's quicker than my 880 (with a 46" bar...) It sounds a bit different but not really much louder which is good and took all of 40 seconds. I'll try and remember to take some pics later in the week.

Just checked, but unfortunately you're wrong. The ones on offer are Ripeur 1, which are similar but don't have any cut resistance on the back of the glove. Ripeur 2 are the ones you want. PS I don't really get commission, though I wish I did.

What are you all on about? I got it on the floor didn't I?

The equivalent-ish to ancient people's allowances (I have trouble calling them rights...) is C1. That allows you to drive a vehicle up to 7500kg plus a trailer up to 750kgs. I would (and did) Get C instead: same test, same cost, same training but allows you to drive vehicles without weight restrictions, so as big as a rigid can be (28t ???)

Blackthorn has flowers before leaves, Apple (really?) and Hawthorn don't.

Another plus vote for Tesgol and the Highway products. I put a Highgway BB kit on my 660, and the finish on the cylinder esp was better than the oem one. When it did explode (through my incompetence) both Tesgol and the Highgway company were the most helpfull I've ever known any company to be over a warranty question. They paid for the whole saw (now scrap) to be collected from me and sent to the manufacturers in Thailand where they examined it. Even though I'd fitted a slightly modded exhaust, smoothed the inlet, slightly re-shaped and bevelled the exhaust and slightly enlarged the transfers they made no issue of these things, as they had not caused the problem. When it turned out to be my fault (after the seventh or eighth assembly I must have omitted the base gasket I'd made:blushing:) they still paid me for keeping my scrap saw (£150-£200, can't quite remember) and would have paid me double that towards a replacement saw had they found a manufacturing fault. Best service ever!

I'd have thought there was a clue in "as soon as you pick it up it stalls"? I'm by no means an expert but I'd say that there is a mechanical issue (air leak, pinched/cracked fuel line, that sort of thing) that becomes worse when you move the saw in on particular way, ie when you pick it up?

The first pic confused me a little, A tracked chipper with tree shears, awesome!... oh no it isn't:blushing:

If it's a roller nose bar and you just need a little bit more throat have you tried "the coin", an invention made by me valued at potentially £3.-! Put a coin of the biggest possible size you can fit on the ring of rivets that hold the sprocket (you can go slightly bigger than the rivets) on both sides of he bar. Then add a couple of (the same) coins on the powerhead side to make the same height off the bar. Put these on top, as wide apart as possible for stability and levelness. You do have to keep the added height in mind when setting up the mill. I put a coin (same coin...) on a string so I could just change the setting on the mill by taking away 1 coin thickness off the marks on posts.

Fantastic piece! And to rectify a common misconception: The Vikings were not exceptionally tall. They were just taller than the other people around at the time. By today's standards they would be quite short. The ancient Danes would be around 4"/10cm shorter than is currently average in Britain...

Would any of these suggestions work on a telegraph pole? I have one in my garden that used to have the power on. That got put underground this summer but they left the pole as BT has tacked a phoneline to it. I can move the phoneline and have some good use for the pole. But how to get it out?

A question: If there was no nose weight to consider, and no weight transfer between the trailer and towing vehicle (it's a turntable trailer) what would be the ideal hitch height for traction? If we presume the vehicle is a defender 90: High up, so the trailer pulls the car onto it's rear axle more?, but then pushes the back up on braking. Low down, does that have a slight lifting effect on the back axle? Chassis height? I've given this some thought but there's probably someone out there who's armed with facts and such... Cheers, Daniel

Buurman and Buurman (which translates to "neighbour and Neighbour") featured heavil in my childhood, Superb stuff. I think it's Czech. Didn't know they'd done a tree-vid!