Daniël Bos

Unless you also find a fossilized cross-cut saw, I doubt you'd ever get a fossilized cross section like that (trees failing in a more ragged way generally) but I'm no expert at all.

Cheers David, I'll go out in a minute and plait a twig:biggrin:

Nice, any particular species that it seems to be more prevalent in? I quite fancy "inducing" the odd one in my plantings:001_smile:

Is that not a Bay (laurel)?

I had some green oak grading queries a while ago, and a member on here (Who's not posted since, and this was his first and most excellent contribution) put me on to this: www.forestry.gov.uk/pdf/GreenoakAppendicesRefsGlossary.pdf/$FILE/GreenoakAppendicesRefsGlossary.pdf It's a PDF with an excellent guide to green oak grading.

Worth keeping! Elwell Axes are amongst the most highly regarded, on par with the current Gransfors Bruks Axes and quite sought after. Good quality tool that will hold (probably increase) it's value for many years to come. Don't be tempted to clean it with abrasives (angle grinder, sander, wire brush on drill) if you wish to sell it, have a look at the best way to clean it up. Collectors like to see the ageing of the metal so it's value will only decrease if you sand it to a bright finish. Having said that, it's not worth a fortune, but I'd say at least £50.

My dad used to have a saab 99. If you take the (massive!) front bumper off it's decidedly boat-shaped. So he put a ply board from the bumper back under the engine and had a good go at crossing the ford at as high a speed as possible. At 100km/h he could cross the ford (about 2ft deep about 8m across) without getting the sills wet. It did affect the high speed handling a little due to the lift generated and the mot man didn't like the absence of a bumper for some reason?

I take it you didn't follow the link, about how they moved a Moreton Bay Fig?

Me and 'er once left a small festival in our peugeot 306, towing a vintage caravan packed with a 24ft yurt in and on it. It had rained a fair bit and the access tracks had become quagmired. I placed my dearest on the bonnet for more weight and thus traction and on our way out we drove past a landrover and trailer that was being towed by another landrover that was being towed by a tractor (all were spinning wheels at different rates...) We drove straight out without any issues whatsoever.

I live on the corner of "gorse drove" and "gorse lane" the thing that seems to do best here and what they've replaced all the gorse with is tarmac! not a gorse bush left within at least 20 miles of here.

I thought the 555 was a detuned 560? which means it still has autotune electrickery which the OP wanted to avoid? Anyway, a 555 is within £20 of a 365XT (presuming 18")... Can a detuned 560 outcut a 372...?

Help! My google searches and phoning round has proved fruitless so far. I need 150m2 of 3/4" (or near, 18-22mm is fine as long as it's all the same) planks in 5m lengths (though I could take 4.8's if needed) Widths not that important (80mm+) So if it was 100mm, I'm after 300 lengths. Only one square edge needed. Green or dry, not bothered. Species not important, I'll have what I can get. I can collect within 75m of NG34 or delivery is ok too. Where can I buy the above at short notice? Rough price indication? Thanks, Daniel.

Brand new ebay account, no feedback, no good I'd say. If you're interested check with Lister Wilder whether they have serviced a machine from Edinburgh and if so what condition it is in, post them a link to the listing.

Exhaust gasses exit quicker, thus there is scope for an increased flow of fuel/air mix into the engine as well (which is what increases the power). Different amount of air/fuel through the engine has the potential to alter the ratio of fuel to air. Checking the plug colour can give a good indication of the fuel/air ratio that's being burned.

South Africans don't need a drill to put holes through their gateposts.... dumpert.nl - In Zuid-Afrika hebben ze geen boormachine nodig

Done:thumbup:

Husqvarna 365 x-torque. Trusted simple design, a bit old school but not too outdated. Can be converted into a 372 x-torque very easily (google it) no parts needed. By far the most "bang for your buck" as the colonials say. Had a quick check and it's the same sort of money as the Stihl 391 (within £20) but will eat the Stihl easily in 365 guise and leave it miles behind after conversion.

Just the same but without those straps on the side. Nice colour though!

I can see them fine on my macbook, are you a true believer Jon?

Walnuts have catkins, but all my walnuts are reddish when they first open leaf (the leaves come out red, then turn green) but maybe tropical Wiltshire is a bit ahead of us backward folk in Lincs?

Go to a big Ag dealer if you have one locally and ask for a set of worn tracks. They should give them to you for free, they'll need to pay to get rid otherwise. Chop them open so you've just got a long belt and score under the first drive lug. With enough horse power you can then rip the lugs of in one go (they are moulded onto a separate steel belt, rubber moulded to the track) and presto, an indestructible, somewhat flexible/semi-rigid solution. An other option would be the tread section of a tractor tyre (same Ag dealer, should be free again), which is a lot lighter both in weight and construction. Just cut the sidewalls of with a sharp knife (don't be tempted to use power tools, they melt the rubber and make it a very hard job, a sharp knife cuts tyres easier than you'd expect). Tyre tread is lighter and more flexible (tracks are very heavy) I have a set of tracks of a Challenger (Big tracked tractor, 600+hp) that I've had in a gateway all winter to drive the landy plus 4ton trailer through a very muddy gateway. Only sunk about an inch after more than 120ton of wood has been over it.

Sorry to hear that Mr egg.

You'll be fine, but as a precaution have snow chains and a 12v compressor on board. Snow chains are fairly self explaining, they'll also help a lot in muddy conditions. A rear wheel drive van with chains is not much if any worse than a 4x4 without. The compressor is to pump up your tyres again after you've let as much air out (of the driven tyres...) as you dare when you start to skid. It's much faster and easier than chains and very effective. It can increase the amount of tread in contact with the ground by up to 3 or 4 times.

Clap your hands together at half the speed you can do so, they exert an equal amount of force on each other. Now if your thinking was correct, clapping one hand against the wall with twice the speed would result in the same impact on the hand. Have a go, bash that wall at double speed then see what hurts more...

Dunno? But with just the carb swap it cut faster, I timed it, same bar and chain. I think the tuneability with the 210 carb allows it to run just right, the 180 carb does not. I've ported and exhaust-modded mine as well, but there was measurable gain with just the carb swap.