spudulike

Take the side rubber grommet off the air filter box and when you rev it and release the throttle so it is racing, push the throttle end down so you are forcing it closed and if it is still racing, you have an air leak. I have seen bits of twig enter the carb adjustment holes causing fast idles before. If the above still allows the idle to race, most likely issues are the impulse line has come off under the air box or the inlet manifold is split. Getting the saw running and pushing down on the top handle with the saw on the ground will show if it is the inlet boot.

Take my advice and not get in to this one! Just take it as another opinion!

I have a mate in the business and he rates the MS194, I did the muffler mod on his but he really rates the saw. It runs the 1.1mm 1/4 inch chain from standard and therefore goes like a rabid MS150. I always laugh when guys race a "Ported" MS200 against the Mtronic MS201......what is "Ported"??? Let me tell you that a 6mm hole in the muffler isn't a ported saw in my eyes!!

Depends on your skill set and understanding of engineering. Replacing the parts is relatively simple and may just work, pressure testing carbs needs a Mityvac or similar or a pop off tester which are relatively specialist bits of kit. My advice - change the parts and see if it cures the issue then take it to a specialist.

Just done yet another 2511....well trodden path😉

Some of these Echos have a port that is formed 90 degrees from the exhaust outlet - the 2511 is the same....the port points downwards but the exhaust is on the side so it looks like it is partially blocked but isn't.

I had some issues with swap overs from petrol to Aspen in the past. My theory was that after years of running petrol, the Aspen somehow is purging the tank/fuel system and pulling the petrol residues through the carb - never proved 100% though. The times this happened, I cleaned the carb, retuned and all was good and latterly recommended the owner running a couple of tanks of Aspen through before I replaced the rubber fuel parts. Aspen is fine on new kit or kit that hasn't seen much use but on something a few years old and in regular use, swapping out the fuel lines and diaphragms is advised and if you get the sort of issues you have, just strip the carb, flush it out with carb cleaner then reassemble and tune. It is well known that absence of petrol when using Aspen contracts and hardens the rubber causing fuel issues and fuel leaks. This is the LACK of petrol and NOT Aspen causing the issue. It is also recommended to tune the L screw a little richer if swapping as you can get a throttle lag otherwise. Some just change with no issues....it is a mixed up, muddled up, shook up world as The Kinks sang!

Pretty much what he said on an engine you don't want to strip. I tend to get the skirt of the piston in to view and then push the carbon around the port and once loose, give it a blast of carb cleaner and a very short blast of the compressor to blow out all the debris - the piston seals it and ensures all the shyte comes out rather than in to the engine. The Yanks like the Seafoam, never seen it in the UK so never used it!

Not sure I get the thought process......the air filter will make the engine run a little richer as the filter acts like a partial choke, a very dirty one is like having the choke half on . If you remove the air filter - the revs of the machine, when flat out, will normally rise a bit. The better performance may just be down to getting a bit more flow in to the engine but if anything, it shows the machine is running a bit rich and taking off the air filter leans it down and this improves it. Tuning the carb to the engine state is a good idea but it may just be carbon in the exhaust port, a coked up muffler or blocked spark arrester if fitted.

I think you will find this interesting - looks like you just need a spacer but note this is a safety device and as such, make sure it actuates the brake all along the top edge of the guard as it should and make sure the part by the recoil cover does rotate freely and isn't solidly clamped...... https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/084-handgaurd.156443/

May be worth trying the one off the 088, it may work although the crankcases are different but it may fit or be close enough to be modified to fit. Hand Guard for Stihl MS780, MS880 Chainsaws - 1124 792 9110 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Hand guard Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1124 792 9110 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: MS 780, MS 880, 088

It is rare when I do these machines as they are relatively low cost so don't get to do them too often. The oil pump is like the ones in the pole saw attachments and do those more regularly. Just follow it through - when you pull the pump out, make a note of the positioning of the oil channels on the pump and make sure it is pushed back in with the channels in the same position otherwise you will block the oilways. Good luck

That all depends on your ability. Here is a similar job done on a MS250, best make sure the oiler pinion is OK and the arm on it hasn't had its end worn off or is loose on the plastic pinion once the clutch is off and before you remove the pump. You can try a bit of watering down the oil with diesel/spirit before this but in my experience, it is easier just to do the full job. Fill your boots: -

Nope, no adjustment on these machines. Best remove the pump as it is either worn or probably plugged with fine wood chip particles!

You could try running 5L of Aspen through it. The saws I have seen that have had this have purged a lot of carbon out of their cylinders and ports. Your piston looks pretty good after I enhanced the image, you can see the machining marks on it: - Is the port completely clear of carbon as it looks to be partially closed?

I'm beginning to like this fella!!

A bloke sent a 372 in from France once.....clean air filter that wasn't.....Water and suds will work OK if you compressor it afterwards - you need to clear the open areas!

Sorry Andy, that water oil and dirt settles in the open areas and makes it look like the filter is clean but it is well and truly plugged and will make the AT run lean. The only real way of cleaning is to pass air through them after softening the crud with a spirit of some sort!

It is rare where I need to change filters off 560, 372, 346, 550 etc. I just clean them thoroughly and withstand the blast from my Chinky Compressor. Sorry...no sales increase😉

It may just be over use of oil or poor quality oil or/and running rich. Just use 50:1 semi synth oil, clean the piston lightly - it looks in real good shape and then rebuild and tune the top end to within 500rpm of the max revs spec. That should help it out!

They made changes to the clutch, main bearings, crankcase and a few other parts along the way. It wasn't a true redesign like the 550 but there were significant changes.

The gauze strainer and also perforated flaps on the pump diaphragm have been seen before.

20psi......you are having a laugh, I always give it the full monty, 120psi or whatever the compressor can muster. Don't knock on my door if you paper the workshop in filter mesh but have never seen it to date. I guess I must have higher regards to Husqvarna engineering than ADW😉😃

It says not in stock but L&S are generally very good at chasing in parts and letting you know where they are with your order...... Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw - 1124 190 0600 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1124 190 0600

That's bloody classic, sounds like me singing in the car and use that term most loosely!