spudulike

This may help, it has a plastic handle rather than the earlier metal one you have but the components are the same: - http://bepps.mrwebit.se/spraengskisser/JIPL1987_I8700004.pdf

The Chinky ones are never the same!

Oh....I also like to keep the manufacturers on their toes...sort of lets them know that some see what others are totally unaware of

My thinking is that if the thread went on a normal formed plug thread, you can helicoil it. If this failed, you can't helicoil it and are forced to use an insert of some type which is far more difficult. It would have been nice to know before purchasing or had a discount in price to reflect the issue but I just, as usual, noticed this on a customers machine and realized the spare I hold was exactly the same! Not quite what I expected. Better than sticking in the landfill but would have been nice to know!

Has anyone else purchased a new OEM Stihl MS200t cylinder recently (last 2 months) only to see it have been repaired by I assume..Stihl? I have seen two of these cylinders, one on a customers machine, one I had on the shelf, come in with a helicoiled plug hole. All I can think is that Stihl had an issue with the CNC plug hole tap, perhaps it got chipped, and this damaged a load of cylinders that they then salvaged by helicoiling them. Never seen it before and the next one I have just purchased came in exactly as it should be. I guess they cocked a load up and thought "fixing" them was better than dumping them. Whilst I agree with the sentiment, I don't like new parts being repaired without some compromise offered.

I think it was a pun...a bit dry but funny all the same....be thankful it wasn't fish related!

I do find Syrup Pudding and Custard retains heat very well..may be the way forward!

Even better, Just experiment and see how it goes.

That's right, you need a thermal conductor between the fire and the bricks. Water would do it but may corrode over a while. Sand may work and would be less messy. You should be able to find someone ripping storage heaters out of somewhere!

Firebricks.....what about old storage heater bricks....they are there to store heat and emit it over a long period!

I would guess the tank is copper from the blue/green colour!

Looks pretty simple one to me.....my skip arrives Friday and 20 years of collecting "that useful piece of...." goes. Mine is much worse than that....I generally can't see my floor on a busy week

Just don't use the decomp. The type fitted lower the compression to the point that the saw tends not to start too easily. You could fit the type on the later model 346, it should have a smaller vent hole!

It may have just been flooded and the time it was stood, allowed the cylinder to dry out but glad it is running again. always good when a saw fires up again like that.

So...if the air filter is blocked, any saw will run rich as you are shutting off air and putting more of a pull on the carb high speed check valve as you do on a half or full choke setting. On the AT saw, it recognizes that the engine is over fuelling so it leans down the amount of fuel going to the engine. If you look at the AT jet figures you can clearly see that the H jet will be running lean to compensate for the blocked air filter. That is the point I was making after ADW mentioned that the AT fault codes are a bit iffy and the thing to look at is the H&L jet figures on the AT print out. If a non AT saw had a blocked air filter and you did a Tach tune, you would lean down the saw in the same way but you would then cock the setting up when you cleaned the air filter. The AT unit will richen the fuel if an air leak is present.....those jet figures are about the only interesting thing on the print out TBH!

That's because I am right!!!

Why?? If the air filter is blocked, the AT will LEAN the mix as the blocked filter is over fueling, if the gauze strainer is blocked or the pump diaphragm is shagged, the AT will richen the mixture due to the system not delivering enough fuel!!! If you look at the AT jet settings....you would come to the same conclusion....wouldn't you???

If you can't fit a finger in the crack then it really isn't subsidence IMO!!

As ADW says, those fault codes are for people without lack of imagination and are generally pretty misleading and the Jet codes are what the AT unit works out the machine needs and it is this info that anyone with half a brain diagnoses. If they are running lean - expect a blocked air filter, rich may be a blocked gauze strainer or bad pump diaphragm or air leak. If you are checking yourself, check the gauze strainer and the pump diaphragm pump flaps. The strainer may be full of fine wood chip or the pump flaps may be perforated on impact with the holes they block.

That Fixed it: -

L&S Engineering - they are a Makita parts stockist and are one of the best.

The difference in smell between smoke and the smell of a chimney stack is completely different. The smoke smells like woody smoke (unless burning coal) and the smell of a chimney stack is more clawing, acrid smell like damp, claggy carbon from when you clean your chimney - not like smoke at all. It is amazing the pull on air from a stove. If I have been cleaning stuff in the garage, the stove pulls that much air you get a paraffin type smell in the room with the fire in it and ventilation fans can easily pull down the smell of the stack in to the room as has previously been mentioned.

That's a bit high brow for on here, The Nutcracker is pretty easy on the ear and a typical Christmas affair. Mozart is a good call if you get in to the classics - The Requiem and Marriage of Figaro if you like a bit of Opera!

That's OK, I think you got away with it!

Most of the poor running ones I have had in have had the carbs "adjusted" and this has fooked up the running. This one sounds a bit lean on the L screw...often adjusted that way to meet emission laws.