spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Even better, Just experiment and see how it goes.
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That's right, you need a thermal conductor between the fire and the bricks. Water would do it but may corrode over a while. Sand may work and would be less messy. You should be able to find someone ripping storage heaters out of somewhere!
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Firebricks.....what about old storage heater bricks....they are there to store heat and emit it over a long period!
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I would guess the tank is copper from the blue/green colour!
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Looks pretty simple one to me.....my skip arrives Friday and 20 years of collecting "that useful piece of...." goes. Mine is much worse than that....I generally can't see my floor on a busy week
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Just don't use the decomp. The type fitted lower the compression to the point that the saw tends not to start too easily. You could fit the type on the later model 346, it should have a smaller vent hole!
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It may have just been flooded and the time it was stood, allowed the cylinder to dry out but glad it is running again. always good when a saw fires up again like that.
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So...if the air filter is blocked, any saw will run rich as you are shutting off air and putting more of a pull on the carb high speed check valve as you do on a half or full choke setting. On the AT saw, it recognizes that the engine is over fuelling so it leans down the amount of fuel going to the engine. If you look at the AT jet figures you can clearly see that the H jet will be running lean to compensate for the blocked air filter. That is the point I was making after ADW mentioned that the AT fault codes are a bit iffy and the thing to look at is the H&L jet figures on the AT print out. If a non AT saw had a blocked air filter and you did a Tach tune, you would lean down the saw in the same way but you would then cock the setting up when you cleaned the air filter. The AT unit will richen the fuel if an air leak is present.....those jet figures are about the only interesting thing on the print out TBH!
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That's because I am right!!!
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Why?? If the air filter is blocked, the AT will LEAN the mix as the blocked filter is over fueling, if the gauze strainer is blocked or the pump diaphragm is shagged, the AT will richen the mixture due to the system not delivering enough fuel!!! If you look at the AT jet settings....you would come to the same conclusion....wouldn't you???
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If you can't fit a finger in the crack then it really isn't subsidence IMO!!
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As ADW says, those fault codes are for people without lack of imagination and are generally pretty misleading and the Jet codes are what the AT unit works out the machine needs and it is this info that anyone with half a brain diagnoses. If they are running lean - expect a blocked air filter, rich may be a blocked gauze strainer or bad pump diaphragm or air leak. If you are checking yourself, check the gauze strainer and the pump diaphragm pump flaps. The strainer may be full of fine wood chip or the pump flaps may be perforated on impact with the holes they block.
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The who can get most outraged at bad treework thread.
spudulike replied to Mick Dempsey's topic in Picture Forum
That Fixed it: - -
L&S Engineering - they are a Makita parts stockist and are one of the best.
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Smell from next doors wood burner
spudulike replied to Sashwindow's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
The difference in smell between smoke and the smell of a chimney stack is completely different. The smoke smells like woody smoke (unless burning coal) and the smell of a chimney stack is more clawing, acrid smell like damp, claggy carbon from when you clean your chimney - not like smoke at all. It is amazing the pull on air from a stove. If I have been cleaning stuff in the garage, the stove pulls that much air you get a paraffin type smell in the room with the fire in it and ventilation fans can easily pull down the smell of the stack in to the room as has previously been mentioned. -
That's a bit high brow for on here, The Nutcracker is pretty easy on the ear and a typical Christmas affair. Mozart is a good call if you get in to the classics - The Requiem and Marriage of Figaro if you like a bit of Opera!
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That's OK, I think you got away with it!
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Most of the poor running ones I have had in have had the carbs "adjusted" and this has fooked up the running. This one sounds a bit lean on the L screw...often adjusted that way to meet emission laws.
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I didn't like to say
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I have only known a machine to backfire when a coil has failed, incorrect coil/flywheel has been used or the flywheel key has failed. The only exception is the 372XPT and Echo CT2511 where I reckon the ignition retardation on the coil starting circuit was a tad too much causing a backfire on startup but disappears once running!
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And the last post is why most fail as it is no where near 1&1 turns that is generally normal and in my opinion, the average guy doesn't have much of a clue as to how to adjust a carb correctly.
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It is down to the manufacturer, if it is a top end manufacturer wanting goods created to the top spec and the money is right, the Chinese Manufacturers will of course create a good quality product and within spec. The issues arrive when a £10 carb replaces an OEM £110 carb that has a few more built in devices to ensure correct running. Sometimes it can work and sometimes it doesn't. I have found good and bad on MS200Ts and most MS660s have suffered poor idle. Just the way it is. You DO get what you pay for...although the egg topper I got whacks the top off a boild egg perfectly for £4.50 but that is another story!!
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They usually run badly when the uninitiated adjust the carb not knowing what they are doing. Just set it back to factory and adjust from that point. I take it the air filter is nice and clean
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I wonder what happened!
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The screw isn't an issue but don't think I have a gasket kicking around. I just stock parts that allow me to finish jobs in one hit rather than having to dismantle, order parts, store the machine and then fix when the parts come in. I prefer to sort the machine in one hit, easier for me and the customer.
