spudulike

It is usually the clutch that wears and can cause spring issues like this. Drums tend to get two ridges worn on the inner surface and in bad cases, they can burst which isn't nice The inner drum surface should be checked as well as the outer friction part of the shoe and these should be flat. Real old ones form two humps on both edges of the shoe.

Same as if you built an MS200T from parts or probably anything else. I guess it is the distribution costs, elevated margin etc etc......

Good luck with that. Generally most saws have the same parts fail but crack on. The inserts break probably because people take off the inner cover and never refit it correctly. One of those common failures!

Good decision and good outcome! Thanks for letting us know.

Are the bearing and drum OEM or aftermarket? I have noticed the aftermarket springs are pretty iffy at best so the first few may be just that. The clutch will only get really hot if it slips when under load and when knocking the chain-break on at full tilt a few times. If the clutch is good then it really shouldn't get hot enough to damage springs in normal use! If the crank was worn, it would show in the drum being wobbly. If the crank was bent, the saw would vibrate like mad if it did run at all, If the main bearing was shot, the machine would rumble badly and you would feel it if you moved the clutch around. Bit baffling but be assured, there will be a reason for the issue, you just have to find it. Put some pics up of the clutch cover inside and the assembly....it may tell us something.

I believe the general consensus is no body has a clue. The owner thinks he has a 350, the man from the manufacturer reckons 550XP and from the look of the pics, I can see where he is coming from but who knows. I guess it is a bit like not knowing what model of car you drive......." you mean it isn't a mini and you tell me it is a M3 BMW....well...spank me with a kipper!!!!!

Glad it worked out, seems pretty lively, poor little tree

It must be a 350 isn't it....easier to ad an XP then jumble the numbers about and add a 3 and dispose of a 5 No wonder it isn't tensioning correctly If the tensioner is on the clutch cover, it may be a 550, if it is on the crankcase.....it may be a 350 or some other model...who knows!!

Are the pawls straight and free to move plus the springs in good shape?

Looks like a chain has come loose and nipped the alloy but the chain tensioner carriage should keep straight in the channel, even with that damage and can't see how this would make the tension slip. Are you sure you are tensioning the chain properly and the oiler is functioning correctly?

All good, no problem, strong saws and should last a long time.

Maximum revs are 13500 so I would aim for around 13,000rpm as it gives a degree of safety if you get a slight air leak, slight blockage in fuel filter/gauze strainer etc. The saw should always be set with the load of a bar and chain fitted and also with a clean air filter. Get it up to operating temp before setting. You may need to pull out the H screw limiter cap - a wood screw will do it if it is still in - the cap is red in colour. I usually screw the wood screw in, turn it gently anticlockwise until it will go no further (this aligns the small key tab) and then pull it out, turn the H screw anti clockwise 1/2 turn and refit the cap as I don't trust people to fiddle and screw up my setting! You then just rev the saw flat out for a couple of seconds, register the revs and adjust the H screw anti clockwise if too high. This brings in more fuel and acts like a rev limiter for the saw. This model and the MS361 tend to over rev when well worn in and the H caps usually need removing.

As ABBA said...winner takes it all.....Ratman has a fall...........sorry bud, just say it as it is, done one or two 200s now

This pic isn't OEM, too polished/turned around the inlet mount, no numbers on the plate by the plug hole and the piston has a laser etched arrow, not a stamped ID.....that would worry me!

Oh.....you also have a plug insert of some sort on that cylinder of yours....not that it matters.

Just go to L&S and purchase an OEM kit. This is a working saw, you want top compression and performance. Most AM kits are pretty suspect and if you think paying £40 more for a kit on a saw that will earn you that back in the first two hours is too much, you need a psychologist and not a mechanic. So to recap - I said check the piston and cylinder in my first response. On finding the split boot, I said the piston and cylinder will be shot...we are ten days on and my track record has been pretty good. If you want the saw back to good working order, OEM boot, OEM cylinder kit and I would do the accelerator pump in the carb for good measure but is up to you as it is a bit tricky to do. The OEM kit is not bad value and will give you the best running saw plus will last years if set up OK.....it makes sense and you pay cheap, you pay twice. If you phone and plead poverty, they may give you a bit of a discount....... You can go the Stubby route, it is the way I used to do it but the supply of Meteor pistons has dried up plus you need to purchase a hone and know how to use it etc.....BUY A NEW OEM KIT!!! Cylinder With Piston 40 mm for Stihl MC200, MS200T - 1129 020 1202 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Cylinder with piston 40 mm Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1129 020 1202 Suitable for the following Stihl...

The guy has fitted a good carb from a working machine otherwise I would agree with you. In my first post I did say remove the muffler and look at the state of the piston as many are shot now. The split inlet boot would have seized the piston and it is rare that the inlet bot splits and the owner stops using the machine immediately......most seize the saw in my experience! So....check the state of the piston!

He is playing B A and G so suspect it will be based on the G chord but no idea exactly what it is.

Yup, nice and hot....been burning a fair bit this winter.

Sounds about right from my experience of a former neighbour at a previous property known as "The Bell End".

Yes on the CAT, they tend to sap power and make cold running an issue. The last bit about US machines on UK fuel is BS BTW.

Should be OK then and they are a tight fit against the crank - it eases with time.

Relatively normal for them to be tight - is that turning by the crank shaft stub or the flywheel or clutch? Did you put them in the correct way round?

Seen it all before....even old iron is still damn effective on this sort of work. 920 for £100....even on eBay, that should do double that!

Most issues are carb related on these saws but am assuming the working carb from another saw rules this out!! Have you increased the idle speed a bit on the working carb? The impulse line rarely splits on this saw - coming off is more common. Split manifolds are a lot more common. You can often get the saw working and it will die if you hold the engine down and pull the top handle upwards. Compression should be 150 -170psi - higher the better. Worn piston/rings or a scored piston can cause the saw not to run well. Without seeing the saw, it is difficult to tell what is wrong but a 2004 saw with probably a lot of abuse will have its issues. Worth cleaning around the flywheel, the 200 isn't bad but the 150 and 201 are prone to a build up of shyte behind the flywheel causing the saw to stop at low revs because of the friction slowing the engine....the 150 particularly.