spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I would hazard a guess that a damn large percentage of houses out there are below C rated and many will never be able to achieve it and make the investment cost effective. Most older houses won't suit current heat pumps, the best that can be done is LED lighting, double glazing and thicker loft insulation - the rest of it just isn't cost effective. If you look at housing on Rightmove, if you find an EPC rating of C, the house is generally a new build or has some form of solar panels on its roof. The sad thing is that doing this is pissing in the wind as the decimation of the rain forests and the Chinese manufacturing machine bulging out shyte in to the atmosphere are by far the higher causes of global warning. Best save the £££ and fund the Brazilians etc to halt deforestation and to plant loads of trees to turn it back and better not mention overpopulation!!!
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Probably just flooded, dry it out as previously stated and try again.
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150-170psi....if the plug is wet, more fuel will not help!
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You need to check the compression or pull the muffler and look at the piston unless you have enough experience to KNOW it is good. If the compression is OK, pull the plug, turn the saw upside down, pull the saw over hard to clear any unburnt fuel, try heating the plug up on a gas stove or using a plumbers lamp, refit, don't use any choke, open the throttle fully and pull the saw over hard - a bit redneck but it may clear the issue. You have probably missed the first pop of the saw and flooded it when you tried starting it.
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Have you unscrewed No 3 on this diagram and blasted a bit of cleaner through it and down the hole it screws in to? Stihl MS 181 Chainsaw (MS181C) Parts Diagram, Carburetor C1Q-S122B WWW.DIYSPAREPARTS.COM View Stihl MS 181 Chainsaw (MS181C) Parts Diagram , Carburetor C1Q-S122B to easily locate and buy the spares...
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Sounds like it isn't getting enough fuel. Do the easy stuff first - carb gauze strainer is the most likely issue - if it is filled with wood-chip, drain and check the fuel tank as well as cleaning the strainer. Other than that, it may be an air leak or split fuel line.
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Recently fixed the tumble dryer - it had sludge in the bottom of some sort of small open tank at the back so the machine thought the main catchment tank was full and then fitted new batteries in two electric toothbrushes. Why the batteries aren't normal rechargeable ones defies me but fixed the things and should be good for a few years more. I always wonder how much kit gets thrown away because of simple faults. One solution is to triple the price of "Stuff" ....that should put us back to the 1950-70s and should sort it!
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WD40 or white spirit, scotch bright, soak the chain in diesel or white spirit, attach to saw and rev like a good un whilst taking caution to stand to one side in case it frees and comes loose!!!!
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Shuddup Toyah
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Sounds a little more promising. I am not 100% sure but...please stay with me.....some pumps use an angled shaft end and the adjuster moves its end further to the edge of the shaft to increase the shaft throw/movement thus increasing the flow or closer to the middle thus reducing the shaft movement/throw thus........ reducing the flow. I had a 661 in recently and the request was for more oil usually done by bringing the adjuster closer to the edge of the shaft but the adjuster had two positions, high and low and the adjuster had two diameter ends both giving two oiler positions only. My thinking is the MK2 550XP is probably the same....ADW will chime in soon if he isn't delving in to the Downton Abbey box DVD set again....or does he use VHS...maybe even Betamax The grease is probably as you say, just assembly grease from around the oil pinion, clutch bearing etc...not had much new kit in tbh....most are old bangers!
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Joe means a 0.325 pitch 1.3mm gauge rather than the normal 0.325 1.5mm gauge. I did a lot of trials of my own on the Oregon 95VPX 1.3 chain on my 357 and it was 15% faster. You are basically cutting out a much thinner channel with the narrow kerf chain - like comparing a 1" wood chisel to a 1/8th" chisel - the narrower one uses much less of a mallet wallop!! Oregon don't make the VPX anymore but I believe they do an alternative - you also need a ProLite bar to go with it or a suitable equivalent.
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Us professionals have never done that.....glad I have a metal detector Seriously....it isn't good when it happens!!!
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I think the OPs puddle was coming from the oil channel as it should rather than the "breather"as he said. He needs to check the oiler hole in the bar if he hasn't already if it pumps oil but not with the bar on. The most simplest of checks is to point the bar tip at a clean surface and rev the engine. you should get a nice line trace of oil after a second.
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Pic of the bar ID info near the mount would also be good. One of my sayings is that there is always a reason...the hard part is finding it!
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If the bar sprocket has seized, it may be the reason for the difficulty in adjusting the chain tension. Use a bit of WD40 on it until it is free. Is there any blackening or is it getting very hot if you just rev the saw - it may be damaged or have a faulty bearing. When the chain was removed, was it nice and free or a bit tight here and there as it is when the oiler isn't OK? Look at the inside of the clutch cover in the middle of the brake band, is there any damage where the clutch has been rubbing - there is a big "C" moulded in it to stop the clutch spinning off - it goes to shiny metal if the clutch has spun off badly. Other than that - I am assuming the saw is running 0.325 chain on a small Husqvarna bar mount - not the one you use on your 365. You could take a pic of the clutch side of the saw and the cover and post it, we may see something.
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something like this - ILD 5 Wood Burning Stove | ILD stoves UK WWW.COUNTYWOODBURNINGCENTRE.CO.UK Buy ILD 5 Wood Burning Stove - authorised ILD resellers, HETAS approved installers, expert advice. FREE UK delivery.
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That logo is ILD and they have many models that are very similar....yours has a different opening handle then the latest models so perhaps an older model. Something like this: - ILD 8 ECO | Wood stoves WWW.ILDSTOVES.COM ILD 8 ECO - Wood stoves. Clean combustion and high efficiency
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Those 335XPTs were a bit bad as well...just to even things up!!
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I think the guy forgot those first MS201s and MS261s. The first 2013 MS201s used to sit there rumbling when you pulled the throttle and then revved wildly - the fix...lets drill a hole in the exhaust and after Brad Snelling had been modding them for a couple of years, Stihl released a modification kit pretty much doing the same thing....the shame of it!! And the 261....we all know about their cheesy crankshafts which Stihl blamed on sprockets...Mmmm as if. Both manufactures have had their successes, innovation, great models and absolute shyte ones.... You can't just write Stihl or Husqvarna off as "crap".
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Engineers call it an "interference fit" rather than a "clearance fit"....clean, inspect both for manufacturing flash/burrs, add a little grease and see how that goes. May just been put on with a bit of chip lodged in it!
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Just trying to sort the issue. The cover has four points of interference. The bar studs, the brake band (if on), the location spigot and the chain tensioner. So, brake off, release chain tensioner, undo the captivated nuts, give it wobble and it should just come off. If it was on the bench, I would be looking at which part of the cover was tight and looking for a reason. The chain was released so the most likely issue is the spigot locator. Just place the cover on and off and see what is tight. Look for any casting flash on the receiving hole or just grease it if tight.
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In your opinion. I think you may find the 254xp, 346xp, 372xp, 395xp, 572xp and 560xp were well received!!!!! Neither Stihl or Husqvarna are better and not sure a company that has been in existence for 350 years could be described as "crap"!!!
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Not really. Poka Yoke is normally the process of manufacturing something so it can only be fitted one way thus mistake proofing the fitting. Electrical connections often have a key way on one side for just this reason. Any chain adjustment mounted on the chain brake cover will need backing off including many Echo machines manufactured in Japan where the Poka Yoke concept was originally conceived. Was the chain backed off when the cover was removed?
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Did the OP relax the chain tension before taking the cover off? If this isn't done, it can kick the cover and make it bind when removing! I can't believe we are really discussing what is the simplest of operations!
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Three things - on old saws, the cover can be tight on the bar studs - unlikely on a new machine. There really should be no issue with a 6 week old brake band and if 100% it was released....you have avoided this issue. The most likely issue is the location spigot that I have marked on the pic, can get stuck in the receiving hole making the cover tight. Just stick a bit of grease on it before reassembly. The newness of the machine has probably made it tight.
