spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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OK, the fact the thing works and revs out by reducing the air in to the engine which I guess is under no load suggests not enough fuel is getting through at high revs. I also guess if you put the saw in to wood with the strato blocked, there would be no power. SO......you are lacking fuel.....if you turn the L screw out more than you normally would...does it rev out better? This is sounding like your check valve is stuck shut and you are getting no fuel through.....you need to pull the H screw out and spray some carb cleaner down it and see if you get a good spray out of the check valve - easy enough to see.
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You could list a photo. It may help us see what you are dealing with....or confuse us more!
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What happens if you unwind the H screw more and more? Does the saw ever do what it should and the revs die back and go flubby as the engine gets saturated in fuel? Did you check the gauze strainer? They often look good but when you take them out and look at them under a magnifying glass and a backlight, they are blocked.....had MattyFs MS200 in for repair around three times until I found that and learnt that lesson many years ago! Did you lift the metering arm a bit? The primers usually have a bit of air in them from my experience. Are you sure you got the pipes on the correct way round?
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Been looking at that IPL and it looks like the fuel lines push through a large grommet, I am thinking that once the carb is off, that grommet will be under it or there will be a removable plate under the carb as on many Husqvarnas and that should give you access to the fuel line. I can't see a removable plate but I can't see anyone would have to remove the fuel tank/rear handle assembly to change a fuel line. The primer should connect to the carb on one line and the other one just pushes through the grommet to return the fuel to the tank.
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Tiny Tach TT20K...takes a PP3 9v battery so can be changed, works on induction so no wires to connect, fast refresh, comes with a protective rubber sleeve plus wires to clamp the HT lead but haven't needed them in 10 years. Used pretty much daily and are good bits of kit.......and large display....no need to use glasses or a magnifying glass.
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Now you have finished it, I believe you can visit the Queen Nice job BTW!
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You don't need to split any machine I have come across to remove the fuel line. Typically clean the carb area and then remove the carb (if needed) and replacing the line should be relatively easy. The manufacturer usually allows you to change the fuel line without taking the rear handle off.
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No worries, it shouldn't take too long or be that difficult to do.
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That's no good, not local to me.....anyone else?
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I shot three on consecutive days and not seen any more so think I may have done it for this year!
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Very unlikely as you are priming the saw with fuel and the primary compression and vacuum in the crankcase will not effect combustion, it will only effect the amount of air you are drawing through the carb and the pressure up the transfer ports (as pressure and vacuum will leak from the crankcase) and as you have already primed the saw, it should at least fire. A teaspoon of fuel may have just flooded the saw. A burst of brake cleaner, WD40, GT85, carb cleaner etc down the carb with the throttle held open will be more effective.
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I think we have lost the fella.....guess he may have used the Husqvarna dipping oil It is possible he used too much oil around the bore and flooded the saw....easy to do and usually just needs clearing and putting a bit of heat on the plug to help combustion.
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It was the most likely although BMP was pretty accurate in what he said. It sounds like it is fixed now.
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Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
I jokingly put "Next Christmas" on the poll......seems to be the leading the polls now!! My previous company (non arb) was ridiculously bad at meeting release deadlines...hence the view!! -
I am not 100% sure how the primer works on this saw but on the majority of Stihl stuff and others, pressing the purge empties the bulb of fuel in to the tank and as the bulb expands it draws more fuel in to it from the metering section of the carb, on doing this, the diaphragm pushes on the metering arm, actuating the needle valve and more fuel is pulled through. If you are getting air in, your fuel filter is not fully in the fuel or the line is split. The bulb shouldn't pressurize the fuel tank as you are just pumping fuel through from it and back in to it. Are you 100% sure the primer bulb lines are on the correct way? Other issues are the one way check valve in the pump under the purge bubble can seal up and not work properly. With a MityVac, you can connect it to the carb fuel inlet and the purge should cause a vacuum. Connect it to the fuel outlet from the primer and it should produce a pressure. That is my normal fault finding on purge bulbs!
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Sounds like lack of high speed fuel when you open the throttle. The metering arm suggestion would suggest this may solve the issue as should richening the H screw. Worth checking the fuel line, fuel filter, gauze strainer etc
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Funny that, mine came from my fishing kit, used as disgorgers.
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OK, sounds like the piston has survived which is good. An idle that unexpectedly increases is a warning sign to stop and get it checked out by someone that knows what they are doing. The manifold is the rubber bellows affair that joins the carb to the cylinder. On older saws they can split, often around the clamp that joins it on to the cylinder. You really need to remove the carb, muffler and cylinder to get to it for changing. I would check or change the impulse line first - they often get pulled off the connector just under the cylinder base especially if the bar gets compressed in a cut needing a bit of pulling to get it out. I did three 026s in three days like that! Forceps make a good tool for refitting them.
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Here is a tip for anyone running chainsaws and want to minimise downtime......Take off the fuel cap when the tank is near empty and inspect for small bits of chip and shyte of any type. I used to do a lot of courier based work........on sending saws back, I drained any fuel from saws and always used a modified funnel with a very fine gauze in it and most saws left a lot of shyte in it so repeated the fill and empty process until the tank was clean. This fine sawdust tends to break up, pass the fuel filter and end up in the gauze strainer so...if you want to have an easy life.....clean the dust off your fuel cap, keep your tank clean and make sure your fuel container is also clean. I used a piece of stainless gauze stuffed in to the funnel with a ring of copper pipe....it works for me. Easy enough to do a check and hopefully save you a few £££....had two today like this!
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OK, the fast idle is most likely to be an air leak. I have seen fast idles been caused by bits of twig and bark but on your saw, with its age, most likely air leak. Most likely causes, split impulse line (rubber line between the bottom of the cylinder and carb) or the inlet manifold. The impulse is relatively cheap and easy to fit, the manifold less so. The carb settings - set the H & L screw to 1 1/4 turns out from fully in. The saw may have seized, air leaks do that hence why I tend to pressure and vac check all old saws I get in. It will be worth pulling the muffler off and checking the piston unless the saw has loads of compression on pulling it over. You can also get site of the cylinder bore through the spark plug hole, something that makes a quick check much easier. Good luck, ask if you need any further assistance.
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Very good Mr A, he did indeed say that he has fitted a new top end. He may have fitted the piston back to front, seen that before! If not, that blokes compression gauge is a bit iffy....unless it was 120 on one pull
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Small strips of old larch lap fencing are good!
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Should be "too short"....not "to short"......I hate bad English....must be my age!
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BTW....where are you based? And I am not looking for work!!!
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120psi is very low. If the saw had come to me, I would have popped the plug out and shone a light down the hole to look at the exhaust side of the bore. You can remove the exhaust and look at the piston surface through the exhaust port. My reckoning is that you will find some damage on it....scoring and black carbon. If you lift the saw with the starter handle, does the saw fall relatively freely to earth or does it fall and stop for a few seconds on each compression stroke? Old saws need a pressure and vacuum test, this ensures the LOWER crankcase is sealed by the rubber components and gaskets. The COMPRESSION test shows you secondary compression and gives you an indication on the state of the cylinder, piston and ring. You firstly need to know you have good secondary compression which means the top end is good, the pressure and vac test is to ensure the machine runs correctly and won't seize with use. I have seen saws with seals missing still fire and run......badly!
