spudulike

Full chisel is faster if sharp but is less forgiving as once that sharp point has gone - they are also harder to sharpen if abused and the point has really gone, best to keep this type of chain sharp by reguler filing. Semi chisel is more forgiving but slower, better in dirty wood and is generally easier to sharpen and will keep it's edge longer. I usually use Stihl RSC full chisel but have a grinder.......and know how to use it:thumbup:

Compromise agreements often state that you won't be able to work in the same trade for a specified time limit - don't know what your future plans are but be aware of this and see it coming - it is usually used to clear a person out of a company and have no client poaching soon after! Your company will have given you a figure that they think will give the offer a bit of interest - know your rights and if tempted, go in at say £5k or £10k and be prepared to take less - better than taking the first offer. £1K may seem like a lot of dosh but you can burn through that pretty quickly looking for work.

You should have measured the compression before stripdown, anything over 145psi would be fine. Now it is apart, it is much more difficult to analyse if anything is wrong. One thing you can do is check the ring ends and see if the ends are much thinner than the middle of the ring showing wear. I would personally fit a quality new piston - Meteor are a favourite of mine. Is there much carbon in the exhaust port - this would stifle the engine! A muffler mod is relatively easy, 70% of the exhaust port area muffler opening will do. Porting is another subject, if you have no experience, it is just as easy to mess it up in a very expensive way - do you know what you are doing? The 21 has a clam engine and therefore you can't easily adjust the squish - not a great machine to tune! Cleaning the carb and a decent tach tune should help.

I had the same - a guy purchased a Husky 266 from me through ebay and wanted a larger saw as well, I showed him images and he sent cash through the post. Lucky I was brought up well and am honest in what I do! I purchased a coat on ebay for the wife, paid for it and nothing arrived after two weeks, no mail, so pulled the money back from paypal - YES, YOU CAN DO THAT IF YOU DONT TRANSFER ITFROM PAYPAL TO YOUR BANK!!!! A week later it arrived so I re-paid the seller after giving her a lesson on why she souldn't run her sales like she was! In life there are givers and takers......................

From a manufacturers perspective, I would say that they have deemed top handled saws to be more dangerous than a rear handle design (think we would all agree). As a manufacturer, they would want to be seen to put in place a policy that shows they have taken all precautions that would be deemmed fair and reasonable so that is why they ask for tickets and have a generic statement " For sale only to accredited, professional tree surgeons." This statement is probably a European statement and MAY cover many countries hence it being loose or possibley they have designed it to cover any possible change in what current H&S legislation will call climbing certificates. It is basically their insurance policy if someone injures themselves after purchasing one of their saws - it is them as a manufacturer saying - "Hey lads, we manufacture some dangerous kit, if you have been trained on it, we expect you to use it safely, if you haven't had training - sod off, we don't want your accident to blemish our company name - go buy a saw off eBay". I don't work for either Stihl or Husky but do work for a German manufacturer!

How did the scam work, usually you either use cash on collection or do it all via paypal - £2.5k and I would go with a big mate and a length of 2X2 just in case - paypal is insured! Was it a deal done outside paypal? Not had too many problems myself - one time waster who had been watching Axemen and bid on a big saw I was selling then pulled out - apart from that, nothing too bad!

Pretty simple, the blockage will either be in the pickup in the tank, in the pump or in the feed in to the bar groove. Two T27 bolts hold the pump on and is easy to do once the pump is removed.

Probably a carb problem, worth checking the tank breather located in the fuel cap or just loosen the cap and see if the saw runs OK. Check the fuel pipe and filter and if these are OK then its time to find the carb and give it a clean and possible new carb kit. You can try turning both the carb H&L screws all the way in and then undo 1 turn and reset the idle, this may get it going. Not the easiest saw to work on

I thought that may be the case - a manufacturer will try to use standard components whereever possible and I have had a fair few 020 and MS200Ts appart and always looked very similar appart from the transfer differences. The piston is universal. I think pleasant was going on the part code differences but Stihl often have the same parts but just change the last number by one for each saw type.

the part code for one side of the crankcase: - 020T - 1129 020 2600 MS200T - 1129 020 2601 The other 020T - 1129 020 2900 MS200T 1129 020 2903 I have to say that I thought both barrels would work but have never tried it although they look very similar with the MS200T having a splitter running down each transfer port as the only obvious visual difference. I am not disputing your statement but have you actually tried it and what are the differences as I know I have a MS200T that may need a new cylinder and one option was one off a 020T......until I read this:thumbdown:

Yes there is, it is a small hole on the top of the saw and is next to the clutch cover about 2 inches behind the front handle mount.

There are two or three other live threads covering this subject, better take a look at these:thumbup:

Mmm - I took the image an enhanced it, looks scored and also looks like the plate has been torn off on a few places - not good:thumbdown: The 020 or MS200 cylinder will fit, best be is ebay or someone on here, don't think I have a suitable spare but will have a look.

Yup - nice easy job, 50:1 fuel to oil with Stihl two stroke oil, 25:1 is for old time saws using old time oil!

No Worries - at 13,500 you are fine and reckon that if you look at the plug directly after a long hard cut, it will be right. You have a nice clean airfilter on the saw I hope? If it isn't, clean it and re-tach. Worth checking the plug type as well, may be the wrong temp type.

There are two thoughts on this, one is to abuse the saw and rev the knackers off it and the other to take it easy for the first few tankfulls. I am old school, I see the roughness of a honed bore, the rings needing to bed it, the machining marks on the piston smoothing down and would take it easy for the first few tanks - rev up to full tilt but don't do any full bore cuts for minutes at a time for the first few hours use until some of the roughness of those engine components are a little run in. This will ensure you dont get too much heat in the engine until it is ready for it.

I have never found an aftermarket P&C kit for an MS200/020, what is wrong with the original cylinder - a good clean and a new QUALITY piston may sort it.

If you are doing what we used to call a "plug chop" in my biking days, you need to go in to a big cut and then shut the saw down quickly without it idleing and then look at the plug colour, a white coffee colour on the end and central electrode is good - black is rich, grey is hot and white is lean. To set the L screw, start the saw, let it run for a few mins, turn the L screw in and the saw will race and then strart to die, undo the screw past the peak in fast idle and around 1/4 turn past the saw will sound a little poppy, I leave it there and adjust the idle using the idle screw and then see if it picks up OK. The H screw should then be set to around 13,000 on a working saw or damn near 14,000 if your saw is a "boys toy". Do a few big cuts and see what the plug colour is, the only saw I really keep an eye on is the ported 346 and this is coffee colour on 14,500rpm:thumbup: If you get stuck, bring it round when we meet next. The metering arm height will make a difference on the H setting.

Thats right, the earlier carbs accelerator pumps were brass and wear, letting air in to the metering section, usual symptoms ar unstable idle and uneven midrange. The later carbs had stainless pumps and sorted the problem....or at least we think so. There is a fix but it isn't an easy one so don't ask:001_rolleyes: It is almost impossible to get to the pump!

The impulse line will go from the base of the cylinder in to the pumping section of the carb or be internal to the carb boot (small through hole) and will marry with a small impulse hole on the carb. If it is a breather, it will be plugged in to the top of the fuel tank and possibly have a one way or two way filter in the end of it. Can't find any info on the 49:thumbdown: If you get stuck, stick a photo up on this thread.

Weak clutch springs - spin off the clutch and fit new ones, the ting ting noise is the clutch shoes catching the sprocket.

:sneaky2:Naughty Naughty:001_rolleyes: Been cleaning up the poorly MS200T today - guess which part I have cleaned: -