spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Only ever seen one plug that came out of a saw that needed changing - worn electrodes - they normally last for many years!
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MS200t - bogging - compression measured and found the plug loose:001_rolleyes: 150psi, plug back in tight, bogging less but still a bit iffy....technical term that one:thumbup: Will strip, clean, do all the normal checks for seal integrity etc, clean the carb and should see good use again.
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Yes, that will be typical but what do they know:001_rolleyes:
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Gardenkit is right - chain creep at idle with a properly tensioned chain and idle speed is down to clutch springs almost all the time and a tight needle bearing or string/crap around the bearing/shaft rarely. You usually get that annoying tinging noise as well Grrrrr:lol:
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Thanks Barrie - yup, my description is the gospel according to Spud, abandon all who deviate from it as your pistons will fry:thumbdown:
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I usually tune 1K below giving some margin for changes in the fuel system. The only exception are hot saws that get tuned to thrash - the plug does the talking!
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The tech in all of this is you are using your carb settings as a rev limiter, when the saw gets up to near max revs, you want the carb to over fuel the engine and cause it to only fire every other stroke, hence the term "FOUR STROKE":thumbup: When you cut wood, the saw is under power and the four stroking clears and produces power. It sounds like a flubbing noise or burbling, trouble is on the later saws is that they rev so damn high and also when fitted with blue limited coils, without a tach, they are damn difficult to tune. The tach will allow you to tune the saw to a known level -I am usually 500 - 1000rpm down when I tune by ear, this equates to chain speed and a slower cut. Refresh should be 0.5 sec or lower, 1 sec refresh is far too slow, there is a real trick to getting the tune correct on a limited coil machine - ask Terry Tibbs how his 372 is after I reset the carb from fresh:thumbup:
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Not sure by what you mean "Tuned from new", manufacturers usually tune to lower than the standard levels when the machine is new. Personally I would avoid any prolonged cuts like cutting large rings and would allow the saw to idle to let it cool between mid size cuts. If you must do large cuts, do them in two shorter stints. Keep the chain sharp to make the saw cut better and would personally run a 40:1 mix but that is just me being careful. Once you have run 20-30 tankfuls, you can get your dealer to retune for higher revs
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I would say that the design and shape of the closed port lends itself to push new fuel vapour in to the combustion chamber and expel the exhaust gases, the twin port design allows for better control of the fuel vapour and stops fuel stacking in the transfers - the MS200 has a divider in the transfer port whereas the 020T doesn't. The theory is that you are trying to push out the burnt exhaust gases with new fuel vapour and it is how efficiently you can do this. If you look at the top of the transfer and the shape of it, you will see why they are shaped and how they do this. I don't know if it increases the primary compression but have recently read that the crank covers on the 357 were designed to do this giving it more power than the 359 so possibly true.
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Right - by open port, we are talking transfer ports, the ones that move fuel vapour from the crank case to the combustion chamber. An open port will look like an open channel up both sides of the cylinder 90 degs from the inlet and exhaust ports. A closed transfer port will have a hole or holes near the base of the cylinder and a hole or holes further up the cylinder and the channel will be covered by the inner wall of the cylinder. Very generally, closed port is found on pro saws and open on semi pro or homeowner. There are exceptions - the MS200 has open ports. A closed port will lower the amount of play between the bore and piston and give longer life....allegedly! Pistons can also have closed or open ports/sides. The open ports/sides allow for more fuel vapour to be transfered and would say it makes the saw more powerful but the 346 and 357 have closed sides!! You will be able to see some examples if you scroll through this thread - most of the pics will have closed ports.
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Always worth doing, only seen one bore that had worked through the plate in to the aluminium and that was down to ingress of crap through the air filter. If it has 145psi+ all is good, you can take it down and see how good the bore to piston clearance is and the condition of the parts but it will put a bit of punch back in a tired saw. Just need to endsure the crankshaft bearings are good and the carb etc are all servicable.
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Done many now and personally always prefer to salvage an OEM cylinder and use a quality grade piston than using aftermarket P&Cs. I am a bit meticulous in what I do and how I do it - there will be no transfer left when I have cleaned a bore of transfer aluminium but you are right that the bore needs to be 100% clear of residual aluminium otherwise you will do another ring and piston.
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Sorry, Not familiar with this saw, it is worth fixing if the saw will be worth more either in sentimental value or £££ value after the work has been done.
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Been stripping down a family heirloom today, a Husky Rancher 50. Nice solid old machine - covered in grime but is looking good now. It passed the pressure check and failed the vac check, thought it was the oil pump side crank seal but then found the leak was on the carb boot so will fit a new one and retest. Looks a bit cleaner on the second shot doesnt it:thumbup:
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The needle had a ridge/groove/line/deformation in it caused by the wear on the fuel inlet hole or pressure of the metering arm spring on the needle. I think having it stripped and in the US cleaner allowed it to swell a little and when re-assembled, it ran fine but have been there before so will fit the new kit and reckon it will be 100% after that. I didn't check my other carb but have learn't yet another trick - without a magnifying glass, I wouldn't have noticed it but the eyesight isn't what it used to be:001_rolleyes: It has been a right bugger to fix - never had a carb like it, they usually throw in the towel and work when I pull them apart.
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Think the red haze has lifted - tried another carb off a 029 after trying the one off another 390 and it fired and runs perfectly, don't know what the odds are on having two carbs showing exactly the same fault:001_rolleyes: I ultrasonically cleaned the carb and it now runs fine, the needle valve has a ridge around it and reckon it is either sticking closed or seeping fuel through that didn't show when I pressure and vac tested the carb. Anyway - I have recommended fitting a new carb kit and think the saw will have a new lease of life now. Just glad my 100% fix rate is intact again:thumbup:
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Not sure I followed the part number bit but there is usually a date code on the plastic and metal parts which hopefully will match the rest of the saw and also a part number beginning 501,503,507 etc and is in the format 503 xx xx-xx IPLs here http://www.h-machine.jp/part_list/husqvarna/254_1998.pdf http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=254%20ipl&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFkQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHusqvarna_Parts_Manuals%2FI8700007.pdf&ei=Y90bT5m8HczG8QPAmYyoCw&usg=AFQjCNGz2CWqh6PVVQ4XavnRuOBQwOFdVA http://www.jonsered.ws/254.pdf http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20254.pdf Hopefully one of these will have your cover - sorry, I don't have a spare cover!
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Oh I just wish.....have swapped the fuel line and pressure tested the old one and the impulse line - yes, I plugged the pipe one end and put the gauge on the other and gave it a good stretch and waggle - Grrrrrrrr still not right. I am wondering if this saw has an air leak that only shows when running - baffling.
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I owned and used a 254 for a couple of years, it had the air injection side cover but no decomp and it has a plastic side cover. Currently got one for sale on the shelf and it to has a plastic cover but has a couple of tabs on the side opposite the bar mount to locate it that the earlier one didnt. My thinking it is a very early side cover on a later model 254. Get the part number off the cover and search for it - that should help. Good saws:thumbup:
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Yes - early model and a pig - holds vacuum and pressure, have checked the breather, the fuel and impulse lines, fuel filters, have cleaned the carb, tried another carb, tried another coil, checked the flywheel key, checked the compression, checked the state of the piston and the thing just wont idle or hold a steady speed, just revs up and dies then fast idle then dies - looks like the carb isn't getting a steady supply of fuel but this one almost has me beat. Got an 029 Stihl and will swap parts with this as the spare parts from the 390 I have give the same faults - this one is a pig:thumbdown:
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The carb was pushed in to the Impulse line so the air was leaking through the impulse circuit and evacuating through the needle valve in to the bore of the carb - on the 048 it has a separate impulse line as I am sure you know and can plug it or just use the carb, fortunately on this one I took the easy option and used the carb to seal the impulse which showed the leak - vac and pressure testing the carb would have shown the fault also!
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No worries, glad it worked out - possible that someone plugged the impulse to do a vac test then forgot to unplug it and connect it. Anyway, it runs but who is "Rickover", is he a mate:001_rolleyes:
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It is still there, just waiting:thumbup:
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Very rough rule of thumb is the bar should be 1/3 of the engine size or under so a 60cc will be 20" or under, this rule gives a bar size that will work for the saw and going under by an inch or two will make it faster and easier to handle. The 346XP is best with a 15" - perfect balance and speed, no knowledge of the 560 yet but would strongly suspect a 18" would be the perfect choice.
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Decent Saw, worth buying it!
