spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Pretty much the same as Barrie, I have a set procedure on setting up the L screw and that is winding it in until the saw races and then backing it out until you hear the saw have a slight pop in its exhaust note and falls back to a reasonable idle, I then adjust the LA and see how it revs from idle to flat out and how the saw responds to blipping the throttle. You can find smaller saws are very fussy on the L screw where larger ones are not, small saws can bog a bit if the L screw is a bit lean so trying it on a bit of good timber can help. When cold, some saws take around 30 secs to stop bogging from idle and then work fine when warm - the 345, 346, 350 Husky range are usuall candidates for this but the Stihl 026/260 are generally OK. As Barrie says - it is worth checking the high and low speeds if the L screw is adjusted, on some carbs, adjusting the L screw can effect the H setting - I have had this on a MS260.
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Sounds like that the problems that they talk about will be caused by leaving fuel in the machine that will degrade over a period of time - I have seen damage caused to fuel lines and have cleaned out many carbs that have had problems with gunk in them. I am guessing the pro user regularly using his machines will have less problems than the home user leaving the saw in his shed until the next season. The answer will be to run the carb and tank clear of fuel if left standing or using a fuel like Aspen.
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I used to grab my muffler modded 345 whenever there is wood in the offering but that hasn't been out in a while now - it is a great saw and just keeps going and sounds fab - not sure the village I live in agrees:thumbup:
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Got a vid done at long last, bare in mind that the lump of wood I am cutting is two year seasoned oak and the second cut was full bar length on a bit of wood that just wouldn't stay still , I think it shows what the saw can do in hard wood.
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If the fuel is getting on to the airfilter it may be blow back of fuel - the carbs when cracked open blast fuel in to the choke of the carb and that can sometimes find itself being blown backwards out of the carb - that is the most likely suggestion. There is a fuel tank breather and that plugs in to the side of the filter mount - may be worth checking that as well but I would clean it and see if you can work out where it is coming from.
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Personally I use normal unleaded but am not cutting every day, typically every few weekends in the winter. It is very difficult to say if any of the carb problems I have seen have in anyway been caused by the cheaper fuel or not. I have seen many problems been caused by hard use on old fuel mix and fuel line failure through fuel being left in the tank but that is about it. Did they say what sort of problems the carbs are having?
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Been out again with my 346XP - I don't know what it is but the saw always brings a smile to my face when I use it - mine is runnig hot and tuned but it is fine balanced, light and has very good AV. The 357 is a bigger version of the 346, really depends what sort of work you do in the main, the 357 has more go than the standard 346 but weighs more. 346 is good with a 15" bar, I guess if you are happier with an 18" then the 357 may be a better choice... No experience of the 560, I am guessing there will be the normal spat of problems like any new offering - I am not liking the thought of microprocessor controls on a saw - sounds overcomplicated and US EPA law driven to me. Time will tell!
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Good points - I do my taching 1/2 mile down the road in the middle of nowhere - get some strange looks but who cares - run the saw up to hot and then tach to around 13,000rpm - the manufactures max is 14,000 but unless you really care about that little extra chain speed or have spent time tuning the thing then the safety margin is worth having. Next thing is to open up that muffler, bring the squish down and open up those ports and tune to 14,000.................
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Agree 100%
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Reckon you need to turn your camera to daylight setting rather than indoor as the pic has a blue hue about it:thumbup:
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You are lucky - there is a bag of bits on ebay at over £100 with a day left to go at the mo:confused1:
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Sometimes doing the job for someone is the easier option - got to think about PPE and the friends abillity as well as their mechanical knowledge!
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Personally would look at a 020T rather than some low cost Chinese poop - if you are expecting anything like a MS200T from China, forget it:thumbdown: What you looking at spending? May be able to do a bitsa from my workshop - got some 020Ts and a couple of 020AVs.
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Chainsaw and scrap metal thefts in Biggleswade On 2/3 January
spudulike replied to sylvaarb's topic in General chat
No idea but these two blokes were the biggest guys I have seen - one was 6'6" and the other 6'8" and were as strong as an ox - made me look short and I am 6'2":lol: They had spent their time in South Africa but got out in the early 80s when I met them - had a good story about a cattle truck and an open top sports car but thats another story and off topic:blushing: -
Whats happened to the original poster - has the saw started yet?
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The vertical lines are signs of seizure, this generally leaves a residue of aluminium on the bore of the cylinder just above and below the exhaust port -this MUST be removed if it is present. Get us some photos of the exhaust port and the piston - if the bore is clean, it is possible the damage has been caused by carbon falling in to the cylinder from the exhaust port. Has anyone tried to lock the piston in place by inserting something like a screwdriver in to the exhaust port:001_rolleyes:
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Chainsaw and scrap metal thefts in Biggleswade On 2/3 January
spudulike replied to sylvaarb's topic in General chat
I knew a could of South African farmers that took lead shot out of shotgun cartridges and loaded them with rock salt.......would that do it:thumbup: -
My exploits with one of these 020AVS is here - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-14.html This one had a needle whose plating had started to degrade and this caused the needle valve to stop sealing. Your problems sound like fuel starvation, the starting on choke and not running off it, the rising in revs like it is running out of fuel etc, all signs that the carb has a blockage. The bad news is that these saws are not the easiest to work on but if you have some decent skills, you should be ok. Have you tried turning the L screw 1/4 turn anti clockwise? possibly worth trying but if it works, it could be masking an air leak issue. The other easy thing worth trying is to run the saw with the fuel cap loose and see if it is better as it may be the breather in the fuel cap is plugged - the one I was working on was! Good luck
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Chainsaw and scrap metal thefts in Biggleswade On 2/3 January
spudulike replied to sylvaarb's topic in General chat
You are not far from me, sorry to hear that you have been turned over, will look out for the saws and let you know if they pop up, not good. I know various local villages have had their telephone cable thieved - I wonder who could be doing such a thing:001_rolleyes: Hope you get it back or at least a fast settlement. -
If the saw was running but the stop switch wasn't working, I find it difficult to believe that the coil could be faulty - they normally die completely or you get issues when the saw warms up as the coil will warm up and start breaking down. Have you checked the coil to make sure it is a nice shiny one - the cut out is a push on connector so this is unlikely to break as well - if it is new, they may have got the gap wrong - that may cause these issues!
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Pretty much right - at the front of the handle there are two wires, one goes to earth from the handle and the other to the coil. The switch assembly is behind the rotary orange choke lever but 9 times out of 10 it is just a broken earth wire or one of the wires has come off the connector - a relatively easy and cheap repair. The issues you mention may be a number of carb problems, it is possible that a simple tune will resolve the issues but could be a number of other less simple to fix ones. If you get stuck, I am happy to take a look at it - choice is yours but guess the original dealer should try to put it right first.
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The front edge of the piston skirt makes no difference to the port timing, sometimes the crankcase gasket can wear a groove in the piston otherwise I don't know why it should have broken, a loose bearing or busted big end may smack the sides of the skirt but not in the centre. Get us some photos if you can as it will tell a thousand tales. I am hoping the exhaust side of the piston was silver grey and smooth - no vertical scoring? The metering arm is sited under the diaphragm (under the four screw cover) in the carb - just tweak it away from the carb body by 0.2mm - (Very slightly) with a small screwdriver - it may help, had a couple of carbs have sticky needles after rebuild and this cured them. Good luck
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For £200 you would need to beat me to it:lol:
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The timing parts of the piston are the top of the exhaust side and bottom on the inlet side - the inlet side determines inlet duration, the exhaust side determines high revs plus also has an effect on compression. Which part is missing and have you tried holding the throttle wide open with the choke on? Sounds more like the height of the metering needle arm needs to be raised slightly. The piston could have sustained a crack and parts just breaking off are rare - have you inspected it fully - could it have contacted the flywheel, are your big,small and crank bearings all ok?
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These are the ones I have in the collection - got to check em out first! http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-husqvarna-280s.html http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-husqvarna-480cd.html Both look in good nick!
