spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The saw should be fueled so the piston is wet and the saw put on full choke then clicked back to the next "fast idle" position then give it as many pulls as it takes to get to the maximum reading. 5-6 pulls is normal, first will give around 100psi, the second 130psi, the third 140, fourth 150 and then maybe another 5psi in 2-3 pulls. 150psi is typical for the saw - some gauges will read different readings depending on how they are constructed - I have three gauges:001_rolleyes:
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You worry me:001_rolleyes: The flywheel to coil gap should be set with a business card.....loosen up the coil mounting bolts, pull it away from the flywheel, slide a business card between the flywheel and coil, turn the flywheel round so the magnets are next to the coil, let the coil be pulled forward on to the flywheel and do up the bolts tightly - slide the card out by rotating the flywheel:thumbup: The flywheel sould not contact the coil.
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Stihl MS390 - strange saws to work on, the top cover is sort of part of the handle assembly and airbox and is a right pig to remove:thumbdown: This came in with a non existent idle and a bogging rev, cleaned the carb, checked the metering arm height, the needle valve, the diaphragm and gauze filter. Went on to check the fuel line, the filter, breather etc. I then pressure and vac checked it and it has a bit of an air leak and failed both so pulled off the clutch and oiler pinion to check the crank seal that was fine so have had to get that dreaded top cover off as below - next check is a pressure check again now I have access to the carb boot and impulse line.
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One point, you said you have good vacuum, that would imply a vac test has been done and that would show up an impulse line problem hence me always banging on about vac and pressure testing. My money will be on the impulse line being split and that would stop fuel being pumped in to the carb - sound familier! A £3.75 part and relatively easy fix!
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Have you checked the fuel filter, has the fuel line got a hole in it and finally, is the impulse line blocked or leaking? Sometimes the airfilter choke mechanism can play up on the 026 range - make sure your choke lever is actually closing the choke properly. Personally I always try to avoid thowing new parts at saws and try to get to teh route cause - saves wasting my hard earnt or more importantly. others hard earnt:thumbup:
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Been called worse in my time:lol:
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Sorry:blushing:
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Using the gunsons Hi gauge with the blue packaging, anything over 135psi but an engine in good all round condition should pull 150psi and anything 160psi - 170 is very good. A decent 026 will pull 150psi with this gauge - my 346xp will pull 170psi A saw should be fueled and cold when testing - the saw can be on fast idle and will need 3-5 pulls to get a measurement - 100psi on the first pull is decent. A saw will run at 120psi but will be pretty crap all round. I was once told that a 254 I had purchased had good compression - it only had 1/2 a piston ring and fell to earth like a stone when doing the poor mans comp check:001_rolleyes:
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I've been using seasoned Oak to test my saws, mainly because I have a reasonably good selection of it. Bad news on the 357 - the crank bearing on the flywheel side is a bit shot, got a nasty noise from it so it looks like a bigger job now and I have got a few saws lined up for repair now so I will get the parts on order and fit it in when ready - has good compression though - 160psi with a new ring and standard gasket. Reckon 170 - 180psi when done:thumbup:
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Comment ca va.... The bogging could be so many things - firstly poor compression can lead to low power. Other reasons can be fuel related - fuel filter clogged, fuel pipe softening, carb pumping sectiongauze filter clogged, worn pumping gasket, holed diaphragm, gummed up jets, dirty plug/air filter, badly adjusted carb, air leak..................and on and on - may even be heavy carbon deposits in the exhaust port. If you want it looked at, PM me and I will give you an idea of costs.
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If the oiler is doing it's job and the length of the bar isn't a bit silly then the sprocket should get oiled by the bar/chain oil. I have had similar problems but generally when the sprocket tip is buried in the cut. I grease any bar that I have serviced - habit rather than for any other reason but also make sure there is no clag in the sprocket and that it turns freely.
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As we speak... Just need to run it up to make sure all is good before doing it, what sort of wood is that you are cutting?
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If you take a picture of the spring fitted or off, we can give it a look and see if we have one that looks the same. I have made them before but is easier to fabricate one out of a similar spring!
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Got a 357XP EPA on my bench, it is owned by me and I am getting strange urges to get the dremmel out again and port it - I think it may be time:thumbup:
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I gather fuel can go stale or off but the biggest cause of failure is the typical having a go at a large lump of wood using fuel oil mix that has been left in the saw for a few months. The piston gets too hot and melts on to the cylinder. Always use at least 50:1 mix fuel to oil, always mix enough fuel for only a few days and don't use it if over 30 days old - stick it in your mower. Lastly, drain the fuel out of your saws if you are leaving them on the shelf for a while - the fuel will rot your fuel pipes if left in the saw.
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Yup - love it, it also makes some interesting noises if you hold it on mid revs as well - sort of snarls a bit:thumbup: TZ250 - pro am racing - those were the days!
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Sounds wrong to me, the bar should flick out oil when the saw is revved flat out. Firstly, remove the bar and then start the saw and see if you get oil coming out of the oil channel on the bar mount that sits alongside the bar, if you do, the blockage is in the hole that allows oil from the saw oil channel flow in to the channel between the bar rails. The hole is a small one near the edge of the bar where the chain sits and around 2-3" from the base of the bar. If there is no oil coming from the saw - don't believe this is so as you are consuming oil, you may need to strip the oiler down or flush the tank but let us know what you find.
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Firstly I would fix the saw, get it running sweetly and then after testing it, would tear it down and do the work, there is little point in porting a saw and doing work on the muffler etc without it running well first - I would need to take it step by step. I am well up on 346, 345, 350, 357 models and know their little issues:thumbup: Perhaps the thing to do is to send it in and lets get it running, discuss costs and then see if porting is still viable. I am taking it that your piston and cylinder are in good shape - I would do a health check on the saw before doing any tuning - just makes sense to me to do it this way!
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The MS200T has an outboard sprocket:001_rolleyes: There is always one, I know.................
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Mine was tuned as a project saw and to show what is possible - to get the full benefit out of a modern saw you really need to open up the exhaust a bit to get it breathing - mine was to the maximum on port size and opening the muffler up but you could open it up to less. The 346 has no internal baffles in the exhaust. I still have a little to go on the squish if I wanted -running at 0.65mm and reckon I can take that down to 0.5mm and that would up the compression another 5-10 psi but am running at 170psi at the mo so not too shabby. This isn't a work saw although I now tend to grab it as a favourite if there is free wood about. Youo are right about the willingness to rev -no lag, no messing about, a ring ting ting to a screaming wail in a nano second:thumbup:
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Yup - fine, they always ring if there is any delay - wife always says "that is fine" to them:001_rolleyes:
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Sounds a bit like that to me - just spent time on a Jonsered 625 with a blocked breather - the saw would fire and run, then go boggy and then die - was driving me mad.
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Had the 048 that I sold a week ago back as it had started bogging and the owner said that there was some marking on the piston. I pressure and Vac tested it, seemed OK but wasn't perfect:confused1: Took off the cylinder, the piston score was more of a slight abrasion, took it off with a light rub of finishing paper and gave the area around the exhaust port a light rub to finish the area that had caused the marks on the piston but it looked pretty fine to me. Reassembled and again, the vac and pressure wasnt 100% but noticed the air was leaking out of the carb, turned out to be a leaking needle valve. A bit of a strip and clean and all was good:thumbup: I really hate it if there is an issue with any saw I sell - Grrrrrrr
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Thanks Andy - Aerial Arrow, BSA Bantam - my brother was the British Bike enthusiast so know the bikes and seen a few in my time:thumbup: I am happy to do the Spud tune on your saw as I have learnt on mine and know it works, the only thing you need to tell me is if it is 50cc and if it has a black or blue coil. If the coil is a blue one, we will need to lose it and get a black one! The saw is blinding and bloody loud but I love it:thumbup:
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If the original piston had seized then ALL the aliminium transfer has to be removed from the bore, this isn't a simple job to do correctly but if it is done well, it will give you a better repair than using an aftermarket P&C kit. If the transfer was left on the bore, you will have killed the rings and possibly scored the new piston - pop off the muffler and take a look. As Barrie said - have you found the original cause of failure, the 357 usually suffers air leaks around the carb boot and especially around the impulse connector on the inlet boot. Has the inlet boot got the better metal retaining clip around it or the plastic one - the metal one is better and was a recall fitment. If it is the EPA model, the auto decomp valve is the devil incarnate and should be disposed of and replaced with the standard one and the crank valve sealed. Others may disagree but they don't know squat:thumbup:
